Thanx for the info WC

I'm not at home so I can't out my hands on a manual but you can download the 44.2 manual and get the screw sizes. I think the tower is 3mm so add that amount to the screw size in the manual. I will measure when I get home but almost positive they are 3mm.

I see something closer to the current Yokomo BMAX 4 as a possibility.

Hideeho
I went & looked up the bmax4 III. As it turns out, other than using a shorty, I described the Yokomo to a "T".

anyword on a new AE 4wd?

Tower is 4mm thick... actually like 3.8 but call it 4mm.
Just add that length to the screw lengths in the manual and your good.

Sounds like that goal post triple is a money maker for the track

Will the 44.1 battery tray fit in the 44.2 chassis?

No I tried

Thanks! The 2WD'S roll it. But all the 4wd's jump it so gotta keep up.

And they definitely sell a good 3-4 towers every club night

Lol i cracked mine and just put some CA on it and pressed it down with the plyers and ima run it for now lol

ok guys im having some problems with my .2
im running
Front 35, 1.6, blues 21mm
rear 30, 1.7,greens 20mm
2mm rear arm mod
barcodes clay coumpound F/R red aka inserts
7.5 lrp flowworks team
60%epa
avid chassis
rear ballast avid steel weight plus 42grams
everything else box stock
indoor track medium to low grip clay wet to dusty


cant get the rear to settle down there is no confidence
what changes could i do to get more confidence inspiring traction
especially on throttle
also if possible could you explain why those changes will give me traction so
i can understand
you know the saying
instead of just giving me a fish
please show me how
thx farmer

Anyone have any spring, oil, and piston recommendations for small bore shocks with BB springs? Running on a small/medium outdoor track with no large jumps. Any help or starting points would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Best thing to do is try things one at a time, if it doesn't help, change it back to how you had it and go to the next change.
Run you slipper looser, less initial power delivery spike, like traction control. Set it to just have enough power to get you over the biggest jump.
Try the black rear sway bar instead of silver, allows the chassis to roll more.
Try the ackerman hole in the front of the link, calms down steering at the expense of less aggressive steering in slow tight turns. Check your toe out and endpoints after changing.
Less front toe out, less entrance steering, more exit steering.
You can change the roll center with camber links but for now try those and if that doesn't get it report back.

The arm mod shortens the wheel base to try to get to 44.1 length? Go back to 44.2 length, that should calm down the chassis and it also affects the angle of the rear driveshaft and if its pushing the tires into the ground or pulling them up from it.
You have unintended consequences when you go that much further forward than AE intended the arm and axle angle to be. Angle the axle too far forward and it wants to lift the chassis like adding more anti squat.

Maybe others have suggestions past that.

Farmer it's not just you buddy. The track is just not very forgiving with all the fast 180* turns in it. Last Friday I went to f 32.5 blues 1.7 and rear 27.5 green 1.7 with the rear hubs all the way forward. Car was better but still not the way I wanted it. I went out last night and the car seemed worse, I moved the hubs all the way back and not any better (or worse). I think I'm gonna try loosening the front diff and moving the rear camber links out one hole. It sucks cuz my 2wd buggy is really good right now and my 4wd just went to shit. Try moving that rear camber link out 1 hole tho. I did that on my 2wd and it was a great move

Loosening the front diff may make it worse. Front should be 1/16 out from tight and rear should be 1/8 out from tight. A tighter front than rear will make the front pull it out of a turn, more understeer than oversteer.

A shorter rear link should give you more steering and a little more straight line traction.
Longer link decreases the camber gain and makes it less responsive and slower camber change through the arms travel.
Razathorn... RC direction correct?

With that said, its real easy to make these changes at the track. Try it and see, if its worse, put it back and try something else

+1 any idea when we might see a new version with gear diffs and metric hardware???