When you have the default timing insert in the motor, i believe the motor timing is 37.5 degrees(correct me if i am wrong)
This with the timing on the esc when using stock maps can be with the wrong FDR be to much and smoke the LRP motor.
What track are you running with what car??
Spur? pinion?

Regards Roy

Any word on the ROAR approval of the V3.1 1-cell model?

yes could be 37.5, i'm running a fdr of 5.8 in a ta06, before the set was in a tt01 m-chassis conversion running about the same fdr.
so thats not to much i guess..
last time i had to change sensor wire after the sensors got lost (esc blinking green/red).
The motor and the esc dont feel hot btw, can easely touch them..

.

Ok this may be a silly question and may have been answered already but how is it best to set up the esc,motor and gearing for booted TC?
High esc timing, low motor timing, high fdr?
Low esc timing, high motor timing, low fdr?
Middle of the road on all 3?
Is it track/motor dependant?
Any help/advice would be great
Thanks
Paul

Thanks for the feed back.
I changed the motor with one of the same make but it was the same. I lowered the timing and it seemed to work with the car on the ground. I'll test it out on the track. Is it possible that the V3.1- 1 cell it just will not work with all motors?

A lot of it depends on the motor. All motors have a point at which adding more timing (ESC or Endbell) just creates more heat and no extra power. But it varies from motor to motor so you'll need a dyno to figure out exactly what the maximum settings should be. Even then it may not be possible to run those settings as it may still overheat.

Gearing is track, grip and motor dependent. If you've got wheelspin off the corners gear up. If it feels sluggish gear down. On a small/tight track you'll need a smaller gearing to keep the motor RPMs up in the peak power band. On a big track you'll need a bigger gearing, again to keep the motor in its peak power band.

The easiest option is to find someone fast (with the same motor/esc as you) and steal their settings.

wow it amazing! 9club

Thanks - stealing setting is fine but I'm a bit sad in that I like to understand the details of what's happening when setting up speedo,motor and gearing to get the best. The info you've provided is great.
Next question then is what order should you begin the setup process of these 3 things?
Start by getting the gearing right then fine tune the speedo and motor timing? Or get the timing right and play with the gearing?

Hi guys, I have a xerun 2.1.
Are there any controindications to run with 3s lipo and 5600 Kv motor ?
Everyone use 2s, so I have no informations with a possible use at 3s, but I think this should imply lower ampere so better efficient and low temp.
Any opinions ?

As Dale has said motor timing is dependant on the motor itself (having found the sweet spot i always left it alone).
Esc timing is track dependant.
Gearing for boosted 13.5 i always ran a FDR of about 7.00.

At a new track i would adjust in this order

Boost and turbo
Gearing (if after altering boost and turbo it still seemed slow)

V10 hobbywing 13.5 motors
Any thoughts anyone
Is there a version one and two?
Thanks in advance

Thanks, I'll have a play

ok guys. I've been following this thread for a little while and this Saturday was the first day I got to run my Justock in an actual event. Its running the latest '508_notiming' firmware (at least according to the program, there is no other version out there) - and I have the LCD box and the software..Running USVTA rules with the novak ballistic 25.5 motor

so here's my issue - how the heck do you get more brakes out of it?? I'm running the brake force set of 87.5% (radio EPA is set at 140%) and it still feels like it just slows the car down, not stops it. If I had to jam on the brakes to avoid driving thru another driver, I'm up the creek - there's nothing there to stop.

I tried setting the brake EPA at 100%, then increasing it on the radio - nothing
Messed with expodential, positive AND negative - nothing
changed drag brake in the software - nothing

so what's the trick?? I'm used to speedos where you need to set it with less brakes because the 'standard' setups are too strong. I've run several other brands before switching, so I'm fairly certain its not something I have wrong in the settings.

help?!?!?!?!?

on a plus side - this has got to be the SMOOTHEST speedo I've ever run. Can't wait to throw my 1s in my 12th scale

Try setting the ESC brake level to 100%, and also make sure when you calibrate the brakes that the EPA is at 100%. Then put the reverse speed to 100%. Sounds weird, but this can have an effect on the brake level of some speedo's.

HiH
Ed