ah yeah, I see where you are coming from. no the move is inspired mostly by my desire to run one brand for the season (summer here) as I run e buggy, nitro buggy and nitro truggy, of which I already own the Xray truggy and XB8 (yet to run) as buying spares for 3 different brands was a PITA lol

The Tekno was definitely an eye opener as regards steering and stays near the top of my list of brands to run again in the future. I lust after the truggy!

per your other points, yes i tried weights near the rear bulkhead and that worked too, (would be similar to running the engine in rear position) but with my driving i preferred it on the hubs, plus it needed more weight in that position than on the hub for the same result, and steering was not affected as much running the weight on the hub.
But yes, if the car starts getting out of shape, extra mass will affect the dynamics, although we are only talking 10+10gram here (same as some mud sticking to the inside of my wheels)

Ryan and Joe are running the LRC brace with either double dots in or even single dot in. This helps the rear to track with the front when exiting corner under hard acceleration.

Would recommend adding washers to the spindles first, then try moving the rear hubs forward, then try double dot in and see what you think. Try each in succession. Don't do too many changes at once.

They're here!

New boots



New rod ends

Just rollpins or is there a setscrew?

they're cool. look like screws to me

They are set screws

There are indeed, many ways to get the performance we are looking for. Although I am not an engineer, I tend to lean towards suspension theory and design for performance enhancing changes. Since getting the EB-48.2 in January of 2014, I chose to begin learning more about suspension geometry, weight transfer, roll centers, F/R ride frequencies, roll sensitivity, etc.

I've had great success making more calculated changes, looking for very specific results for something I might be lacking (on throttle rear traction, mid corner, off power steering, etc.).

The 2 best tools I've used to do this with has been the Tekno EB-48.2 (and now the NB-48) along with the RC Crew Chief software (RC3). These 2 Tekno vehicles have a very similar weight balance, nearly 50/50 in weight distribution front to rear and side to side. Great platforms to start with. The suspension mounting points provide very adjustable (and feel-able) locations to choose from to alter performance in a predictable manner. Out of the box, these are great platforms to understand and learn suspension tuning theory.

I've had RC3 for over a year, but didn't get serious with it until this year with the Tekno. No doubt, it, along with understanding some suspension theory has a learning curve. However, the payoff is substantial. A better handling car, faster, more consistent lap times and most importantly, confidence in both my equipment and ability to make changes based on the conditions and feedback I'm getting from the car on the track. No more guess work.

If you're looking for a more methodical approach to chassis tuning, check out RC3. It'll change the way you look at racing.

Try it out for free. My EB-48.2 model is available for download (Tekno EB48.2 - Jim Brown Team RC3). Message me for the NB-48 model as I am just getting it on the track to fine tune my setup and has not been added to the site just yet.

Free Trial Download:
http://www.rccrewchief.wrightdesign....cDownload.aspx

Models for download page:
http://www.rccrewchief.wrightdesign....dDownload.aspx

Jim

thanks for the post mate, I tried RC Crew Chief a few months ago, I am all for the methodical tuning methods, but found that using the time to actually tune at a track instead was teaching me more, being able to feel the changes and what it meant in regards to my particular driving style.
Things like how hard you can push a setup only become obvious during use. I do like to optimise the car at home using theory and things like RC Crew Chief, but sometimes you get to the track and its obvious that some crude change you make at the track that in theory shouldn't work at all, works better than anything you could have come up with in crew chief. Adding the weight was one of those things.

Agreed.

For the record though, I bring a laptop to the track with both RC3 on it and the Tekin setup software (for eBuggy). While there are some changes that I can now make without having to even power up the laptop, it has been nice to jump into the software to virtually confirm a physical change that I am contemplating making before I make it. Like consulting with a real, live "Crew Chief".

