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Old 02-14-2014 | 07:53 PM
  #19291  
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cool thanks for the info.

Playing with that and the whole diff whip thing, noticed that when still using the old 4 oring setup it seemed to help with the "whip" lol.

Can't wait for offroad to start up again here.
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Old 02-14-2014 | 07:56 PM
  #19292  
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Yeah I plan on coming up to ND this summer and do a race. Are you planning on coming down at all this year?
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Old 02-14-2014 | 09:15 PM
  #19293  
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Originally Posted by JRapid
What happened to your HD?
The case came apart behind the sensor board I guess it is glued together there and it allowed the shaft to slide back.
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Old 02-14-2014 | 09:17 PM
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Update I went ahead and removed the tires from the wrong wheels and I went with the boiling method as Fq06 recommended and it worked pretty nicely. I was able to salvage all the parts so I thank you all.
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Old 02-14-2014 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ChuckTee
Update I went ahead and removed the tires from the wrong wheels and I went with the boiling method as Fq06 recommended and it worked pretty nicely. I was able to salvage all the parts so I thank you all.
what you can boil the tires off no damage to the rubber or foam?
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Old 02-14-2014 | 09:49 PM
  #19296  
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Originally Posted by ChuckTee
Update I went ahead and removed the tires from the wrong wheels and I went with the boiling method as Fq06 recommended and it worked pretty nicely. I was able to salvage all the parts so I thank you all.
you racing sunday?
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Old 02-14-2014 | 09:54 PM
  #19297  
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Question for the gurus, I was removing 2 of the o rings from my shock shafts tonight and when I was putting shock end back on I realized that there is no lengths mentioned for the shaft length from cap to end. Is there a set length everybody is running or does it matter as long as the droop is set right?
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Old 02-14-2014 | 10:40 PM
  #19298  
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Originally Posted by rvinvents
Question for the gurus, I was removing 2 of the o rings from my shock shafts tonight and when I was putting shock end back on I realized that there is no lengths mentioned for the shaft length from cap to end. Is there a set length everybody is running or does it matter as long as the droop is set right?
Droop mainly. The only reason you would need those o-rings is to prevent the piston from pushing the bladder up (and I could see some setup).
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Old 02-14-2014 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RazzBarlow7
I put the EB48 rear tower on and haven't managed to bend it yet. (knock on wood)
FYI, the Eb48 towers will snap before they bend (but takes a lot). A++ towers if you jump big anywhere.

I broke one hitting a metal pole that was next to the big triple... bought it again.
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Old 02-14-2014 | 11:01 PM
  #19300  
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo
Droop mainly. The only reason you would need those o-rings is to prevent the piston from pushing the bladder up (and I could see some setup).
the question was how long should the shaft be when screwing on the plastic shock end?
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Old 02-14-2014 | 11:55 PM
  #19301  
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Originally Posted by rvinvents
the question was how long should the shaft be when screwing on the plastic shock end?
99% of the people don't measure shafts on this truck, I believe I answered your question correctly with Droop mainly.

Is there a set length everybody is running or does it matter as long as the droop is set right?
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Old 02-15-2014 | 03:04 AM
  #19302  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
you racing sunday?
That's the plan how about you?
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Old 02-15-2014 | 05:13 AM
  #19303  
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I would screw the eyelets all the way on, put the shock on the truck then adjust the droop screw to set the shock length. It is much easier that way just take set of digital calipers and measured between the center of the shock bolts and set your droop accordingly I am running 104mm front and one 112mm rear. Then set your ride height
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Old 02-15-2014 | 05:24 AM
  #19304  
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Originally Posted by rvinvents
Question for the gurus, I was removing 2 of the o rings from my shock shafts tonight and when I was putting shock end back on I realized that there is no lengths mentioned for the shaft length from cap to end. Is there a set length everybody is running or does it matter as long as the droop is set right?
Screw the shock eyelet on all the way. Usually you only adjust overall shock length on 1/10 stuff because there is no droop screw to adjust with. Doesn't need to be changed for our truck because the suspension arm hits the chassis stop.
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Old 02-15-2014 | 06:31 AM
  #19305  
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Originally Posted by RazzBarlow7
In my opinion, if you're really good and never crash, the carbon towers are a great way to lose weight. The rear tower takes the brunt of a rollover crash. Also, if you snap a carbon tower, it's a DNF. If you bend an aluminum one, you're still racing (although possibly with some mystery handling problems). At the recommendation of Danny from Tekno, I put the EB48 rear tower on and haven't managed to bend it yet. (knock on wood)

What's the difference between the EB48 and SCT410 tower? Weight?
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