the stock rear toe block is 600155 and that will give you between 2deg. up to 4deg. of toe in, and there is an option low roll center to that, and that number is 600267. And for the anti squat plate, that is the one in the front of the rear diffcase. The stock piece is number 600156, that one will give you between 0deg. and 2deg of anti squat. The other option to that one is number 600265, and that one will give you from 2.5 to 4deg of anti squat. There are downloadable sheets of this on serpents site

Lol... car build was great. One small problem. I have a orion r8 pro and a trinity r8 1950kv motor. And.... the motor doesn't fit and the esc is hugging for dear life. As some may imagine I'm pretty upset. But the show must go on. What combos are you guys running?

sorry to hear you made that so called mistake. I havent read anything about guys using the orion stuff since the late Porkchop tried it early on in this car. I think guys are using hobbywing stuff with tightness. I am using Tekin esc and motor with great fitment.

Orion stuff will fit. You just have to be creative.

This is another reason I love the little hobby wing SCT Pro esc and the Tekin 1950i indoor motor. Lots of room to spare

I run the Hobbywing 150 which is the same size and form factor as the Orion and was easily able to make it fit but I do use the lightweight electronic tray (I didn't try it with the stock). I'll try to post a picture later today.

Ya the esc should be fine. But the motor Is a few MM to big. JusT got a Tekin t8 gen 2. Hope that fits

That's what's in my car now.

I need some help.. can someone that has a set up buggy get me some measurements. I broke 2 ball joints on the front end due to the cold weather, so i had to remove them from the turn buckles. I have a digital caliper and went by the measurements given in the manual. However my front wheels look like they are both pointed outward severly. can someone give me a good set of measurements to start with for the steering and camber turnbuckles. I would really appreciate it.

Orion and Hobbywing are vitrually the same case, different software. If you have the original plastic tray, you orient the ESC with the sensor wire port facing to the motor, and cut a hole for it in the tray. If you have the lightweight try (aluminum and carbon), I had to grind a slot in the heatsink to fit around the top deck. There are pictures a handful of pages back.

If you did not grind anything, I would be curious to see this.

THe 1950 is a truggy motor I think which would explain the larger size. If the gen2 is a 1900 you should be fine.

I did modify the center diff cover.

Interesting. I run the ESC 90* off from you. It looks like you split the front and rear of the top deck into 2 pieces. I was unsure what that would do to the flex, not that connecting it on the one side does a lot. Just seemed cutting it in half might have unintended consequences. Your wiring comes out a lot cleaner then mine, but I am also using deans batteries (mostly for reliability) and 10ga all the way around.

The only issue with other peoples turnbuckle lengths is they might have a different setup. So the mounting points could be longer or shorter because of this.

I don't think it flexes enough to matter. I might be wrong but I didn't see any evidence from this weekend's racing it's going to cause me issues. If I do see it will cause an issue I will modify the stock plastic spur gear cover and fit it on top of the graphite.

Additionally, my transponder is on the chassis under the front drive shaft, extra wiring is coiled under the ESC mount.

I am running the Orion R8 with the new Tekin T8. I have the Trinity motor and was sad to learn it would not fit . Its ok though I will just use it in my E-Truggy