Tamiya TT02 Thread
#380
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 877
From: Antwerp, Belgium
Perhaps with some modifications but they are not a direct fit.
It's better to buy the high speed gear set (part nr 54500) and you get a 68T spur wich allows you to go higher in pinions, up to a 27T (pinion set 26/27T with part nr 54228) and if you still need some more speed then buy a 64T spur (part nr 51356 and you can mount up to a 29T pinion (pinion set 28/29T with part nr 54229)
Hope this helps you.
#383
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 877
From: Antwerp, Belgium
You just need to mount them in another motorposition on the motormount, that's just the best part about this car.
I'm having a yeah racing motormount but so far i still haven't used it.
Me and my little girl running the TT-02 chassis on carpet but i always use tamiya tires.
I could recommend the medium narrow radial tires from tamiya (part nr 51023) or some A-type medium narrow reinforced tires (with part nr 53433, this will allow you to mount the tires on rims with an offset of 2mm.
This will make the car 4mm in total wider wich will give a better balanced car.
#384
I'm currently using 6mm offset wheels with Ride slicks with LT inner. Just wanted a set of 32-34 deg tires... And didn't want ones with spec markings on the rim for the complete white out look. My tt02 ride height was between 10-15mm so I did roll at some points... It's under 10mm though could get more by changing the collar positions on the front and flipping the rear hub but I probably won't as I loctited the front knuckles 
Got some thicker damper oil (400) so still quite a few more settings to play around with. Probably won't get the 2degree toe in rears even though I hear good things about it...

Got some thicker damper oil (400) so still quite a few more settings to play around with. Probably won't get the 2degree toe in rears even though I hear good things about it...
#385
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 12
Hi, if it helps, I can say that our club uses Sorex 28R for carpet racing (XG-28JB - Sorex Glued 28R+JB+Revlite24)
Finally finished assembly of the TT-02D (which incidentally will not be used for drifting, but was purchased as it included bearings, super mini shocks and a sport tuned motor) and gave it a shake down yesterday at the race track. It felt promising after racing my usual car all day, and with some experimenting with settings I’m sure it will perform well.
I just used the anti-wear (AW) grease in the front diff and Tamiya grease in the rear (not sure if this is okay or if ceramic grease would be better in the rear – has anyone any thoughts on this?) to give a stiffer front diff action and hopefully more on-power traction. Also used hex drive screws rather than the supplied self-tapping screws to ease assembly and future maintenance. Other items used were low friction step screws (54409 and 54550), low friction suspension balls (54559), low friction suspension shafts (54395), aluminium motor mount (54558), high speed gear set (54500), long wheel axles (53410) to give an approx. track width of 185mm using 24mm wheels / Ride Re32 tyres (note, use gearbox joints 54477 with these universal shafts) and 2.5 degree aluminium rear uprights (54549), which were purchased with a 15% discount from Tony’s Tamiya Parts. Note that the instructions that come with these show upright A on the right of the car whereas it needs to turned upside down and fitted on the left to give toe-in and the appropriate ride height of approx. 5.5mm / 6.0mm for touring car racing.
Does anyone know what the difference is between the on-road tuned spring set (53440) and the on-road spring set hard (53163)? For example, are they the same length and will they suit the size of super mini shocks when used for touring car racing?
Finally finished assembly of the TT-02D (which incidentally will not be used for drifting, but was purchased as it included bearings, super mini shocks and a sport tuned motor) and gave it a shake down yesterday at the race track. It felt promising after racing my usual car all day, and with some experimenting with settings I’m sure it will perform well.
I just used the anti-wear (AW) grease in the front diff and Tamiya grease in the rear (not sure if this is okay or if ceramic grease would be better in the rear – has anyone any thoughts on this?) to give a stiffer front diff action and hopefully more on-power traction. Also used hex drive screws rather than the supplied self-tapping screws to ease assembly and future maintenance. Other items used were low friction step screws (54409 and 54550), low friction suspension balls (54559), low friction suspension shafts (54395), aluminium motor mount (54558), high speed gear set (54500), long wheel axles (53410) to give an approx. track width of 185mm using 24mm wheels / Ride Re32 tyres (note, use gearbox joints 54477 with these universal shafts) and 2.5 degree aluminium rear uprights (54549), which were purchased with a 15% discount from Tony’s Tamiya Parts. Note that the instructions that come with these show upright A on the right of the car whereas it needs to turned upside down and fitted on the left to give toe-in and the appropriate ride height of approx. 5.5mm / 6.0mm for touring car racing.
Does anyone know what the difference is between the on-road tuned spring set (53440) and the on-road spring set hard (53163)? For example, are they the same length and will they suit the size of super mini shocks when used for touring car racing?
