Originally Posted by suzukipro

Yesterday my car (XB4) ran fine in practice and when tried to power it up for the 1st qual I had steering, but lost the throttle. lights 1,2, & 6 lit up flashing so I rebound, recalibrated and tried a few different hotwire settings with no luck and was done for the day. Today I looked things over clipped the motor wires and powered up the ESC with no motor attached, things appeared to be good (led centered and moved with throttle/brake movements) however it didn't beep or make any noise as it usually does on power up. I'm stumped if I have a Motor or ESC issue at this point, should I solder things back up and see what happens? I also have a brand new 1700kv truggy motor I could use to rule out the motor, but hate to solder it up just to test things. I'll try Tekin Customer support tomorrow to see if they want me to send it in or can point me in the right direction.

In the mean time any advice or suggestions are welcomed

Thanks,

Originally Posted by BRSracing

I am running a Reedy Mach 2 17.5 with the RSX, does not seem to work right with the data logger for motor temp. Anyone know if the Reedy Mach 2 is suppose to work with it and if I am maybe do something wrong

Originally Posted by Randy_Pike

Not all motors have the sensors installed. So if you see a flat line or some odd reading that never changes, this is the cause.

Originally Posted by BRSracing

Thanks Randy!
I was thinking that was the case.. I really like my Tekin gen2 17.5 but I can't get the speed and tempatures to work out in the B5M. Im Thinking the Reedy's larger holes on the can let it run cooler in the MM. Tried venting the body but I am pushing 170 or a little over temping the can after five minutes. I played it safe on gearing and timing as well, safe enough i was under powered compared to the rest. Rear motor it will run all day with no heat issue, and I have the speed to run with the rest. Bigger vents on the can I think is what the Tekin may need. The gearing I was using was 69/31 under 20 degrees of timing in the motor, blinky mode.

Originally Posted by Randy_Pike

You're dropping well below a typical 6v 2s lipo cut off range. So yes if your LVC is on, it's going to cut throttle.

You're also likely on the right track. A 30c pack isn't going to handle today's 4wd buggies with low turn mod motors. Especially one that is only 4200mah. Figure you'll get about 3-4 minute of full power before it starts going flat in an IDEAL condition.

Time for some new packs

Originally Posted by Casper

170 is not bad at all. Venting the front of the body is a good thing to get some more air to a MM setup.

Originally Posted by BRSracing

Thanks Randy!
I was thinking that was the case.. I really like my Tekin gen2 17.5 but I can't get the speed and tempatures to work out in the B5M. Im Thinking the Reedy's larger holes on the can let it run cooler in the MM. Tried venting the body but I am pushing 170 or a little over temping the can after five minutes. I played it safe on gearing and timing as well, safe enough i was under powered compared to the rest. Rear motor it will run all day with no heat issue, and I have the speed to run with the rest. Bigger vents on the can I think is what the Tekin may need. The gearing I was using was 69/31 under 20 degrees of timing in the motor, blinky mode.

Originally Posted by drappattack

Has anybody had any good experience with this ESC. I just received this esc and hoping its good.

Originally Posted by Randy_Pike

Try dropping a tooth and going to 71/30, can timing at 25. 170 after a full race "pull" is fine. But I think trying my changes may help get you the power you're looking for without creating more heat.

Use the data logger. I've been finding so many guys overgeared trying to get speed that they're bogging the whole car down....I know it can sound crazy at first but the acceleration "curve" with the super tall gearing is a goof up. REALLY review that data log How to we posted. http://www.teamtekin.com/datalogging.html

Mid motor cars also have more drag and drivetrain wrap to push with the 2nd gear and all the weight....

Rp

Originally Posted by wileycat

Any body have a problem with their rsx cutting of during run time...not at voltege cut off? my rsx has bee shutting off on me then cuts back on.I might get a lap or close to then it does the same thing again. Thought it was battery connection but tried another and same thing. It does this after about 5 min of run time! Is their a setting im missing or something because I only had it a month with not very much run or over heated. I did some basic setups with my hot wire which is an older one.

Originally Posted by BRSracing

I did not have a 71 spur so I went with 72 30. Car came off the track at 180 using a temp gun on the can. Data logger had it at 217. Changed gearing to 76 28 next round. Came off at 154 temp gun on can 179 on data logger. Should I be using outer can temp or data logger temp for getting it setup? I have heard both ways.

Originally Posted by Randy_Pike

The data logger is more accurate but will read higher than a traditional "can" temp will, just bear that in mind. Nothing wrong with comparing the can temp to "other" drivers.