They are the correct ones, they are the super mini dampers.
All other damper versions are to long.

I'd consider getting the drift spec chassis and a separate body if you can.

The drift spec will have your bearings, oil shocks, etc already, plus a faster motor. It might even have a smaller pinion suited for delivering the power earlier.
The supplied drift tyres are a good starting point too.

A rear diff locker as DJ suggests is also good.

Have fun!
Crouch

After not doing any rc for about a month my rc fun factor was dropping. I had just ditched some crusty bearings and got some after a two week wait, they were missing 1x 1050 bearing but lucky I had 2 decent spares!

Inspired by addicted2blue and the help of Qatmixs blog I went for some weight reduction. I've shaved off at least 100g using a shorty and will go back to my lancia body, lot easier to navigate at my local track.

-switched to tt02d knuckles
-car runs lot straighter as my previous rubber bearings were uneven, drag on one side.
-will set it to 0degree toe for indoor
-car feels quite punchy but also because the shorty is 65c discharge vs 40c and lighter too. Bearings may have also helped.
-opted for velcro to hold down the battery, the stuff from hobbyking is strong! Didn't want to dremel or use battery tape to go for the cheap option even though shoe goo holding down the velcro may have added another 50gm. Last night took over 10seconds to separate the battery from the velcro, not sure if it was due to it warming up etc but I was trying to traction roll the car to see what if it would stick. I'm confident the battery will stay put.
- car weighs 1200gm with all electrics. Will look forward in testing it with a lighter TC body.

Aim: beat a mate running a 6.5t in a serpent 411 while I use my 9t tt02. Will be challenging I think.

TT02- S Cad pic

http://www.thercracer.com/2014/09/ta...-high-res.html

Looks like they have also fitted the Tamiya LW suspension etc much like some of the third party kits in Japan.. Excellent

That looks promising, the suspension arms look like the long type reversible suspension arms.
I also think there is a new suspension mount for the rear and front
This will definately improve the performance and handling of this chassis.

We'll be running a TT02 in a 4 hour endure. Do think the kit motor will get too hot with the cover over the motor?

Thanks.

I would remove the plastic cover and fit a fan on the motor to keep it as cool as possible.

Also check the running gear is free I would shim the diffs as it makes a massive difference.

Here are some tips
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/ta...-and-tips.html

As an aside, got back from racing the TT02 today. (I race it outside in a Summer championship), and I managed to get FTD and also claim the win by nearly a lap.

Thanks for the advice. In this enduro we are building the car at the track and then racing. There are restrictions on changes you can make. I wish there was a TT02 series in our area. It would really keep racing costs down. Congratulations on your win.

I wouldn't even do the efford of mounting that motor cover/fan mount.
This will get the temps of the motor higher then normal.
Depending on motor type it's even better to mount a fan behind the motor, this is more effective to cool the motor then a fan above the motor.
But this depends on type of motor you are going to use.
If you are using a standard kit supplied silvercan mabuchi motor it's better to cool the motor on top of it, but when using a silvercan johnson motor then it's more efficient to cool the motor from behind.
Cause the fan is able to blow directly into the motor wich keeps the motor cooler.
When building the car make sure you have a set of 5mm shims to use for the the suspension arms (lower&upper) and for the wheel axles to remove some slop.
And make sure you mount the carton motor plate between the motor and motormount, especially for endurance racing.

I ran a couple of TT02's on the weekend - torque motor on nimh with standard gearing and stock motor cover got burning hot just in training mode!
But a silver can on 2s lipo with lower gearing (20t pinion) without that little top vent-shaped cover didn't seem to get that hot...

Interesting.
Crouch

That's good information. Thanks.

What's the average build time start to finish for a kit? How long is it taking to build with a box stock setup?

3 hours for building the car box stock.

5 hours for painting and stickering the body like the car's picture on the box.