For a year I have been running the Xerun SCT-Pro ESC, HW 4700kv motor and Castle BEC without issue in my Tekno SC.

Replaced the fan once. I will admit I run on a large but very clean track (Mike's in Houston) most of the time.

Tell me step by step how u build them. I will try then and if I can't get it I'm gonna build em emulsion style. Like I said it might be the csi bladders I'm using, it's very hard to get the cap over and tightened down on them without them coming off which at that point it's no good.

I put my truck back together last night and this time I installed the shims that come with the BCE chassis and wow the front was tight. I was afraid I was gonna strip something or that it wasn't gonna hold up well with it being that tight.

Has anyone with the BCE chassis taken the motor mount or steering post's off since they got it?

Any idea how many AMPS the MMP is rated for? Castle's literature is pretty vague.

Ultimately I'm after a smoother power delivery (without breaking the bank) than my current "on/off" Castle MMP and 3800 sensorless 4 pole. Sounds like the HW motors are pretty smooth...

For the old hotwire you need a On The Go (OTG) cable. $20 from local stores, $1.70 from china in 2 weeks.
New hotwire 2.0 you don't need the OTG cable, just a micro to mini USB cable.
Hotwire now works with the newer androids so everyone's droid should work now. It also works with the gen 1 escs so everything is unlocked unless you have an iPhone.

I will see if I can find the cable I picked up and link to it if you don't mind waiting or just drop a twenty at best buy and your off and running.

Hi wreck sorry to see you are having so many issues,
Your build looks supper

We will send you out a return slip , and we can take a look
To see what's going on and make sure all is up to spec.

With so many racers 410 /EB having really
Good performance and on track racing results.
This issue seems weird

Running the chassis without the shims is not recommended


Also to let the others know ,always run your rear brace. It is a must.
With our chassis.

It's actually right out of the Tekno manual on bladder builds.

I'm not having all kinds of problems just seeing if anyone has encountered any of those 3 holes enlarging. The 2 under the steering post and the one under the motor mount. These three holes are the only ones on the chassis that are located in an area that has been milled out, so of course the chassis is thinner there. With all the other holes that have the full 3mm after the hole is countersunk it still has what looks like .5mm of material before reaching the other side of the chassis. But the 3 that are countersunk in the milled out are don't have that .5mm of extra material the countersink just goes right to the other side of the chassis making it very thin there and my holes have opened up. I put plumbers tape around the bottom of my screw to make up the difference because I was able to move the one steering post a little after being fully tightened. Now it obviously won't move once the post's are attached to the top brace so I don't know if the holes are gonna continue to get bigger or not. But I love the chassis and don't feel like tearing it apart again so I'm just gonna let it be and see what happens. Thanks for being willing to take a look at it though.

What do you mean by tight?

I have 3 tekno cars (Ultra light Buggy, EB48.2 and SCT410) all running the BCE chassis and haven't seen any issues with anything feeling tight. I cant think of how the shims would make anything feel tight. I would think it might feel tight without the shims since the diff cases wont be seating onto the chassis properly without the shims.

Can you describe what you mean a little more?


Edit.... You described it while I was typing this post. LOL

If you want smoother then go for the 4000kv HW motor vs the 4700. Still plenty of power even for the largest of tracks but more consistent delivery IMO.

From another forum, I found the MMP to be rated 65amps.
I'm not nearly as experienced as most of the posters here, but I do believe it to be true that you need a strong ESC to push the weight of the Tekno 410. The Castle stuff is great, and their customer service is spectacular (in my experiences), but the unsensored motor just doesn't have the turn-n-burn-giddy-up-an-go for the Tekno sct410.
Also, as said in a recent post on this thread, your track is going to dictate what you really need. I run a small track with less than an 80' straight. The sct pro/4700kv combo is way more than enough for it. It is right there with the Tekin 4300/RX8 combos.
The HW SCT Pro combo is a great bang for the buck. If you do get it, I recommend also getting a y-connector for programming the ESC with the LCD box. Unplugging the fan for programming can be hard on the plugs' wires, and just a general p.i.t.a.

I personally love my 4700 hobbywing with rx8 gen2.
I've tried the sct pro and had issues, though most don't have those problems.
Castle ESCs are worthless for racing. I liked their motors, but being sensorless killed that for racing too.

IMO the rx8 is worth every penny (but get a spare computer fan to solder to their connector once the fan fails), as are the hobbywing motors. If you cant afford the rx8, get the sct pro. The tekin motor is great too and you can't go wrong with it, but I find they run hotter and definitely cost more.

A lesser known company, Team Powers, also has a good valued short course motor that is similar to the hobbywing in performance, but at 4600kv. I'm waiting to see how the new trinity motor does, as only a couple reports are in on it so far and it is also an expensive motor.

I have the 2.o so I will look for a micro to mini sub cord. Thanks for the info bro.

The 2.o takes the mini like the old one correct? I have an android, Samsung note 3 but no one makes my Samsung power cord to a mini so guess I'm screwed. And to have to take something bigger than a phone sucks lol.