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Old 01-07-2014 | 07:42 PM
  #1396  
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Originally Posted by 22Racer
I am not a big fan of Os plugs but they will work fine, just dont overtighten them. The P3 is too hot and can mask a improperly tuned engine.
I have ran the 0801 pipe on many engines and it works well on anything. I have not ran the Tb-1 but it is a great pipe for the price. I am pretty sure Argus would not be selling it if it didnt work well with there engines.

Rex
Rex,

What plug would you recomend running in the Argus motors and also what fuel would you also recomend I have been running Powermaster last year and a Morgan brand of fuel for the few years before that and I am looking at changing fuels and will be sending you a copy of resume as well as I already know a couple of the guys that have signed on and we will be running together this year. I have been running the Alpha motors for the last 4 or so years so already know what to expect.
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Old 01-07-2014 | 09:29 PM
  #1397  
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Originally Posted by joeyp1997
Rex,

What plug would you recomend running in the Argus motors and also what fuel would you also recomend I have been running Powermaster last year and a Morgan brand of fuel for the few years before that and I am looking at changing fuels and will be sending you a copy of resume as well as I already know a couple of the guys that have signed on and we will be running together this year. I have been running the Alpha motors for the last 4 or so years so already know what to expect.
If you have ran the Os plugs and like them that is fine, I guess I am not a fan of Os in general. I would say a Picco/ Werks #5, Od 97t would be good choices. I might have to get some of the Argus plugs as they seem to be working pretty good.
Run a fuel that has some castor or add castor to it. I have used a morgan fuel the last couple years and liked it. Byrons is always good.

Rex
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Old 01-15-2014 | 08:34 PM
  #1398  
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Got an R8 on the way, will post result once broken in, thanks Rex.
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Old 01-20-2014 | 04:33 PM
  #1399  
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The 2014 Argus team is building up nicely, thanks for all that sent resume's. I still have a few more spots open, send the resume's to [email protected]

Rex

I have had a few ask about the cranks, you could say they are factory modified, they come like this stock.

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Old 01-20-2014 | 04:48 PM
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That looks almost as purdy as the crank in my R8.
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Old 02-12-2014 | 07:11 PM
  #1401  
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Finished breaking in the R8 on the bench with quart of 25% Powermaster containing an ounce of caster. Gonna drop in the truggy this weekend and was wondering which pipe would work the best 0801, 2071, 053, 086, 2013.
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Old 02-12-2014 | 07:46 PM
  #1402  
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Originally Posted by killerkustoms
Finished breaking in the R8 on the bench with quart of 25% Powermaster containing an ounce of caster. Gonna drop in the truggy this weekend and was wondering which pipe would work the best 0801, 2071, 053, 086, 2013.
0801 is usually really good, do you mean 2017? That pipe is for the Lutz which is the same as the R8 so that would be great also. I have never ran the 2017 though. 2013 if you are looking for alot of bottom.

Rex
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Old 02-16-2014 | 10:42 PM
  #1403  
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Werks 2058 is incredible on an alpha so should be on one of these
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Old 02-16-2014 | 11:11 PM
  #1404  
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as far as i know, for alpha, 0801 for best runtime and power throughout the revrange. 2081 for most bottom end and next best runtime, cant remember top end pipes, i use the 2081 with alpha A852 for lots of bottom end. the 2107 alpha lutz pipe has changable stingers for adjustable power band
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Old 02-17-2014 | 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by rcmania74
Werks 2058 is incredible on an alpha so should be on one of these
did you try any of the other pipes yet. Im gonna try out the tb-1. Gonna see how it pulls a .23 in a truggy around. New year new pipe new engine. I already know the 0801 pipe works great for the alpha models. so since i have the werks and 0801 pipe i guess i can try all 3 of them out and see what really works. the best for runtime and power.
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Old 03-06-2014 | 06:45 AM
  #1406  
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Exclamation argus A5 carb factory needle setting

hello,

i just replaced my A5 piston/sleeve and i can't get it started like first i got it, can anyone help with:

1. idle gap:_____
2. LSN:_____
3. HSN: ______

what i get from page 50 is:
1. LSN: 1/2 turn in from flush
2. HSN: 1/2 turn out from flush-but it will die when i remove the igniter. thanks in advance
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Old 03-06-2014 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by cczjordan
hello,

i just replaced my A5 piston/sleeve and i can't get it started like first i got it, can anyone help with:

1. idle gap:_____
2. LSN:_____
3. HSN: ______

what i get from page 50 is:
1. LSN: 1/2 turn in from flush
2. HSN: 1/2 turn out from flush-but it will die when i remove the igniter. thanks in advance
Your needle setting sound fine for break in. i would put your idle gap around .07 to 1 mill for the first two tanks if you got a lot of fuel coming out you pipe making the idle gap bigger will keep it running. also check your plug. then after a couple of tanks at idle i would put you idle gap to about .05 then lean out the top and bottom some . don't be afraid to use the iginter to keep it running you are probably really rich at those setting which is a good thing cause it will help flush out the engine. i hope you do know you do have to re break in that new piston set. if this does not work lean out your high just a little closer to flush and go from there. if you need an good i ball park on you idle setting look at you credit card. that is around the 7 ball park area. or stick in the 7mm reducer and get it as close to the reducer as possible. those should give you a good ball park area after you done a couple of tanks at idle hope this help if not just ask we get there.
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Old 03-06-2014 | 02:55 PM
  #1408  
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Originally Posted by cczjordan
hello,

i just replaced my A5 piston/sleeve and i can't get it started like first i got it, can anyone help with:

1. idle gap:_____
2. LSN:_____
3. HSN: ______

what i get from page 50 is:
1. LSN: 1/2 turn in from flush
2. HSN: 1/2 turn out from flush-but it will die when i remove the igniter. thanks in advance

Idle gap .7 but wider would not hurt for break in
lsn I would start 1/2 turn in from flush.
Hsn 1/2 turn in from flush sounds good.

If it does not seem to suck fuel take the carb apart and clean it. I have seen old fuel gum up after sitting. While it is apart put some fine 600 grit sandpaper on a smooth surface and sand both side of the banjo fitting in the hsn assy.

Rex
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Old 03-11-2014 | 04:40 AM
  #1409  
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Default Argus A5

Thanks guys, it was a success.

Actually how many litre to fully break in this engine, my old 1 break in for 15tanks.

I'm asking for recommendations since the pinch is crazy after 12 tank with heat cycling method
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Old 03-11-2014 | 01:00 PM
  #1410  
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Originally Posted by cczjordan
Thanks guys, it was a success.

Actually how many litre to fully break in this engine, my old 1 break in for 15tanks.

I'm asking for recommendations since the pinch is crazy after 12 tank with heat cycling method
you will most likely have mechanical pinch up to about a gallon and a half or two. then it will drop it nuts and when that happens you will know cause you will have to re-tune it a little. but you do not have to be easy on it. i normally i put a small race tune on mine right after break is done. but leave it rich just a little. after i get a couple of track races on it i think i go to a fall balls out race tune around the gallon mark. this is the same gallon i use for break in just so you know. i also think i play it a little safer then some might. some people are full race tune right after break in. but i play it safe cause the track will give it true testing in a race.
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