12LikesTekno NB48
05-30-2014 | 08:24 PM
#1471
So I dont know about others but Ive had an issue with some of the stock screws. Mainly the 3x40 screws used for the hinge pin blocks on the bulkheads.
Even with a band new VP Pro 2.0 bit,it still skips out and is right on the edge of being stripped. As if the hex bit hole isn't deep enough for the bit to sit down in like other screws.
So I decided to change those out and do something different before I do strip the screw head.
I went to Amainhobbies.com and picked up some Protek 3x40 cap screws and some Lynx Heli countersunk washers.
The end result doesn't look bad or as if it wasn't stock(in my opinion). But mainly,no more chances of stripping a screw.
Even with a band new VP Pro 2.0 bit,it still skips out and is right on the edge of being stripped. As if the hex bit hole isn't deep enough for the bit to sit down in like other screws.
So I decided to change those out and do something different before I do strip the screw head.
I went to Amainhobbies.com and picked up some Protek 3x40 cap screws and some Lynx Heli countersunk washers.
The end result doesn't look bad or as if it wasn't stock(in my opinion). But mainly,no more chances of stripping a screw.
05-30-2014 | 08:30 PM
#1472
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,486
From: Greenville, SC
That's a good mod and I applaud your effort.... however completely unnecessary. Sorry.
I have personally found between all the Tekno vehicles I run, 1) the wing screws and 2) the rear bulk screws are most prone to bending. That being said, I have never stripped a single one after multiple seaons.
Recommendations: Use chapstick or oil to thread it for the first time. Use a QUALITY driver (I've heard "questionable" feedback on the VPPro brand to say the least) and you're much less likely to have issues. Use a electric driver to initial threading which decreases the likelihood of stripping probably 5-10 fold. Just ensure that if you do that you go SLOW and keep it cool and lubricated in order to not stress the plastic/composite.
While I'm not a losi man for vehicles, I use them as a %#@%#&%(@@&$@ hammer and they still go strong
I replaced my first 2.0mm losi last season bit after roughly 10 years of use finally... I think that speaks for itself.
I have personally found between all the Tekno vehicles I run, 1) the wing screws and 2) the rear bulk screws are most prone to bending. That being said, I have never stripped a single one after multiple seaons.
Recommendations: Use chapstick or oil to thread it for the first time. Use a QUALITY driver (I've heard "questionable" feedback on the VPPro brand to say the least) and you're much less likely to have issues. Use a electric driver to initial threading which decreases the likelihood of stripping probably 5-10 fold. Just ensure that if you do that you go SLOW and keep it cool and lubricated in order to not stress the plastic/composite.
While I'm not a losi man for vehicles, I use them as a %#@%#&%(@@&$@ hammer and they still go strong
I replaced my first 2.0mm losi last season bit after roughly 10 years of use finally... I think that speaks for itself.
05-30-2014 | 08:36 PM
#1473
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 203
From: Melvin,IL
That's a good mod and I applaud your effort.... however completely unnecessary. Sorry.
I have personally found between all the Tekno vehicles I run, 1) the wing screws and 2) the rear bulk screws are most prone to bending. That being said, I have never stripped a single one after multiple seaons.
Recommendations: Use chapstick or oil to thread it for the first time. Use a QUALITY driver (I've heard "questionable" feedback on the VPPro brand to say the least) and you're much less likely to have issues. Use a electric driver to initial threading which decreases the likelihood of stripping probably 5-10 fold. Just ensure that if you do that you go SLOW and keep it cool and lubricated in order to not stress the plastic/composite.
While I'm not a losi man for vehicles, I use them as a %#@%#&%(@@&$@ hammer and they still go strong I replaced my first 2.0mm losi last season bit after roughly 10 years of use finally... I think that speaks for itself.
I have personally found between all the Tekno vehicles I run, 1) the wing screws and 2) the rear bulk screws are most prone to bending. That being said, I have never stripped a single one after multiple seaons.
Recommendations: Use chapstick or oil to thread it for the first time. Use a QUALITY driver (I've heard "questionable" feedback on the VPPro brand to say the least) and you're much less likely to have issues. Use a electric driver to initial threading which decreases the likelihood of stripping probably 5-10 fold. Just ensure that if you do that you go SLOW and keep it cool and lubricated in order to not stress the plastic/composite.
