Can someone add a little more detail on the new BCE chassis.

How do they side pods mount up and use the new rear battery location?

Does the chassis omit the side attachments and if so they what happens to the electronics etc?


Thanks

OK. I have the ackerman forward and rear tower location is in 3. I will try the 27.5 in front to see what it does. Ran it last night and it's amazing how much more you enjoy racing when your truck feels dialed in. Knocked a couple seconds off my avg lap times.

Nice! Glad to hear your tune is coming along!

2 seconds off average time is huge! A hero lap time is cool, but if you can't get your truck easy to drive fast you won't do 5 minutes without a wreck. If you can get it to where you can run a main without putting it on its lid you'll be running at the front of the pack... even if the others can put up faster single lap times.

The passenger side does not change, the drivers side can be the same or shifted back... if shifted back you can cut the plastic at the back of the lipo tray or leave it. The back of that piece is there for the brake servo and very few use mech. brakes.
If you leave it on and use the rear location there will be a little gap where the piece curves in with the profile of the chassis.

I just got rid of the plastic behind the tray, unnecessary.

I ordered one from BCE on 2/17. Still waiting. He said I should get it Saturday or Monday, but those days have come and gone.

My experience with the first T1 chassis was you basically get the holes to line up and then bolt it down, if there is something that isnt lining up I would make the modifications needed to get it to line up, when I say modifications I mean cut the plastic battery tray top and bottom pieces off or grinding down some plastic from a tab that is too large for the pocket. They are called BCE Racing for a reason, these chassis are meant with the racer or seasoned hobbyist in mind. A couple of mods here and there are really not a big deal to me.

Perfect explanation.

If he said your getting it, your lucky as you got in on the first batch. I'm sure he has a ton of chassis to get out the door so give it another day or two and then email & PM him.

I waited a week more than expected when the V1 started shipping. It was worth the wait.

Whats everyone doing to make there links easier to adjust? I am on my second turnbuckle wrench and it;s wearing out fast and have finally decided it's because my links are too tight. I ran them in and out a coupe times on a drill, but still are very tight.

Yep. I got hacked from behind a couple times early in main and spun around to last place, but I think I stayed off my lid they whole main and ended up finishing back up in middle of pack with some very fast guys. Pretty rare for me.

Thats sweet brother. Glad to hear its coming along for you. More races under your belt the better. Also recognizing finishing in the pack with the fast guys at your track as an accomplishment is a really good thing, a couple things go different and your up in front. Thats basically what it comes down to when your with the fast guys.

You are right about the track being small, I like it because its more wide open with larger jumps and having to use the throttle a lot more. I might go back to the 5,7,3 as well but as far as suspension I am very happy with where I am. Its a lot easier getting it dialed when the track is 10 minutes away now.

I tried a hobby specific tool, it was aluminum. First problem with it was, even though it says "4mm" on it, it measured 4.5mm. So I smacked it with a hammer on a 4mm nut and tried it again on the Tekno turnbuckles. They just laughed at the silly little waste of $5, and opened it up again. So I went back to the Stanley 6" adjustable and continued to struggle with that tool, even though it did get the job done, just slow and tedious.
Anyway, I spotted these at Ace Hardware.

http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/ima...sm=0.9,0.5,0,0

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc...p-00942339000P
Ace took $22 from me, and that is basically how I much I felt like I was willing to spend for just the one 4mm wrench. Although, I do get use from the 5.5mm, and occasionally the 7mm. No matter though, the 4mm is a permanent addition to my tool pack. It is freakin' perfect!

I have the Black Front Spring , 32w/1.3 and Rear Pink springs / 30w/1.3 . Im going to get the Green Springs . I did notice that the Pink Springs on the Rear must be a little to soft. Because on the bottom of the arms its ingraveing into them but the truck is not bottoming out the Front alum outer suspension block also. I did however use some middle hole pills on the inner block for more Anti squat .



I do have the ride height even Front and Rear its low enough for indoor but than again with the body on it may be lower. I was thinking about the HD saver spring with that very high torque servo it could be better.

But i was out turning every SCTE on the tighter tracks for sure expect one really tight turn which i only had a issue with lol.

This wrench is about bullet proof... no, bomb proof.
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...nbuckle-Wrench

Put some chap-stick on the threads and it will be easier to adjust.

+1 BCE/Bill are top notch, just real busy. You will get it!