They would have to re-tool for metric hardware but could see a further edition of the B44 until a new one is produced

FQ thanks for that. I run at the same track as Bakofarmer. They layout we got right now has a lot of 180's and there is 3 of us running AE's. One is a true 44.1 then farmer's with a 44.2 with the arms modded shorter and mine is a true 44.2. We are all having problems. The kyoshos X-rays and durangos handle the track pretty well and we are just all over the place. I've tried softer springs softer oils heavier oils moving rear hubs forward moving them back nothing works. Problem isn't steering. Car has too much steering. Problem is back end washing out in the right 180's. The problem with them is they are fast short straights into the 180. Hit the brakes and car just washes around

A slightly tighter rear diff can help control the car on turn in, more aggressive under power coming out of the turn but easier to control slide if it happens... but don't loosen the front to try to get the same thing... they are independent.

How much brake do you run? I run about 35 to 40 on the ESC (cant remember) so I can not skid in a straight line and once I am slow it barely stops itself. Just a thought. Also, no active braking... not sure what ESC you are using but that will usually boost braking for on road guys.

stiffer front end so it doesn't roll/hook so bad.

Skaol is this Godwin
I run a flowworks team esc
With no drag brake and about 60%
EPA on my brake no lock up
I have run my diffs loose, tight with and without
Sway bar
The back end just will not stop washing out
Especially under power such as swinging a turn than getting
On the throttle
Farmer

Farmer, yes this is Godwin. We both seem to be having the same problem and I just can't seem to find a fix. The car is great everywhere on the track but the 180's. My brakes are on the high side but has nothing to do with the car washing out. The car brakes in a straight line. I have no drag brake. I hit the 180's half way through the turn and accelerate and the car washes around. I'm not going to loosen the slipper because that is just a band-aid. It does not fix the problem. I'm up to try anything

While I have never experienced this in off road before, in an onroad touring car you would want to stiffen the front, like stiffer springs to keep the weight from transferring to the front. Also you could make sure you have 1 or no limiters in the rear to get more down travel of the suspension. Could also try some toe in in the front so it doesn't turn as hard initially.

Farmer I had the same issues with mine. First off go with the aluminum rear ballast and delrin front. Also take out some droop from the front. I don't know what traction is like there but might try the black sway bar as well.
My setup is mostly coaches setup from the avid site I believe.

Is your initial drive set to the lowest setting?
The slipper is a tuning tool, I adjust for available traction. The buggy will still run like a bat outa hell with a looser slipper setting it just softens the initial torque allowed to hit the drivetrain. It is especially beneficial when trying to eliminate the above bolded sentence.

If you can run a tight slipper with the traction available at your track, great. If you are doing doughnuts while everyone else is driving towards the next corner, losing a little straight line acceleration with a slightly looser slipper but being able to stay with the train to the next corner will net you a better finishing position.

Many suggestions made, try them one at a time till you can get your buggy locked in and competitive. Stiffer spring in the front as suggested a couple times is a logical step along with the other adjustments, which one or combo of them gets you locked in? Test & tune to find out

Does the b4 sc10 and b44.2 use the same diff rings and diff balls? Looking at getting 2 mip diffs kits for my 44.2 and wanna make sure there all the same

Yes but u will need to get the b44 diff rings

so whats the general consensus on anti squat
em i correct by saying that adding washers will add anti squat and removing them takes away anti squat
and adding more anti squat will give you more forward traction on power and better jumping
as removing anti squat will give you more side bite traction on throttle and better ruff track traction
also when we talk about adding and removing washers on the tower ball stud
with the b44.2
since the ball stud is on the bottom we have to talk about this in the opposite
compared to a standard top mounted ball stud
for example to raise the roll center on a standard top mounted ball stud you would remove washers to lower the ball stud
but on a bottom mounted ball stud on the .2 you would have to add washers to raise the roll center
correct?
dont really know if im thinking in the rite direction ?
farmer

Correct and correct.

It's been my experience that more antisquat gives you more on power steering and will jump a little higher. It's just like running a stiffer spring.

Guys,

What alternatives exist for a pre-painted body to fit the B44.2?

I consider getting the kit, but there is no way I would be able to paint the body...

Are there other options?