While I'm not a losi man for vehicles, I use them as a %#@%#&%(@@&$@ hammer and they still go strong
I replaced my first 2.0mm losi last season bit after roughly 10 years of use finally... I think that speaks for itself.The bits just pop out because they don't sit down far. It's much like the problem people will have when screws have to much paint on them and the bit doesn't fit well because of it. These don't have paint so that isn't the issue but it feels like it.
06-01-2014 | 05:18 PM
#1478
Yeah I've bent a steel one before. Was not expecting it. Wasn't off a jump, it traction rolled and then cartwheeled a few times. It was at high speed. In my opinion, the chassis on the nb48 is very flexi, it is milled out to within an inch of its life. don't get me wrong, I like the fact that it's lightweight, but I do wish that the rear and center braces overlapped. At the moment there is a small gap between the two (looking side on) where there is no bracing, and that is exactly where my chassis bent.
Since then I have put many more laps on it, and had many more spills without it happening again, so it's just one of those things. It handled some tough practice laps last weekend really well, to the point where I think durability is a non issue, besides some random breaks.
Since then I have put many more laps on it, and had many more spills without it happening again, so it's just one of those things. It handled some tough practice laps last weekend really well, to the point where I think durability is a non issue, besides some random breaks.
The link from your throttle servo to the LSN side of carb should be perpendicular to the chassis not on an angle like that, your going to mess up your carb. Loosen the set screw on the ring w the ball end on the carb and rotate it so your link is perpendicular
06-01-2014 | 05:58 PM
#1479
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,109
From: Japan
I am pretty sure that the beveled head of the 3x40 screw needs to "Lock in" to the rear hinge pin holder to keep it from moving.
So I dont know about others but Ive had an issue with some of the stock screws. Mainly the 3x40 screws used for the hinge pin blocks on the bulkheads.
Even with a band new VP Pro 2.0 bit,it still skips out and is right on the edge of being stripped. As if the hex bit hole isn't deep enough for the bit to sit down in like other screws.
So I decided to change those out and do something different before I do strip the screw head.
I went to Amainhobbies.com and picked up some Protek 3x40 cap screws and some Lynx Heli countersunk washers.
The end result doesn't look bad or as if it wasn't stock(in my opinion). But mainly,no more chances of stripping a screw.
Even with a band new VP Pro 2.0 bit,it still skips out and is right on the edge of being stripped. As if the hex bit hole isn't deep enough for the bit to sit down in like other screws.
So I decided to change those out and do something different before I do strip the screw head.
I went to Amainhobbies.com and picked up some Protek 3x40 cap screws and some Lynx Heli countersunk washers.
The end result doesn't look bad or as if it wasn't stock(in my opinion). But mainly,no more chances of stripping a screw.
06-02-2014 | 12:32 AM
#1480
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 762
From: somewhere near Japan
Also i was thinking about my fast clutchshoes wear issue for last week, and realised that it happened because i've lost on of the four screws holding motor stands (closest to the center of the chassis), and such rapid wear is a result of increased vibrations due to lost screw (actually noticed that fact only after ride). Because everything else was fine: tune a bit rich, surface very slippery, no stones in drivetrain.
06-02-2014 | 02:25 AM
#1481
When you say rapid wear how long are you talking ?
What springs are you as that might make a difference as well
06-02-2014 | 03:37 AM
#1482
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 762
From: somewhere near Japan
06-02-2014 | 04:59 AM
#1483
06-02-2014 | 05:24 AM
#1484
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,465
From: SoCal
Engine torque, buggy weight and how much you pull the trigger determines clutch wear. Heavier springs wear shoes quicker, I am on a gallon on the kit shoes and they still look good. I would be intrested to see pics of your clutch.
06-02-2014 | 09:37 AM
#1485
Yes, that's true. The counter sunk screw was chosen to center or "lock in" the holder. The holder is also keyed to the chassis so that helps if you use the caphead screws, but you're right, it won't be as accurate as the CS screws.