Serpent 811E Buggy Thread
#4906
#4907
Hello Everyone,
I got through pages 1- 101 of this thread. I am thinking of getting one of these cars, but I am thinking to get the RTR one or build the Cobra BE 2.0 Kit? Are there any real differences in the kit? I have had on road cars before but this would be my first off road car.
Thanks,
JM
I got through pages 1- 101 of this thread. I am thinking of getting one of these cars, but I am thinking to get the RTR one or build the Cobra BE 2.0 Kit? Are there any real differences in the kit? I have had on road cars before but this would be my first off road car.
Thanks,
JM
#4908
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 115
Hello Everyone,
I got through pages 1- 101 of this thread. I am thinking of getting one of these cars, but I am thinking to get the RTR one or build the Cobra BE 2.0 Kit? Are there any real differences in the kit? I have had on road cars before but this would be my first off road car.
Thanks,
JM
I got through pages 1- 101 of this thread. I am thinking of getting one of these cars, but I am thinking to get the RTR one or build the Cobra BE 2.0 Kit? Are there any real differences in the kit? I have had on road cars before but this would be my first off road car.
Thanks,
JM
#4909
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 980
From: Orlando, Fl
From what I understand the kit has a lot more adjustibility our of the box. On the kit the kickup, rear toe, and antisquat are all adjustable and I do not think they are on the rtr. Also, the kit has threaded shocks and I do not think the rtr does. I would suggest the kit as it will be a little nicer chassis overall.
#4910
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 88
From: Canberra Aus
From what I understand the kit has a lot more adjustibility our of the box. On the kit the kickup, rear toe, and antisquat are all adjustable and I do not think they are on the rtr. Also, the kit has threaded shocks and I do not think the rtr does. I would suggest the kit as it will be a little nicer chassis overall.
#4911
Hello Everyone,
I got through pages 1- 101 of this thread. I am thinking of getting one of these cars, but I am thinking to get the RTR one or build the Cobra BE 2.0 Kit? Are there any real differences in the kit? I have had on road cars before but this would be my first off road car.
Thanks,
JM
I got through pages 1- 101 of this thread. I am thinking of getting one of these cars, but I am thinking to get the RTR one or build the Cobra BE 2.0 Kit? Are there any real differences in the kit? I have had on road cars before but this would be my first off road car.
Thanks,
JM
#4912
I know I am a little behind. I went to Hobbyplex in Omaha for their Byron's Heartland Challenge this past weekend. This was the first time I had been to Hobbyplex, and it is a very nice facility. There were a total of 30 EBuggies, and everyone was within about a lap and half from first to worse, so very close competition. I qualified 21st, so 9th in the B Main. I drove around the first corner wreck which put me up to 6th. A few laps later, I caught and passed a guy for 5th, stayed there for most of the main. With about 3-4 minutes to go in the 10 minute main, 3rd and 4th wrecked which moved me up to 3rd. I had a freight train back to 7th and then the leader behind us for a couple of laps. I caught a pipe too close and flipped over, which put me back to 6th. I was able to get 5th back 2 laps later, and finished 5th. Not bad, considering I was the ONLY Serpent there, lots of Kyoshos. Car was good, traction was consistent, no real big jumps, and lots of places to put the power down. This was one of the cleanest race weekends I have been a part of, and I have been racing for 20 years. Cudos to all the other racers and Hobbyplex for putting on a great event.
#4913
I believe I run 553 on my diffs. Not 100% sure (not rebuilt in a while).
I just got new 90C batteries; car is MUCH quicker. Pulls like crazy. I now have a problem the car lifts it front wheels and the tires balloon very badly. Like disks so thin.
At the same time the car is practically pulling wheelies along the full straight.
Normally I would think I need thicker oil in the center diff to push more power to the rear wheels.
But... I'm pulling wheelies already so it is not like they are not getting enough power...
Any tips on tuning?
I just got new 90C batteries; car is MUCH quicker. Pulls like crazy. I now have a problem the car lifts it front wheels and the tires balloon very badly. Like disks so thin.
At the same time the car is practically pulling wheelies along the full straight.
Normally I would think I need thicker oil in the center diff to push more power to the rear wheels.
But... I'm pulling wheelies already so it is not like they are not getting enough power...
Any tips on tuning?
#4915
I know that most of u are probably racers but I'm keen to hear if anyone has recorded top speed runs and if so, what is the setup (motor, esc, batt)?
I'm also interested in hearing similar feedback on the RTR version?
I'm also interested in hearing similar feedback on the RTR version?
#4916
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,850
Most people doing straight line top speed runs use a GT8 platform, which is already set up for onroad racing. Sits lower, onroad oriented suspension, full enclosed body, etc. There 's a few threads kicking around in the electric onroad section on these. Most people use an Ofna GT8 car, as they are dirt cheap and good enough for straight line runs. An offroad buggy wouldn't make a good top speed vehicle, too much aerodynamic drag on the exposed shocks/shock towers, tires, and rear wing.
#4917
Tech Adept
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 214
From: Davao
Hey guys. Been away for so long from racing rc (been busy with scale crawling for a good while) but a new outdoor track just got built up near my place and i couldn't help myself from not getting back into it.
