It does look nice did their homework on this one. Left nothing out.

How many braces are you guys running in the rear for loose rough track?

never bent one and i race it every two weeks on tracks with 25 foot jumps etc

i only run 1 rear brace hmm i wonder how your doing it ?

Yeah I've bent a steel one before. Was not expecting it. Wasn't off a jump, it traction rolled and then cartwheeled a few times. It was at high speed. In my opinion, the chassis on the nb48 is very flexi, it is milled out to within an inch of its life. don't get me wrong, I like the fact that it's lightweight, but I do wish that the rear and center braces overlapped. At the moment there is a small gap between the two (looking side on) where there is no bracing, and that is exactly where my chassis bent.

Since then I have put many more laps on it, and had many more spills without it happening again, so it's just one of those things. It handled some tough practice laps last weekend really well, to the point where I think durability is a non issue, besides some random breaks.

Big in Japan, I think the small gap you mentioned it's compensated by the motor mounts, so in my opinion there is not gap at all.

Regarding the chassis flex, I'm guessing it's not related to the chassis itself, it's a 4mm when others are 3mm thick, maybe the long chassis brace is the cause of the flex, I really don't like the twisted form of it.

2 NB48's running this past weekend at the Midwest Nitro Series at RJD hobbies in Lincoln,IL
I don't know the result of the gray car but mine(green) finished 4th in the B main.

Sweet pics!

Well it was about that time.

2 thirty minute a-mains, half dozen qualifiers, some various practice and breaking in the engine. Roughly 1.5-2 gallons down, so full first full tear down of the vehicle.

98% very good. No play, no abnormal wearing on any of the drive train, no broken/strained parts, etc. My back left bearing was starting to get crunchy (exhaust side), so I guess that doesn't surprise me in comparison to my electric which doesn't have that issue. My concern was the diff's. My SCT410 has always been perfect, I went through a few center EB48 diff's before I got one that didn't leak, and this was no different. Front was in perfect shape, rear slight leaks, middle was nearly bone dry. I replaced the seals and o-rings, did the flat sandpaper trick on the cup, and tightened it down snug but not tight. I'll break it down after the next race to see how it does. Suffering from some significant pushing and other issues, I decided to give the box stock setup a try as well, so very different from what I was running. I've heard a lot of realy good things, so we'll see. Overall, a very good start.

And I got my new bodies cut

Great news! And they look great

One small question: shock rubber boots. Mine died very fast, guess that replacing with tekno ones gonna give same result. Annyone tried boots from any other manutacturer?

It's kind of an art. If you do it right, you can get them to last a couple of months from what I've seen.

First always clean the inside of the boot when you do your shocks. a lot of material can get in there and is quite abrasive against the shock shaft. Obviously that is bad in general, but the reason I bring this up is the increased wear and tear on the boot. Ensure the entire thing is clean, especially around the spring retainer end.

Assembly wise, a few tricks I've found. 1) Try to not stretch or stress the boot during any of the steps. This will prolong it's life greatly. 2) Put a dab of oil on the end of the shock when trying to slip the boot on. It will go over much easier. 3) When close to final assembly ensure all your shock pieces are aligned the way you want (cup direction, etc) and that the boot isn't twisted. Have the boot just barely onto the plastic shock end. When you put the spring retainer on, make sure the plastic isn't stretched and is centered inside the retainer.

Not sure what your process is, but this has worked well for me. They are indeed a disposable part and I have probably 20 spares easy in my boxes for my vehicles, but I can absolutely get a couple of months out of them before any real tearing starts.

Get the new losi boots, they last what seems like forever.

Try using a oring over the end of the boot to secure it to the shaft not the rod end.Also you can try to super glue end of boot to shaft,make a couple of folds with the boot glue between folds.Both of these methods work great.

So I dont know about others but Ive had an issue with some of the stock screws. Mainly the 3x40 screws used for the hinge pin blocks on the bulkheads.

Even with a band new VP Pro 2.0 bit,it still skips out and is right on the edge of being stripped. As if the hex bit hole isn't deep enough for the bit to sit down in like other screws.
So I decided to change those out and do something different before I do strip the screw head.
I went to Amainhobbies.com and picked up some Protek 3x40 cap screws and some Lynx Heli countersunk washers.

The end result doesn't look bad or as if it wasn't stock(in my opinion). But mainly,no more chances of stripping a screw.

Thanks for all advices about shock boots. I still have kit boots on my ebuggy, but associated have a bit different boot-cup-shockend system than tekno, boot is not placed directly between cup and shockend.
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TBH i've found that tekno screws softer than AE screws on my 8.2e, and even with good tools you have chance to strip hex sides

Also i was thinking about my fast clutchshoes wear issue for last week, and realised that it happened because i've lost on of the four screws holding motor stands (closest to the center of the chassis), and such rapid wear is a result of increased vibrations due to lost screw (actually noticed that fact only after ride). Because everything else was fine: tune a bit rich, surface very slippery, no stones in drivetrain.