Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Team Associated TC6 Thread >

Team Associated TC6 Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree20Likes

Team Associated TC6 Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-25-2014 | 10:02 AM
  #10021  
scooby61's Avatar
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 340
From: Manassas Virginia
Default

What's the downside if any to switching the spool outdrives to the steel ones?
scooby61 is offline  
Old 03-25-2014 | 10:47 AM
  #10022  
YoDog's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,002
From: Gilroy, Ca.
Default

Originally Posted by scooby61
What's the downside if any to switching the spool outdrives to the steel ones?
Broken shafts if you tend to hit stuff. Otherwise, they are pretty nice.
Since the car is typically under weight, the steel parts will add a little weight fairly low in the chassis. I ordered them to try. I already use the RSD aluminum pieces on my TC6.2.
YoDog is offline  
Old 03-25-2014 | 10:58 AM
  #10023  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (185)
 
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 5,307
Default

Originally Posted by YoDog
Broken shafts if you tend to hit stuff. Otherwise, they are pretty nice.
Since the car is typically under weight, the steel parts will add a little weight fairly low in the chassis. I ordered them to try. I already use the RSD aluminum pieces on my TC6.2.
If you want to add weight DONT ADD rotation mass. Add it onto the chass in the center l/r f/b as much as possible.

As for the benefit of running the steel ones they dont break when you hit the wall really hard. However your blades will break and you must watch and check every round. Having a missing blade could simulate something similar to tweak. Also its rotating mass so if you dont brake the stock ones its alright. However if you run mod it might be a good idea, because you can out motor the weight.
thecaptain is offline  
Old 03-25-2014 | 04:46 PM
  #10024  
scooby61's Avatar
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 340
From: Manassas Virginia
Default

Originally Posted by thecaptain
If you want to add weight DONT ADD rotation mass. Add it onto the chass in the center l/r f/b as much as possible.

As for the benefit of running the steel ones they dont break when you hit the wall really hard. However your blades will break and you must watch and check every round. Having a missing blade could simulate something similar to tweak. Also its rotating mass so if you dont brake the stock ones its alright. However if you run mod it might be a good idea, because you can out motor the weight.
I'm running mod with 7.5 turn I've got the steel ones on order but will wait till I break the plastic
scooby61 is offline  
Old 03-25-2014 | 05:40 PM
  #10025  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (185)
 
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 5,307
Default

Originally Posted by scooby61
I'm running mod with 7.5 turn I've got the steel ones on order but will wait till I break the plastic
Well then when you switch check often for broken blades.
thecaptain is offline  
Old 03-25-2014 | 05:40 PM
  #10026  
AE-Reedy
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 811
Default

The steel spool outdrives do not require blades, so that is one less thing to worry about breaking. However it will put more stress on the actual CVA components. I still think it is a good trade off though.
Sean Cochran is offline  
Old 03-27-2014 | 01:31 PM
  #10027  
jpx's Avatar
jpx
Tech Adept
 
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 230
From: Germany
Red face

Originally Posted by thecaptain
Anti squat is rear. Referring to the angle of the pin when the front mount is higher. Kick up and anti dive are the front.
sure - sorry, I mixed it up!
jpx is offline  
Old 03-27-2014 | 10:54 PM
  #10028  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (21)
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,808
From: Texas
Default

I just picked up a TC6 as my first entry into on-road. I'll be running a carpet track with the longest straight being 110' long. What would be a good place to start with gearing running an 8.5t non-boosted? The spur gear currently on the car is a 96t 64p.

Thanks!
MX304 is offline  
Old 03-31-2014 | 09:36 AM
  #10029  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (18)
 
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 238
From: K-Town
Default

I bought a tc6 to race vta.I'm new to on road racing and I was wanting to get a FDR of 4. I was wonder what is a good spur and pinion combo to get.I didn't want to buy some that give you the right FDR and they not fit.Done that once not fun!
purpleturk is offline  
Old 03-31-2014 | 09:46 AM
  #10030  
Brian McGreevy's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,082
From: Illinois
Default

Originally Posted by purpleturk
I bought a tc6 to race vta.I'm new to on road racing and I was wanting to get a FDR of 4. I was wonder what is a good spur and pinion combo to get.I didn't want to buy some that give you the right FDR and they not fit.Done that once not fun!
For even relatively small on-road tracks, you'll want to be between 3.5-3.7 FDR, depending on the timing your motor needs to run its best. I'd recommend a spur of between 86 and 92 teeth. Pinion sizes between 46 and 52 teeth.
Brian McGreevy is offline  
Old 03-31-2014 | 10:59 AM
  #10031  
YoDog's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,002
From: Gilroy, Ca.
Default

Originally Posted by purpleturk
I bought a tc6 to race vta.I'm new to on road racing and I was wanting to get a FDR of 4. I was wonder what is a good spur and pinion combo to get.I didn't want to buy some that give you the right FDR and they not fit.Done that once not fun!
I'd have to agree that you want to have a lower FDR but to answer your question directly, use 96t spur with a 48t pinion 64 Pitch to achieve a 4.0 FDR that will fit.
There is actually a simple rule of thumb to go by to determine what will fit. I think it was between 140 and 150 total tooth count. I may be off a bit but if you stay around 145t total, you should be good to go.
YoDog is offline  
Old 03-31-2014 | 01:28 PM
  #10032  
AE-Reedy
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 811
Default

Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
For even relatively small on-road tracks, you'll want to be between 3.5-3.7 FDR, depending on the timing your motor needs to run its best. I'd recommend a spur of between 86 and 92 teeth. Pinion sizes between 46 and 52 teeth.
The instruction manual has a chart in the back that shows what will fit.
If 4:1 is what you want a 100/50 looks optimum to me as it gives you the most up down range.
Sean Cochran is offline  
Old 03-31-2014 | 01:33 PM
  #10033  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (21)
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,808
From: Texas
Default

*delete

Last edited by MX304; 03-31-2014 at 02:21 PM.
MX304 is offline  
Old 03-31-2014 | 03:55 PM
  #10034  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (185)
 
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 5,307
Default

Originally Posted by Sean Cochran
The instruction manual has a chart in the back that shows what will fit.
If 4:1 is what you want a 100/50 looks optimum to me as it gives you the most up down range.
See I thought that too until, I went to a larger track, an average size track and I need to go down to a 96 to get the gearing I wanted. I agree with Yodog 96 48
thecaptain is offline  
Old 03-31-2014 | 04:21 PM
  #10035  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (18)
 
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 238
From: K-Town
Default

The track I'm at is kinda small no real straight away just curve then corner.
purpleturk is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.