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1/8 Buggy: Do droop screws damage the chassis?
Do droop screws damage the chassis on 1/8 buggy? How can I protect it?
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The droop screws do wear into the chassis. However, by the time the droops screws have done a significant amount of damage it is usually time to replace the chassis due to wear on the front and rear of it as well. I do not know of a way to keep the droop screws from digging into the chassis..other than not using them that is..
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Over time, droop screws will indeed wear into the chassis and cause the droop setting to become difficult to set consistently, especially when one side will droop more than the other due to wear.
Many pros choose to forego the droop screws in favor of using internal shock limiters, just like we use in 1/10 racing. This keeps the setup much more consistent and is much more fool-proof. The car I run (AE RC8.2E) has droop screws with heads on them, with the heads facing the chassis. With the larger surface area contacting the chassis, the wear factor is much, much lower. |
Mugen and associated have droop screws you can run upside down so the pan head contacts the chassis
http://www.amain.com/Mugen-Seiki-Rebound-Stop-Adjusting-Screw/p143651 |
I've seen drivers epoxy a very thin metal plate/washer/shim just where the droop screw will touch the chassis.
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Maintly if your using the droop screws that have no button heads do dig in a lot for sure . It will take quite a while for the ones with button heads to wear though the chassis .
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Originally Posted by carcrusher46
(Post 13518073)
Over time, droop screws will indeed wear into the chassis and cause the droop setting to become difficult to set consistently, especially when one side will droop more than the other due to wear.
Many pros choose to forego the droop screws in favor of using internal shock limiters, just like we use in 1/10 racing. This keeps the setup much more consistent and is much more fool-proof. The car I run (AE RC8.2E) has droop screws with heads on them, with the heads facing the chassis. With the larger surface area contacting the chassis, the wear factor is much, much lower. |
Originally Posted by RomanCandles
(Post 13518159)
I have the same car. The droop screws are hex comet screws. I winder if there was some sort of rubber cap I could put on it.
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Originally Posted by akaalkhater
(Post 13518180)
Another way is to use a dremel to round the part of the screw that makes contact with the chassis.
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the bigger the contact patch between drop screw and chassis the less the wear
I use M4 upside down |
Originally Posted by akaalkhater
(Post 13518180)
Another way is to use a dremel to round the part of the screw that makes contact with the chassis.
Combine rounded ends with the droop pad screws and you will never have a wear issue. |
Originally Posted by wittyname
(Post 13518076)
Mugen and associated have droop screws you can run upside down so the pan head contacts the chassis
http://www.amain.com/Mugen-Seiki-Rebound-Stop-Adjusting-Screw/p143651 |
Use the droop screws to fine tune how much droop front and rear you want.. (i.e. develop your setupi). Once you find that setup, take them out and put in internal limiters that give you the same desired droop.
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