3LikesMugen MBX6
05-07-2014 | 12:51 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 263
From: Houston, TX
05-17-2014 | 07:00 AM
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 68
From: St Louis
Ive been away!
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
05-17-2014 | 02:15 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 240
Hey guys. I have what I believe to be is a mbx6 eco m spec. I would like to get it to run nitro if I can. Is the chassis the same on both cars? Can I just buy a engine mount, tank and radio box and make it a nitro? Thanks guys.
Btw if anyone has spare shock bodies for the front please pm I want to buy 1. It's the damper casing.
Btw if anyone has spare shock bodies for the front please pm I want to buy 1. It's the damper casing.
05-17-2014 | 02:31 PM
Tech Apprentice
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 56
From: Portugal
Ive been away!
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
I picked it up rtr with good servos for 170€ (sanwa m8, mbx6 with some upgrades, tires, titan mg digi4 for steering and a futaba servo for throttle, oh and the icing on the cake a barely used ninja b01 with a ninja pipe) so i will be trying it out probably next weekend! Any advice on setup?
05-18-2014 | 02:48 AM
Tech Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,033
From: Croatia
Happy to report that this past Sunday my car behaved very well and 5 drivers asked if they could do some laps with my car. Everyone had a blast, thing is unreal! Setup is basic setup with these changes:
K light blue rear spring,600cps front and 550cps rear and sworkz gold front and rear ARBs. Still using the underdrive.
Very willing to turn, doesn't get upset unless you flick the rear end violently, is responsive and agile bordering on nervous for those that are not accustomed. Only minor thing I saw was bump steer on compression, lot's of it. Any pointers to get rid of it?
K light blue rear spring,600cps front and 550cps rear and sworkz gold front and rear ARBs. Still using the underdrive.
Very willing to turn, doesn't get upset unless you flick the rear end violently, is responsive and agile bordering on nervous for those that are not accustomed. Only minor thing I saw was bump steer on compression, lot's of it. Any pointers to get rid of it?
05-18-2014 | 04:27 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,569
From: My house.
Ive been away!
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
x30tooth-The 6 really likes the narrow manifold. Sorry to say but it was built narrower intentionally so you should get this piece. If you have the scratch, find the 14005, I think they call it the "80" for 80 mm.
xMunch-You can use a 2mm longer screw in that diff, but you better get a new housing. These diffs are bulletproof, if you have an issue throw the part away and replace. For tuning the low end try pinching the fuel line shut right before the input nipple. The car should run for about 5-8 seconds and ramp up rpms til it dies. If it runs on and tries hard to stay lit then lean that mother out and test again. Then hit the high needle.
xBazunga-I like +2 hubs on the rear and +1 on front, 2mm rack raise, Aluminum axle shafts and joint cups, and all the titanium I can put in (including diff screws). This car is completely ready to go out of the box, unlike kits that require lots more stuff to race, but these suggestions give you a little bit of room to refine, balance and reduce some weight.
Yap, Kyosho light blue springs.
05-19-2014 | 11:47 PM
Tech Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,033
From: Croatia
OK, I understand, I will watch my language 
So the K springs fit the MBX6 without problems, both front and rear? That is nice to know, but those springs are even more expensive than Mugen ones, so I think I will get some original ones instead. I am looking for some spring options, anyone knows which (from other cars) fit?
So the K springs fit the MBX6 without problems, both front and rear? That is nice to know, but those springs are even more expensive than Mugen ones, so I think I will get some original ones instead. I am looking for some spring options, anyone knows which (from other cars) fit?
05-20-2014 | 04:53 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 263
From: Houston, TX
@RushDL
Yeah, diff blew out again this weekend, all fluid came back out after running for about 3 minutes. Had to borrow one from someone else to run the main.
Going to order a whole new assembly.
I think bottom end was rich on the engine. Had to get my nitro had back on - it has been a long time since I did nitro, just getting back into it since I got the '6.
Yeah, diff blew out again this weekend, all fluid came back out after running for about 3 minutes. Had to borrow one from someone else to run the main.
Going to order a whole new assembly.
I think bottom end was rich on the engine. Had to get my nitro had back on - it has been a long time since I did nitro, just getting back into it since I got the '6.
05-20-2014 | 06:19 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 312
From: France
@RushDL
Yeah, diff blew out again this weekend, all fluid came back out after running for about 3 minutes. Had to borrow one from someone else to run the main.
Going to order a whole new assembly.
I think bottom end was rich on the engine. Had to get my nitro had back on - it has been a long time since I did nitro, just getting back into it since I got the '6.
Yeah, diff blew out again this weekend, all fluid came back out after running for about 3 minutes. Had to borrow one from someone else to run the main.
Going to order a whole new assembly.
I think bottom end was rich on the engine. Had to get my nitro had back on - it has been a long time since I did nitro, just getting back into it since I got the '6.
For the past 3 years i have tried many buggy brands and totally agree with RushDL@ out of the box this car is ready for racing . The only option i am using is regarding the shock springs and use sometimes the black one according some tracks.
Last 2 weeks , 2 races with the buggy with pretty much no maintenance in between and can reach and race 1 hour amain without any issue with the buggy. manage for a podium (3rd) and 9th (Radio box switch issue, i know i should not use such bloody switch lol).
just finish to service the buggy and even after 4 days of racing + 1 full day off practice jjust refill a bit bit the diff and change the schock oil thats all and the buggy is ready for another race;
If you are looking for a decent buggy with an affordable budget this is a winner for sure.
my 2 cents
Cheers
05-22-2014 | 08:13 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 312
From: France
My MBX6R US edition in action during last race Amain (Finish 9th)
My good friend MBX6R during the Same race
The track :
It is a real pleasure to drive it.
My setup :
5/5/3 for the diffs
46T / 13T for gears
Shocks : 450/400 with 5 holes 1.35 black springs (10.7, 9.5)
Aka Impact
Alpha Lutz + 2081 pipe
Of course i am sure this kind of setup suit me mostly but the buggy was really easy to drive .
Cheers
My good friend MBX6R during the Same race
The track :
It is a real pleasure to drive it.
My setup :
5/5/3 for the diffs
46T / 13T for gears
Shocks : 450/400 with 5 holes 1.35 black springs (10.7, 9.5)
Aka Impact
Alpha Lutz + 2081 pipe
Of course i am sure this kind of setup suit me mostly but the buggy was really easy to drive .
Cheers
05-30-2014 | 07:00 AM
I have some parts for sale if anyone is interested. chassis, shock bodies w/caps, FR Graphite towers, steering assembly.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...is-shocks.html
Dennis
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...is-shocks.html
Dennis
07-01-2014 | 03:46 PM
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 11
From: Netherlands, Amsterdam
hi,
I have mbx6r, I would like to buy engine, I'm thinking about the novarossi engines, but I don't know which one, I have about 150€ for the engine.
And i don't have clutch, and really don't know which is good for the mugen.
thank you for any helping.
I have mbx6r, I would like to buy engine, I'm thinking about the novarossi engines, but I don't know which one, I have about 150€ for the engine.
And i don't have clutch, and really don't know which is good for the mugen.
thank you for any helping.