17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
03-09-2014 | 07:01 AM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 84
From: Finland
Hello,
I have been breaking many stub axle´s and the same thing have happened to many drivers at our tracks.
I have contacted Tekno about this matter and they said that the problem was only for some of the first batches when they had a hardening issue at the production line.
Have other dirver´s had problems with this issue still? My axles are quite new and they are also breaking. It it sad when this car is so great and it really is also bulletproof and this is a critcal issue. If you brake axle in the race you sure will not get to the finnish line -that is also what happened to me.
I might go to 17 mm hub adapters but will it increase the car´s track width?
I have been breaking many stub axle´s and the same thing have happened to many drivers at our tracks.
I have contacted Tekno about this matter and they said that the problem was only for some of the first batches when they had a hardening issue at the production line.
Have other dirver´s had problems with this issue still? My axles are quite new and they are also breaking. It it sad when this car is so great and it really is also bulletproof and this is a critcal issue. If you brake axle in the race you sure will not get to the finnish line -that is also what happened to me.
I might go to 17 mm hub adapters but will it increase the car´s track width?
Last edited by mamyllyn; 03-09-2014 at 07:38 AM.
03-09-2014 | 07:38 AM
The broken axle issue hasn't been in this thread for a long time. You broke replacement axles? Or the ones that came in the kit?
When & where did you get your kit?
Did it come with black front & pink rear springs?
Yes, the aluminum 1/8 hex conversion will put it at buggy width. The plastic 17mm hex wouldn't help with your issue and those break within a couple laps.
When & where did you get your kit?
Did it come with black front & pink rear springs?
Yes, the aluminum 1/8 hex conversion will put it at buggy width. The plastic 17mm hex wouldn't help with your issue and those break within a couple laps.
03-09-2014 | 07:55 AM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 84
From: Finland
The broken axle issue hasn't been in this thread for a long time. You broke replacement axles? Or the ones that came in the kit?
When & where did you get your kit?
Did it come with black front & pink rear springs?
Yes, the aluminum 1/8 hex conversion will put it at buggy width.
When & where did you get your kit?
Did it come with black front & pink rear springs?
Yes, the aluminum 1/8 hex conversion will put it at buggy width.
This is the only part which needs to be still improved.
03-09-2014 | 08:05 AM
That's odd. 6 months on my kit axles (knocking on wood as I type this).
Thought maybe you got a kit that sat on the shelf of a LHS for the past year. A Mains parts can't be old stuff, thought maybe your LHS may have had old parts but guess not.
Thought maybe you got a kit that sat on the shelf of a LHS for the past year. A Mains parts can't be old stuff, thought maybe your LHS may have had old parts but guess not.
03-09-2014 | 08:39 AM
Tech Prophet
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,997
From: levittown pa
Really though i dont think there worth it the stock shafts feel smooth to me. Although there worth it wear wise with the coated shafts and dont ding up as much !
03-09-2014 | 08:48 AM
That could be it right there. What servo? Savox?
Are there any wires near the buttons on the ESC like the sensor wire with a hard plastic sheath on it?
I still think that's not enough lipo for this truck but it may not be the issue. The other guy that posted is way under geared and I think your running the correct 17 to 18 tooth pinion. That will make a difference in the amperage that the ESC is pulling from the pack.
Race spec with more capacity is the pack to have for a heavy 4x SCT.
To test it, put current limiter very low and run it to see if the issue persists. You might want to add a glitch buster to your RX also. Those are notorious for brown outs.
I still think that's not enough lipo for this truck but it may not be the issue. The other guy that posted is way under geared and I think your running the correct 17 to 18 tooth pinion. That will make a difference in the amperage that the ESC is pulling from the pack.
Race spec with more capacity is the pack to have for a heavy 4x SCT.
To test it, put current limiter very low and run it to see if the issue persists. You might want to add a glitch buster to your RX also. Those are notorious for brown outs.
Last edited by fq06; 03-09-2014 at 09:08 AM.
03-09-2014 | 09:14 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,486
From: Greenville, SC
Hey guys I have a problem with my gen 2. I posted this same thing in the RX8 thread but figured id do it here too since a lot of you guys run similar set up. It's brand new. Hooked up to a HD4300 motor in my tekno sct 410. I'm using brand new Smc 5000mah batteries. I get about 5 min run time until the ESC will shut down and restart every 30 seconds. I'll have no power, only steering. Once the ESC resets the truck will run just fine again for about 30 seconds and it will cut power and restart again. I know this because one of the guys was standing by the corner of the track when it happens and he hears the ESC restarting. Any ideas why this is happening? I check my batteries right after this happens and they are around 3.8v per cell still.
Honestly, I would look at bigger packs, 7200+
03-09-2014 | 09:18 AM
That could be it right there. What servo? Savox?
Are there any wires near the buttons on the ESC like the sensor wire with a hard plastic sheath on it?
I still think that's not enough lipo for this truck but it may not be the issue. The other guy that posted is way under geared and I think your running the correct 17 to 18 tooth pinion. That will make a difference in the amperage that the ESC is pulling from the pack.
Race spec with more capacity is the pack to have for a heavy 4x SCT.
