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Old 01-29-2014 | 01:54 PM
  #1666  
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Been trying to pick out my motor/ battery combo.. please help 4s 2000kv or 6s 1350kv. I will be running with the nitro guys and i don't want battery swap in 25 min race, but will do a stop and go. In my ebuggy eb48.2 i run 1900 and 5000 4s pack use around 2000-2300 mah in ten min main. i also run a 6s setup 2500mah 1400kv motor and 10 min main i use 1400-1700. I'm try to figure out how much less efficient a truggy is over buggy to pick batteries out. I don't run roar and most guys here run 6s but there buggy. track size is 120x120ft Im pretty smooth driver and don't balloon tires up hardly. Also don't have a nitro finger. thanks for any info and help !!!
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Old 01-29-2014 | 04:25 PM
  #1667  
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Originally Posted by cpt_RedBeard
Ramos and I both slightly over gear and use the current limiter to tame the motor down to get a better more predictable torque curve.

Also the don't use Rx epa to tame a motor. The motor will still have high amp draw under load through the rpms causing your heat. If you use a current limiter it doesn't hinder top speed or the throttle curve. It simply takes some edge off and helps you keep from blowing the tires off coming out of a corner all while having less heat and strain on the electronics.
I originally got the idea of turning the power down using my radio after asking one of the local pros to drive my sct410 to see if I needed something different with my setup to improve lap times. The first thing he said on the drivers stands was my truck had way too much power so he turned down the radio and his lap times went up quite a bit. So you're saying I would be better off making adjustments via computer through the esc? By the way I really appreciate the information, I've only been racing for five years after taking an early retirement. It's been fun trying to catch up with the younger guys, I've had some success mostly in 1/8, I'm finding the 1/10 indoor season to be more challenging for my driving style.
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Old 01-29-2014 | 06:04 PM
  #1668  
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Sometimes, all you need is a hand job. I didn't feel like breaking out the airbrush or liquid mask. Its florescent red, florescent orange, white, and black. There's plenty of overspray into the white area, but ....good enough.

DNX408T body on an ET48. I left extra body material around the front wheel wells and left it clear.


Last edited by metoo; 02-03-2014 at 08:07 PM. Reason: Replaced pic with better one.
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Old 01-29-2014 | 06:17 PM
  #1669  
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metoo your paint job is awesome, I am so envious! I can't do a descent job drawing stick people...LOL
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Old 01-29-2014 | 06:38 PM
  #1670  
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Originally Posted by sramos
I understand. Editing to the beat and music is difficult. Not a race video. Sorta like a commercial lol.
I thought it was a really awesome video. Great job editing that it much have taken a while to compile all the footage and piece it together in a glowing manner. If that video hurts your eyes you may want to make sure you don't have a brain tumor lol. Great job sramos!
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Old 01-29-2014 | 06:56 PM
  #1671  
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Originally Posted by jones8352
I originally got the idea of turning the power down using my radio after asking one of the local pros to drive my sct410 to see if I needed something different with my setup to improve lap times. The first thing he said on the drivers stands was my truck had way too much power so he turned down the radio and his lap times went up quite a bit. So you're saying I would be better off making adjustments via computer through the esc? By the way I really appreciate the information, I've only been racing for five years after taking an early retirement. It's been fun trying to catch up with the younger guys, I've had some success mostly in 1/8, I'm finding the 1/10 indoor season to be more challenging for my driving style.
Yes, its a much better approach. Using the radio trick is nice if you need to do it quick or to see if it helps.
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Old 01-29-2014 | 07:05 PM
  #1672  
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Originally Posted by metoo
Sometimes, all you need is a hand job. I didn't feel like breaking out the airbrush or liquid mask. Its florescent red, florescent orange, white, and black. There's plenty of overspray into the white area, but ....good enough. I couldn't take the photos in good lighting, so this'll have to do.

DNX408T body on an ET48. I left extra body material around the front wheel wells and left it clear.


Wow I like! Well done.
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Old 01-29-2014 | 10:41 PM
  #1673  
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metoo Very nice paint job like the way you got the body to fit
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Old 01-29-2014 | 11:23 PM
  #1674  
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yeah if you used you current limteder and put down to 30 percent you can get good temps and good run time I tested 4s 6500 smc lipos and I got 20 mins plus on a med to large size out door track
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Old 01-30-2014 | 12:39 AM
  #1675  
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Originally Posted by rcguy76559
Been trying to pick out my motor/ battery combo.. please help 4s 2000kv or 6s 1350kv. I will be running with the nitro guys and i don't want battery swap in 25 min race, but will do a stop and go. In my ebuggy eb48.2 i run 1900 and 5000 4s pack use around 2000-2300 mah in ten min main. i also run a 6s setup 2500mah 1400kv motor and 10 min main i use 1400-1700. I'm try to figure out how much less efficient a truggy is over buggy to pick batteries out. I don't run roar and most guys here run 6s but there buggy. track size is 120x120ft Im pretty smooth driver and don't balloon tires up hardly. Also don't have a nitro finger. thanks for any info and help !!!
25 mins without a swap will be pretty hard to do consistently, no matter what setup you run.

If your looking for effieciency, higher voltage with lower KV will always work out better.
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Old 01-30-2014 | 02:41 AM
  #1676  
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Hey guys. I never have had a truggy. So what rims fit this beast??? I am a redneck so pictures help. I ve seen 0-off set and off set???? What fits the truggy?
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Old 01-30-2014 | 03:01 AM
  #1677  
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Originally Posted by metoo
Sometimes, all you need is a hand job. I didn't feel like breaking out the airbrush or liquid mask. Its florescent red, florescent orange, white, and black. There's plenty of overspray into the white area, but ....good enough. I couldn't take the photos in good lighting, so this'll have to do.

DNX408T body on an ET48. I left extra body material around the front wheel wells and left it clear.


Can you post a pic of the truck turned over shooting straight down? I want to see how much space there is between the body and the chassis.

Will the stock front posts not go thru the body if there were holes? Shock tower will hit the body?
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Old 01-30-2014 | 05:13 AM
  #1678  
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Originally Posted by S.TRIPP77
Hey guys. I never have had a truggy. So what rims fit this beast??? I am a redneck so pictures help. I ve seen 0-off set and off set???? What fits the truggy?
For the most part, any modern truggy wheels will fit this vehicle. Personally, I would buy the same brand rim as the tire you are using.

Here are a few of the main brands...

JConcepts

http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=481 (Requires elevated tire) I personally run these and they work quite well.

Proline

http://prolineracing.com/1-8-truck-wheels

AKA

http://www.raceaka.com/18-TRUGGY-EVO...PCS_p_542.html

Any of these wheels will work. Most manufacturers also offer Pre-Mounts as well if you don't want to glue.
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Old 01-30-2014 | 05:29 AM
  #1679  
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Originally Posted by S.TRIPP77
Hey guys. I never have had a truggy. So what rims fit this beast??? I am a redneck so pictures help. I ve seen 0-off set and off set???? What fits the truggy?
Dog gonnit! Since I bought a big box of tires and wheels from another racer, I didn't even realize there were alternatives.

I've seen 0, 1/2, and Standard. What the heck does that mean? Can a brotha get some units? Does Standard = 0 ? Does only Losi use 1/2?
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Old 01-30-2014 | 05:44 AM
  #1680  
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Tekno:

when will bodies be available to purchase?
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