I use to hear of racers using I think it was kerosene then lighting up the tire.does this work at all?

for traction compound I use SG and WD40. Belt dressing are too sticky, and causing overgrip. Try using coke's, its sticky enough

It was turps not kerosene

Prestone belt dressing works good unless the track starts to dry out alot. I spray a little at a time on a toothbrush and it's not messy at all. This is with Hot bodies beams in pink compound.

For belting tires, we use strapping tape. It's lighter than duct tape and already has the fiberglass ribbon inside of it.

For those of you that run gold compound is there a certain tire sauce you like? blue dot and devil spit work well on M4s or green here, but the golds don't seem to "take" much of the stuff, it just sits on top.

Some of the guys I race with use Dr. Pepper and PB blast mixed together. I've also seen them use straight Dr. Pepper on there tires. Always seemed a little silly to me.

Try some Short Course Buggy tires and rims on the front of your SC10 works great. The SC buggy tires and rims are narrower than the SC10's.

Track surfaces are all a little different, somewhat difficult to make broad assumptions for all tracks. But in general loose dirt conditions require a larger pin tire, to dig through the loose stuff. Hard packed blue groove tracks need a short pin/bar tread to prevent the pins from folding over.

Lower traction hard packed tracks generally need a softer compound and perhaps softer foams (white open cell) to help get grip. Higher traction tracks a little harder compound and stiffer foam (molded closed cell) to prevent excessive tire deflection at the higher cornering speed and load.

Similarly rough tracks generally need softer foam to better absorb the bumps and maintain contact. The stiffer molded foams work better on smoother tracks, provide better control at the generally higher speeds.

Temperature impacts rubber and tire stiffness, and wear. Really hot conditions a soft tire can get too flexible and wear really fast, consider a harder compound. Opposite for cold.

Clay tracks, moisture can really change. Some clay when wet slicks are the best. As they dry out a little more pin/tread is needed, sometimes so called ‘ghost’ pins, then broken in or sanded, up to new or newish clay tread tires as the clay dries out.

Again, tracks are different, the best advice will almost always be from the locals that are most familiar with the particular track, and likely have tried many setups.

Thanks Dave for the good info. So I need to keep a few different sets on hand to try. It looks like most guys run super soft to soft bar types.

Use motor cleaner.

What info do you guys wright on inside of rims?

**If found please return to sender **

Write?

Direction of rotation (very important)
Date (mostly for keeping pairs/sets)
Compound
Foam if not obvious or normal

Yes Write?(oops)
Thanks,what I was looking for