My 811 Be 2.0 kit should be here next week. I've read a lot of pages in the thread and browsed a few and it's somewhat confusing to me with different opinions/suggestion from the Be and 2.0.
I understand the kit comes with 7k, 5k and 3k diff oils. I noticed most of the 2.0 setup sheets and posts suggests heavier diff oils, what should i get for the build and what's a base diff setup i could use?
Can you also suggest springs for the 2.0 that i should have on hand to play with? Front and rear? Sway bars?
Also, should i get the steering rack #1 and 2 or don't i need them at all?
Are webbed bladders still recommended on the 2.0 shocks? Which pistons should i start with?
Any other recommendations for a new build? Do's and don'ts?
I hope to get everything i need before the kit gets to me so i can have a smooth continuous build. Thanks in advance!
My 811 Be 2.0 kit should be here next week. I've read a lot of pages in the thread and browsed a few and it's somewhat confusing to me with different opinions/suggestion from the Be and 2.0.
I understand the kit comes with 7k, 5k and 3k diff oils. I noticed most of the 2.0 setup sheets and posts suggests heavier diff oils, what should i get for the build and what's a base diff setup i could use?
Can you also suggest springs for the 2.0 that i should have on hand to play with? Front and rear? Sway bars?
Also, should i get the steering rack #1 and 2 or don't i need them at all?
Are webbed bladders still recommended on the 2.0 shocks? Which pistons should i start with?
Any other recommendations for a new build? Do's and don'ts?
I hope to get everything i need before the kit gets to me so i can have a smooth continuous build. Thanks in advance!
#4918
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 980
From: Orlando, Fl
The 2.0 will have the new style planetary gears in it. so you will want diff oils in the 7-15k range. Although I have used 20-30k in my center diff and liked it. I have the #2 steering rack and have used it some, but have not used the #1. I would suggest having at least one of them to have the option. I would suggest using only two of the three screws that hold the pinion in the diff case. Do not put a screw on the side of the ring gear in the diff.
#4919
Hey guys. Been away for so long from racing rc (been busy with scale crawling for a good while) but a new outdoor track just got built up near my place and i couldn't help myself from not getting back into it.
My 811 Be 2.0 kit should be here next week. I've read a lot of pages in the thread and browsed a few and it's somewhat confusing to me with different opinions/suggestion from the Be and 2.0.
I understand the kit comes with 7k, 5k and 3k diff oils. I noticed most of the 2.0 setup sheets and posts suggests heavier diff oils, what should i get for the build and what's a base diff setup i could use?
Can you also suggest springs for the 2.0 that i should have on hand to play with? Front and rear? Sway bars?
Also, should i get the steering rack #1 and 2 or don't i need them at all?
Are webbed bladders still recommended on the 2.0 shocks? Which pistons should i start with?
Any other recommendations for a new build? Do's and don'ts?
I hope to get everything i need before the kit gets to me so i can have a smooth continuous build. Thanks in advance!
My 811 Be 2.0 kit should be here next week. I've read a lot of pages in the thread and browsed a few and it's somewhat confusing to me with different opinions/suggestion from the Be and 2.0.
I understand the kit comes with 7k, 5k and 3k diff oils. I noticed most of the 2.0 setup sheets and posts suggests heavier diff oils, what should i get for the build and what's a base diff setup i could use?
Can you also suggest springs for the 2.0 that i should have on hand to play with? Front and rear? Sway bars?
Also, should i get the steering rack #1 and 2 or don't i need them at all?
Are webbed bladders still recommended on the 2.0 shocks? Which pistons should i start with?
Any other recommendations for a new build? Do's and don'ts?
I hope to get everything i need before the kit gets to me so i can have a smooth continuous build. Thanks in advance!
When you put the pinion assembly together spray all the parts off with motor spray and use red loctite. Tighten the set screw as much as you can. When you fill the diffs, fill them with all the gears in there and only to about 2mm from the top of the case. Most popular diff fluid is 10/15/10. For the pinion assembly only use the top left and bottom screw, sometimes the head of the third screw is too big and it hits the ring gear. Also when you put the screws in it might tighten the bearings up, if it does take the assembly back out and grind the case where the bearing is because the screw will mushroom the plastic, put the screws back in the tighten them, then back them out a touch.
Put grease on the outdrives, use a lot of it because our diffs dont leak and they aren't self lubricating. Its ok for it to squeeze out of the diffs on the outside by the small bearings when you put them in.
I like taper 8 hole pistons not drilled in the front and drilled to 1.3 in the rear. Taper up. For the springs I like orange V2 rear or Green V1. Front usually Grey V1.
The #1 ackerman is ok on tight tracks. I usually use #3
Email me and I can send you a setup that uses mostly stock parts. [email protected] I'd put it on here but the file is too large.
#4920
Tech Adept
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 214
From: Davao
chicky03, thanks for the reply. that was more than i expected. something i can really use when i build up the 2.0. i really appreciate it. and an email's on the way. 
IOP Racer, thanks for the info. i ordered 10 12.5 and 15 diff oils just now.

IOP Racer, thanks for the info. i ordered 10 12.5 and 15 diff oils just now.
Last edited by voodoo; 11-13-2014 at 11:12 PM.



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