My 5s 4200mah setup runs about two minutes longer than my 4s 5300mah setup. Same buggy just different motor kv and gearing ( they both top out at the same speed). And the 5s pack is lighter than the two crap 2s2p packs I was using, now my 4s setup is two 2950mah 4s packs in parallel (serpent e-buggy).

I gave up trying to explain that a long time ago though. Now when someone asks me what I run I just say 4s, and yes this is on a track in a race environment.

This is exactly like what i was saying. No matter how you explain it, someone will always take it for something it isn't. People in rc are smarter than most, but this is one subject some just can't wrap their heads around. I'm all for 6s if you have a rule in place for it. Make a motor limit, say 1500Kv and less and it could definitely work.

Guess its kinda a good thing that ROAR will likely set the limit to 4S. Yes it sucks for us who want the 6S efficiency setups but it will make it easier as far as consistent rules go. I'm sure a lot wouldn't do eTruggy if they felt they had to to a 6S setup to be competitive rather than be fine using existing 4S packs from their buggies.

I can't race, there isn't a single track within 400km from where I live. What there is, however, is plenty of rock quarries, rocky plateaus, gravel football pitches and other similar bash-able surfaces.

The problem with Tekno is that racing is inherent to its design, and as such, despite build quality or durability, it's not a good choice for me. I suppose you could say that any 1:8 buggy or truggy is designed to be first and foremost a racer (except Vorza), but the simple truth is, some of those racing buggies and truggies are better suited for bashing than others.

DEX408T looks like one of those "better" bashing cars, though I'll probably wait until the Serpent e-truggy is announced before making another purchase.

I really don't require much of my bashing cars. They have to be durable and well-built, the requirement which almost all modern 1:8 buggies and truggies fit. I need to be able to use either dual 3S or a single 6S battery pack. A sturdy motor mount, preferably with 4 for Castle motors, goes a long way. And maximum possible CVA/shock protection - which means dust boots everywhere possible, mud guards on rear arms and, of course, Outerwears Shockwears on all 4 shocks.

I would be all over this truggy except e truggy is totally dead around here.

If bashing is your thing, I would just get a used 8ight-T 2.0 and convert it using a Tekno V4 chassis. Very durable Truggy.

I already have a RC8T V4. Still, I would prefer a truggy designed from the ground up as an electrical vehicle, as the conversion, as well as the RC8T itself have a number of problems inherent to their design.

I can't imagine bashing this truck! When I want to mob around and "bash" I pick up my Savage Flux and have it....

You simply cannot compare the build and design quality of RTR monster trucks and 1:8 buggy/truggy kits which cost about the same, but don't come with electronics.

For RTR kits manufacturers cut every corner possible to reduce costs. This results in poor build quality, often forcing you to dump hundreds of additional dollars into durability upgrades just to prevent your monster truck from breaking on every bad landing. I had to do just that with my LST2 and E-Revo.

1:8 buggy/truggy kits, on the other hand, are designed to endure the harsh and taxing environment of competitive racing. Those kits use considerably higher quality plastics and alloys, their diffs don't strip on 6S, they're much easier to maintain and work on, and offer much better tuning/customization options.

I think it's a psychological thing. People are easier goaded into spending $500 on a RTR car + another $500 worth of upgrades, than getting a $500 kit + $500 worth of electronics and radio equipment.

That's like taking a brand new ford f-150 raptor out to a muddy trail somewhere, when you could just be fine with an old beater lifted truck. My point is, you don't need the best of the best when bashing. If you're a true basher, you know that driving finesse and very good handling are not needed. Bashing a uber racer kit when you already have an e-truggy doesn't make sense. Also, race kits aren't always the most durable. In fact, it may be the exact opposite, the arms and plastics on race kits are better quality, but they are more brittle and resistant to flex. This would make them break more easily compared to an rpm equipped savage that flexes instead of breaking.

That's why I always boil my car arms in salt water before installing them

Adds the necessary flex without sacrificing any durability.

I had one of these and your totally RIGHT!!! That's why I switched to the 8ight.

The thing is all vehicles have problems, converted or purpose build.

You just have to know how to work with that.

And the Tekno as light as it is may not be the strongest truggy on the market.

Honestly i wouldn't invest €1500 in a truggy to beat the snot out of it.

Nor would I, but lots of people spend that on upgrades for a Slash...so bashing isn't really about the most sensibly budget minded way to jump over a house, just to do it with something they like.

The Tekno, while not designed for it, should be quite a reasonable basher...the SCT410 for example is more durable than just about any other SC with just a couple upgrades (AL hinge pin holders).

If bashers want to run and support third party products for a vehicle I want to race, I'm all for it.

Quite right, breaking parts and upgrading the cars is just as big a part of the hobby as actually driving them I've probably already spent twice the Revo's price on upgrades, and I don't regret it one bit.