To test it, put current limiter very low and run it to see if the issue persists. You might want to add a glitch buster to your RX also. Those are notorious for brown outs.
Are there any wires near the buttons on the ESC like the sensor wire with a hard plastic sheath on it?
I still think that's not enough lipo for this truck but it may not be the issue. The other guy that posted is way under geared and I think your running the correct 17 to 18 tooth pinion. That will make a difference in the amperage that the ESC is pulling from the pack.
Race spec with more capacity is the pack to have for a heavy 4x SCT.
To test it, put current limiter very low and run it to see if the issue persists. You might want to add a glitch buster to your RX also. Those are notorious for brown outs.
Ya I'm using a Savox servo. And ya using a 17 tooth pinion. Current was set to 80 at first. Then dropped it to 60 and same thing still happened.
03-09-2014 | 09:20 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (81)
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 947
From: Hammonton, NJ
Hey guys I have a problem with my gen 2. I posted this same thing in the RX8 thread but figured id do it here too since a lot of you guys run similar set up. It's brand new. Hooked up to a HD4300 motor in my tekno sct 410. I'm using brand new Smc 5000mah batteries. I get about 5 min run time until the ESC will shut down and restart every 30 seconds. I'll have no power, only steering. Once the ESC resets the truck will run just fine again for about 30 seconds and it will cut power and restart again. I know this because one of the guys was standing by the corner of the track when it happens and he hears the ESC restarting. Any ideas why this is happening? I check my batteries right after this happens and they are around 3.8v per cell still.
03-09-2014 | 09:22 AM
The sr301 RX and savox servo could be causing a brown out even with the 7a bec.
As said above, even if your pack has juice left the low mah and low c rating could be tripping the lvc. Voltage sag. You would not have as much sag with a pack that has more mah and higher discharge capability.
Is your sensor wire sitting on the buttons????
4 things...
Make sure a wire is not near the buttons.
Add a glitch buster
Put current limiter very low like 20.
Set brakes to where they barely skid under full braking at the end of the straight.
All good? No issue?
Now go to 100 current limiter and full braking. Problems back? Its your lipo.
As said above, even if your pack has juice left the low mah and low c rating could be tripping the lvc. Voltage sag. You would not have as much sag with a pack that has more mah and higher discharge capability.
Is your sensor wire sitting on the buttons????
4 things...
Make sure a wire is not near the buttons.
Add a glitch buster
Put current limiter very low like 20.
Set brakes to where they barely skid under full braking at the end of the straight.
All good? No issue?
Now go to 100 current limiter and full braking. Problems back? Its your lipo.
03-09-2014 | 09:24 AM
the reason fq asked about the servo and spektrum, is that assuming he's thinking the receiver is browning out. it doesn't sound like it to me because you still have steering when you lose power. when a receiver browns out, you lose all power to the receiver including steering before it comes back on. plus the new gen 2 esc's have a pretty stout BEC (like 7 amps or something).
to me it does sound like the LVC is kicking in. once that small pack (for this truck) gets lower on juice, it doesn't have enough to supply the amp draw and kicks the LVC on. what i would do is completely turn the LVC off for a run (time it and pull the truck after 8 minutes) and see if it still happens.
to me it does sound like the LVC is kicking in. once that small pack (for this truck) gets lower on juice, it doesn't have enough to supply the amp draw and kicks the LVC on. what i would do is completely turn the LVC off for a run (time it and pull the truck after 8 minutes) and see if it still happens.
03-09-2014 | 09:38 AM
Thanks for all the advice guys. No wires are hitting any of the buttons on the rx. And like mentioned, I don't think it's my radio and servo since the ESC itself is just simply shutting off and restarts, steering still works during this time. It must be my battery.. This will happen at about the 5 min mark and it will first do it right after a long straight and just after I'm braking hard into the first corner. I'm guessing the voltage is so low from this that the ESC won't even hit lvc and just simply shutdown and reset. But after it does, the truck goes fast and hard for about another 30 seconds or until that same part on the track and it will do it again and again.
03-09-2014 | 09:39 AM
the reason fq asked about the servo and spektrum, is that assuming he's thinking the receiver is browning out. it doesn't sound like it to me because you still have steering when you lose power. when a receiver browns out, you lose all power to the receiver including steering before it comes back on. plus the new gen 2 esc's have a pretty stout BEC (like 7 amps or something).
to me it does sound like the LVC is kicking in. once that small pack (for this truck) gets lower on juice, it doesn't have enough to supply the amp draw and kicks the LVC on. what i would do is completely turn the LVC off for a run (time it and pull the truck after 8 minutes) and see if it still happens.
to me it does sound like the LVC is kicking in. once that small pack (for this truck) gets lower on juice, it doesn't have enough to supply the amp draw and kicks the LVC on. what i would do is completely turn the LVC off for a run (time it and pull the truck after 8 minutes) and see if it still happens.
What's up with the beeping that that marshal heard?
sounds like a reboot from a wire hitting the mode button?For racerz... to disable lvc and try the above suggestion, set it to 4v. You can't turn off lvc on the RX8 but 4a or 3a is essentially disabled.