#386
ATG - thanks for the tips! i may get a set of 30-32 deg tires... just to compensate when the weather gets warmer.. Im still a casual racer so nothing serious (using a JDM body as the shell).
Keen to hear on your AW grease at the front... right now I will need to just try to push my car further through turns.
One problem I have I think is the front left suspension ball is a lot looser than the front right, and I think it's causing the left wheel to have more play.. and not helping with full throttling on the straight (but also my servo isn't centering 100% too ha!).
Maybe I'll fork out some loose change again for the low friction step screws...
Keen to hear on your AW grease at the front... right now I will need to just try to push my car further through turns.
One problem I have I think is the front left suspension ball is a lot looser than the front right, and I think it's causing the left wheel to have more play.. and not helping with full throttling on the straight (but also my servo isn't centering 100% too ha!).
Maybe I'll fork out some loose change again for the low friction step screws...
Last edited by Djchow85; 07-21-2014 at 04:53 AM.
#387
Also what is everyone using as their universal drive shafts?
I'm currently running one side a jazrider universal and one side YR universal (had one from each set bust on me, either didn't threadlock grub screw,Jaz - busted on me after several laps possibly due to the excess droop and having too tall of a ride height). The YR shaft has now been threadlocked. Jazriders were sealed so you're not unable disassemble them.
Currently running a 9T motor for an indoor track. I know there are some brands that offer universals with a thinner shaft but you'd need to couple it with a smaller drive cup. Would the only advantage of these would be its lighter weight but then at the same time not be as strong, having a narrower shaft?
Has anyone used the Tamiya universals?
#53792 http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...assembly-53792
The YeahRacing shaft is of the same design which I'd think be ok as long as I loctite the grub screw?
GPM also make a set but of a different design..
http://www.asiatees.com/display?Tami...id=61349&pid=1
I'm currently running one side a jazrider universal and one side YR universal (had one from each set bust on me, either didn't threadlock grub screw,Jaz - busted on me after several laps possibly due to the excess droop and having too tall of a ride height). The YR shaft has now been threadlocked. Jazriders were sealed so you're not unable disassemble them.
Currently running a 9T motor for an indoor track. I know there are some brands that offer universals with a thinner shaft but you'd need to couple it with a smaller drive cup. Would the only advantage of these would be its lighter weight but then at the same time not be as strong, having a narrower shaft?
Has anyone used the Tamiya universals?
#53792 http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...assembly-53792
The YeahRacing shaft is of the same design which I'd think be ok as long as I loctite the grub screw?
GPM also make a set but of a different design..
http://www.asiatees.com/display?Tami...id=61349&pid=1
#388
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 877
From: Antwerp, Belgium
Also what is everyone using as their universal drive shafts?
I'm currently running one side a jazrider universal and one side YR universal (had one from each set bust on me, either didn't threadlock grub screw,Jaz - busted on me after several laps possibly due to the excess droop and having too tall of a ride height). The YR shaft has now been threadlocked. Jazriders were sealed so you're not unable disassemble them.
Currently running a 9T motor for an indoor track. I know there are some brands that offer universals with a thinner shaft but you'd need to couple it with a smaller drive cup. Would the only advantage of these would be its lighter weight but then at the same time not be as strong, having a narrower shaft?
Has anyone used the Tamiya universals?
#53792 http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...assembly-53792
The YeahRacing shaft is of the same design which I'd think be ok as long as I loctite the grub screw?
GPM also make a set but of a different design..
http://www.asiatees.com/display?Tami...id=61349&pid=1
I'm currently running one side a jazrider universal and one side YR universal (had one from each set bust on me, either didn't threadlock grub screw,Jaz - busted on me after several laps possibly due to the excess droop and having too tall of a ride height). The YR shaft has now been threadlocked. Jazriders were sealed so you're not unable disassemble them.
Currently running a 9T motor for an indoor track. I know there are some brands that offer universals with a thinner shaft but you'd need to couple it with a smaller drive cup. Would the only advantage of these would be its lighter weight but then at the same time not be as strong, having a narrower shaft?
Has anyone used the Tamiya universals?
#53792 http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...assembly-53792
The YeahRacing shaft is of the same design which I'd think be ok as long as I loctite the grub screw?
GPM also make a set but of a different design..
http://www.asiatees.com/display?Tami...id=61349&pid=1
#390
Thread Starter
Tech Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,458
From: santa monica / manchester
Nope, not really, although the blue does look pretty!
As a side note, my raced prepped TT02 managed to win the A-final today against Xrays, Hot bodies etc
3 seconds clear gap!
The full write up for the car will done soon.
As a side note, my raced prepped TT02 managed to win the A-final today against Xrays, Hot bodies etc
3 seconds clear gap!
The full write up for the car will done soon.





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