SC10 4x4 Thread
To be honest there are very few carpet tracks in the US. i would start with the clay setup, go up with the dif oils ( way up in the front) stiffest springs and sway bars, Front toe in, least amount of rear toe, short front and rear links. start from there and post your results!
Took a hard crash in practice, and now it appears the rear end is locked up. The front will spin together in the same direction and opposite direction with no problem. The rear wheels will spin in opposite directions very smoothly, but when I try to spin the rears together it's locked up. I did remove the spur gear to isolate the problem to the diff. Anyone have any experience with this kinda problem?
Took a hard crash in practice, and now it appears the rear end is locked up. The front will spin together in the same direction and opposite direction with no problem. The rear wheels will spin in opposite directions very smoothly, but when I try to spin the rears together it's locked up. I did remove the spur gear to isolate the problem to the diff. Anyone have any experience with this kinda problem?
Tech Adept
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 174
Hey everyone,
I'm rather new to the 4x4 sc class and i was hoping someone could give me some advice on setups? I joined the sc 4x4 class mid way through the season and struggled. So this year i'd like to find something that works. The track I'm running on is an outdoor, clay, rather large, 1/8 scale track. As for power, I'm running a mamba max pro with a novak 5.5 ballistic motor powered by a 50c gensace. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
I'm rather new to the 4x4 sc class and i was hoping someone could give me some advice on setups? I joined the sc 4x4 class mid way through the season and struggled. So this year i'd like to find something that works. The track I'm running on is an outdoor, clay, rather large, 1/8 scale track. As for power, I'm running a mamba max pro with a novak 5.5 ballistic motor powered by a 50c gensace. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Hey everyone,
I'm rather new to the 4x4 sc class and i was hoping someone could give me some advice on setups? I joined the sc 4x4 class mid way through the season and struggled. So this year i'd like to find something that works. The track I'm running on is an outdoor, clay, rather large, 1/8 scale track. As for power, I'm running a mamba max pro with a novak 5.5 ballistic motor powered by a 50c gensace. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
I'm rather new to the 4x4 sc class and i was hoping someone could give me some advice on setups? I joined the sc 4x4 class mid way through the season and struggled. So this year i'd like to find something that works. The track I'm running on is an outdoor, clay, rather large, 1/8 scale track. As for power, I'm running a mamba max pro with a novak 5.5 ballistic motor powered by a 50c gensace. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
- What is the setup you finalized on before the end of the season?
- What areas did you feel you were lacking compared to other vehicles?
- What are you willing to upgrade, this includes electronics, etc if suggested?
Tech Adept
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 174
I did feel like I lacked speed so a quicker gearing setup would solve that. The truck would spin out if I bearly turned it On the front stretch, which is the fastestest part of the track. The truck on some days would lack pradictability. I didn't have confidence about really driving out of the corner, or really pressing it's limit. The line between controlable and uncontrollable was super fine. I had trouble clearing the doubles but again I think that was due to the gearing. I have a smaller spur (58) that planing on installing. What springs and shock oil would you recommend? Thanks so much for getting back so quickly!
I forgot to mention, I do have the exotec chassis, and I have the chassis brace as well. At the end of the season I was running 10k front diff, 5k rear. 40wt shock oil in the front, 30wt in the rear. Stock springs. -2 camber front -1 in the rear. Ride hight was driveshafts parralel to the ground. I am running the 5mm setup in the rear to reduce roll. Medium sway bar in the front, lightest in the rear. 12t pinion on stock spur.
I did feel like I lacked speed so a quicker gearing setup would solve that. The truck would spin out if I bearly turned it On the front stretch, which is the fastestest part of the track. The truck on some days would lack pradictability. I didn't have confidence about really driving out of the corner, or really pressing it's limit. The line between controlable and uncontrollable was super fine. I had trouble clearing the doubles but again I think that was due to the gearing. I have a smaller spur (58) that planing on installing. What springs and shock oil would you recommend? Thanks so much for getting back so quickly!
I did feel like I lacked speed so a quicker gearing setup would solve that. The truck would spin out if I bearly turned it On the front stretch, which is the fastestest part of the track. The truck on some days would lack pradictability. I didn't have confidence about really driving out of the corner, or really pressing it's limit. The line between controlable and uncontrollable was super fine. I had trouble clearing the doubles but again I think that was due to the gearing. I have a smaller spur (58) that planing on installing. What springs and shock oil would you recommend? Thanks so much for getting back so quickly!
- M2C Rear toe in Block
- RC Shox Center Diff
using the M2C rear toe in block to get more rear toe in really helps plant the vehicle. and the RC Shox Center Diff from what I have seen and others is a real improvement over the Slipper setup. Getting that rear end to plant will give you the confidence you need. On the dust bowl loose conditions here the truck was so back i could do spins down the straight. it was that bad before the M2C toe in block. with it, I could literally pitch the truck nearly side ways off of jumps hit the ground and confidently power through turns.
Outside of that, if you need quick turn ability as well as traction, you could try even lighter diff oil weight, this is what I did on my teknos for technical tracks but its something you have to be used to driving. The hudy guide in combination with the pavadis guide gives a nice breakdown of settings and what they do.
If you find you are in the market for a new motor, I personally would suggest a 540 4 pole motor at a minimum to give you more grunt than you are seeing now. Depending on track size, you may find just going with the 4600kv version best to start with. 4000kv Tekin though is a great small to medium track motor.
Tuning it with boost software (VERY LITTLE, like 5 degreees) and only at a high RPM starting point works well to get more top speed. Thats what I had to do to keep temps reasonable.
All in all, my most enjoyment with the truck outside of the parts you already have came from buying the RC Shox Center Diff, pistons, and M2C Rear toe in block.
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,595
From: Illinois
Has any one mounted the pro line flow tek evo body on there 4x4 yet.
i was trying to line this bad boy up so i can paint. It either the back are off and the front fit or the back are on the dot then the fronts are off.
Right now im thinking of going with the rear end holes first.
then try to work the front. either way it goes you gonna have to hack the body to get it to fit. Yes i did get the pre cut 4x4 body it is longer. the raptor fit like a charm lol. Dont know how proline got this one out of wack.
i was trying to line this bad boy up so i can paint. It either the back are off and the front fit or the back are on the dot then the fronts are off.
Right now im thinking of going with the rear end holes first.
then try to work the front. either way it goes you gonna have to hack the body to get it to fit. Yes i did get the pre cut 4x4 body it is longer. the raptor fit like a charm lol. Dont know how proline got this one out of wack.



5Likes
.