My regimen today revolves around a fairly solid setup (for my eBuggy) where I am beginning to focus more on my lines and driving skills. This is partly because the setup I've arrived at is "that good", that I spend less time trying new chassis setup changes to pick up a tenth of a second.

And this is working quite well. Where I was consistently well over a second off of the pace of the fast guys and seldom finished higher than 4th or 5th at club races, I am now within 0.25 to 0.5 seconds of the fast guys, am much more consistent (wreck less), am more confident in both my tuning and driving abilities and lastly, finishing top 3 with some wins and TQ's.

Getting the NB-48 is my most recent addition to shaving off a few more tenths. The fast guys that I chase run both nitro and electric. They favor nitro and are typically faster in nitro (a few seconds faster in a qualifier or main when they run both). With my roots being in 2WD electric buggy for 25+ years, I feel that I may be driving a bit too conservative to eek out slightly faster lap times in this bigger, faster class.

My immediate goals are to use the nitro buggy to introduce a different method of driving that might prove faster for both nitro and electric. Having RC3 to help me dial in the NB-48 make the task of setting up yet another "new" car a whole lot less daunting.

There's no replacement for both track testing and wheel time. I got into 1/8th 4WD in March of 2010, spending time with Losi, Hot Bodies and Mugen buggies and truggies, nitro and electric. When I got the Tekno, I decided that I didn't want to spend yet another sporadic year "trying" to make them work. When getting my Tekno EB-48.2 this year, I wanted to get more test and tune along with more practice. At the same time, I wanted to make those sessions count. I became much more efficient at tuning and have more productive practice sessions as compared to the way I did it before:

-using a pro's setup
-guessing on what changes to make when that didn't work
-listening to the "hot setup tip" in the pits

There is no "wrong" way here. This is a hobby and a competitive sport for most of us who race. Part of the fun in it for me is learning something new. This has been a fun challenge. One that has been increasingly paying off this past year.

Jim

TKR6140 Supplemental Instructions:

Hello, we wanted to let our customers know that the newly released spring perches and shock boots require a different procedure when assembling/building them due to the new shock boot design.

For the SCT410, EB48.2, NB48, ET48, NT48:
1. Unthread your current shock rod ends. Be sure to use shock shaft pliers so you don't scratch or nick the surface of the shock shaft. Remove any o-rings used to limit up travel if any are installed.

2. Install new shock boot onto shaft and secure around shock cartridge cap as shown:

3. Install new rod end as shown in the second image. Be sure to use shock shaft pliers so you don't scratch or nick the surface of the shock shaft.

With the rod end fully tightened down the shock boot should look like this:

Rebuild the shock like you normally would, just remember that the shock boot will have to be pulled down over the rod end to set rebound and is not able to slide over and off the rod end like the old shock boots.

Once you refill with oil and bleed the shock to the desired rebound you can install the shock boot back into the proper position and install the spring, spring perch and use a 1.5mm hex wrench to install the set screw. The set screw is the length of the spring perched and should be flush with the perch when installed as shown

That's it, enjoy your new shock boots and spring perches!
-Thomas

So your saying run less rear toe to gain more rear on power traction?

No, doesn't give more rear traction. Actually less rear straight line traction. What it does is make the rear of the car more predictable under hard acceleration when exiting a corner. Too much rear toe can make the rear of the car behave oddly in corners and lose traction. It's something we've recently revisited and it made quite a difference for those who drive hard.

sweet. I'm sure having RC CrewChief at the track while you are testing would be a killer combo, and you'll start getting good results, as you are experiencing. totally with you on the sporadic results as you try stuff, and its kinda where I am too. But, in saying that, don't forget to throw in a Wildcard every now and then

Hello,

Anybody using this starterbox with the buggy?

http://dynamiterc.com/Products/Defau...ProdID=DYN5650

Want to make sure no issues.

Thank you.

Never used it or seen anyone else with it. Id suggest the OFNA because everyone lieks them or the Protek surestart because its cheaper and works great just needs some artful setup