Also a set of the plastic hinge pin holders if you haven't upgraded to the EB48 aluminum ones. And maybe a rear diff housing. Or better yet, upgrade to the newer angled rear diff housing from the eb48.2 and keep the stocker as a backup.

+1

I definitely understand upgrading to the new angled rear diff housing (it dramatically cuts down on rear driveshaft wear), but a rear diff housing as a spare??!? You've broken a diff housing in racing?

To the original poster's question:

Hingepin holders or upgrade to aluminum. (I've broken 2)

Rear shock tower or upgrade to EB48 tower (I've bent 2)

Front control arms (I've broken 1)

I am sorry for asking this because I am sure it's been asked a 1000 times but got tired of reading lol....what bodies fit the car? Is there a proline that fits?

I've ran both the Losi SCTE and the Proline Tundra bodies.

Pretty much any body that fits the SCTE will fit the Tekno. You might have to trim it differently or body hole locations.

I think nearly all 1/10 sct bodies will fit, since they're all similar in size and the body posts are adjustable in angle, position, and height on the sct410. On top of that, you just set the body on the chassis, then use a sharpie to mark where to ream the holes, and it'll be a perfect fit no matter the body! (I'm sure there are exceptions but if it'll fit bodies from sc10, scte, and slash, it should fit nearly any 1/10 body. You'll just have to mark and ream the holes yourself. (which is easy)

Hello PUDDIN! The Proline EVO is perfecto to Tekno SCT410. Is very strong.


Bye!

The way I try to explain it to locals is don't try to hit the jump, IE square up and hammer it. Think of it as casting your truck through it, kinda like bowling. Your target isn't the take off its the landing.

the CVD pins seem to be the first thing that I wear out in the drive line. I keep at least one of everything Tekno recommends the team guys carry and multiples of things I actually see as useful spares.

Things I keep in my "Handout" box:
TKR5534 – Hinge Pins (SCT410, outer, rear)
TKR5570 – Stub Axles (SCT410, hardened steel, 2pcs)
TKR5536 – Suspension Arms (SCT410, front, 2pcs)
TKR5530 – Suspension Arms (SCT410, rear, 2pcs)
TKR5117 – Ackermann Plate (composite)
TKR6017 – Shock Shafts (rear, steel, 2pcs)
TKR6004 – Shock Shafts (front, steel, 2pcs)
TKR5240 – Adjustable Hinge Pin Braces (front and rear, composite)
TKR5021 – Hinge Pin Inserts, Wheelbase Shims (complete set)
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6856 – M6 CV Rebuild Kit (for 6851X, 6852X, 1951X, 2210X, others)
TKR1333 – M3x40mm Flat Head Screws (black, 10pcs)

Things in the "handout" box that I also stock at home because I replace them a lot:
TKR6023 – Shock Boot Set (2 front, 2 rear)
TKR5144 – Differential O-Rings (6pcs)
TKR5143 – Differential Seals (3pcs)
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Does anybody run the lightened EB48 Chassis? If so did you guys notice a significant difference? I am about to make a big purchase of stuff that needs to be replaced or just had in case and was thinking about getting the Eb48 chassis. Opinions? Also the straight cut center diff upgrade.. Is it really needed? Oh yea, saw this and had to share! lol..

Assembling the Ackermann plate, is there a reason why the hex head is at the bottom and the nuts are at the top in the plate?

When assembling according to instructions the nuts turn in the Ackerman plate before they are tight and there is not much room to get needle nose in there (It can easily be done, it just seems wrong and theoretically would work fine with the hex heads on the top?).

I'm assuming there is a reason for this that may be discovered as I continue building.

The ackerman plate should hold the nuts so you don't need a wrench or pliers to hold them.

+1

Only problem is the Ackermann plate is plastic and the nut is a locknut that requires more torque than the plastic will hold to tighten. Looks like it could be flipped though, maybe even easier to work on with the hex on top.

Bad idea leave the nut on top doesn't have to be hulk tight

Got some footage this weekend of me doing some practice laps. I have the nose dives bad now, going to grab the 8x1.3s and some stiffer rear springs. Also pushing in the turns; any easy fix for that?

+ YouTube Video