1/8 Buggy: Do droop screws damage the chassis?
#2
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 980
From: Orlando, Fl
The droop screws do wear into the chassis. However, by the time the droops screws have done a significant amount of damage it is usually time to replace the chassis due to wear on the front and rear of it as well. I do not know of a way to keep the droop screws from digging into the chassis..other than not using them that is..
#3
Over time, droop screws will indeed wear into the chassis and cause the droop setting to become difficult to set consistently, especially when one side will droop more than the other due to wear.
Many pros choose to forego the droop screws in favor of using internal shock limiters, just like we use in 1/10 racing. This keeps the setup much more consistent and is much more fool-proof.
The car I run (AE RC8.2E) has droop screws with heads on them, with the heads facing the chassis. With the larger surface area contacting the chassis, the wear factor is much, much lower.
Many pros choose to forego the droop screws in favor of using internal shock limiters, just like we use in 1/10 racing. This keeps the setup much more consistent and is much more fool-proof.
The car I run (AE RC8.2E) has droop screws with heads on them, with the heads facing the chassis. With the larger surface area contacting the chassis, the wear factor is much, much lower.
#7
Thread Starter
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 178
Over time, droop screws will indeed wear into the chassis and cause the droop setting to become difficult to set consistently, especially when one side will droop more than the other due to wear.
Many pros choose to forego the droop screws in favor of using internal shock limiters, just like we use in 1/10 racing. This keeps the setup much more consistent and is much more fool-proof.
The car I run (AE RC8.2E) has droop screws with heads on them, with the heads facing the chassis. With the larger surface area contacting the chassis, the wear factor is much, much lower.
Many pros choose to forego the droop screws in favor of using internal shock limiters, just like we use in 1/10 racing. This keeps the setup much more consistent and is much more fool-proof.
The car I run (AE RC8.2E) has droop screws with heads on them, with the heads facing the chassis. With the larger surface area contacting the chassis, the wear factor is much, much lower.
#8
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 16
#9
Thread Starter
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 178
Wow great idea, I have to check when I get home to actually see if the droops screw is the type to wear into the chassis. I was basing it off my rc8be but I now have .2e.
#11
Combine rounded ends with the droop pad screws and you will never have a wear issue.
#12
Thread Starter
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 178
#13
Use the droop screws to fine tune how much droop front and rear you want.. (i.e. develop your setupi). Once you find that setup, take them out and put in internal limiters that give you the same desired droop.




