The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread
#7294
I am wanting to minimize chassis slap and allow more roll in the corners. I race on an outdoor bumpy track. I was thinking about tying 1.3x4 pistons in the rear. My understanding is more small holes = more pack, but also more low speed roll.
Here is my track.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qyG...JV_i33VjYn47zw
Here is my track.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qyG...JV_i33VjYn47zw
#7296
I am wanting to minimize chassis slap and allow more roll in the corners. I race on an outdoor bumpy track. I was thinking about tying 1.3x4 pistons in the rear. My understanding is more small holes = more pack, but also more low speed roll.
Here is my track.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qyG...JV_i33VjYn47zw
Here is my track.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qyG...JV_i33VjYn47zw
22wt oil in the rear.
1.5 flat pistions with 27.5 weight oil in the front.
still needs some tuning but it doesn't slap as hard like the 1.7s did
#7297
Is this a new servo and radio system? Have you used the same combo in the past on this car or another? Some servos require glitch busters in the receiver to work properly, such as savox servos with low powered spektrum receivers.
#7298
Just run it till it quits and buy a new one. Mine does it to. I cant remember what its called but its trying to find center. If you touch it it will quit.
#7299
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 169
Yeah but sometimes it won't stop!!! I gotta keep turning it for a little bit to make it stop!! I went cheap I have the orange receiver and a turnigy trakstar ts-920 would a glitch buster work or should I just order a new servo because sending it back probably wont be worth it
#7300
Yeah but sometimes it won't stop!!! I gotta keep turning it for a little bit to make it stop!! I went cheap I have the orange receiver and a turnigy trakstar ts-920 would a glitch buster work or should I just order a new servo because sending it back probably wont be worth it
#7304
Hi Guys,
I have a original B44 that i have updated with all the parts to bring it to a B44.1 except for the chassis its still the original one with the holes for the old 6c battery's.
I want to update it to a B44.2.
Has anyone installed the Avid Aluminum Chassis upgrade for b44.2 to an original b44 and if so have there been any problems with fit out?
Thanks in advance !!!
I have a original B44 that i have updated with all the parts to bring it to a B44.1 except for the chassis its still the original one with the holes for the old 6c battery's.
I want to update it to a B44.2.
Has anyone installed the Avid Aluminum Chassis upgrade for b44.2 to an original b44 and if so have there been any problems with fit out?
Thanks in advance !!!
#7305
A few posts back someone was talking about setting the slipper. I have always set the baseline for the slipper on the track with allen key in the slipper hole, the rear wheels in the air, pushing the fronts till they skidded. From there, maybe a quarter or half turn back or forward as grip changes. I find this to be the most consistent for the track and most logical way of setting it.
Shimming the diff's till they are just right takes feel and logical thought. Using your method of building diffs have never lost a diff gear in the past 6 months of racing (6.5turn)!
I cannot speak more highly of the information in your vids and highly recommend them to the newbies!! Hint: they're on the first post!




