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Old 01-20-2014 | 10:45 AM
  #18526  
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Originally Posted by mr240
I did the battery mod and didn't notice any difference at all. Big difference for me was the 8x1.3 pistons with green fronts and yellow rears. Once in a while I will get the nose down when jumping. But not the lawn dart that was driving me crazy. Going to try yellow front orange rear to see if I can get rid of the nose down completely.
I am at Tekno yellow fronts and Tekno greens out back. works really well for me. I am even flight or a little nose up but nothing I cant control with a tap of the brakes. I am glad to hear that you solved your issue.
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Old 01-20-2014 | 12:06 PM
  #18527  
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Originally Posted by Cain
I'd suggest starting with orange rear first.

That is basically the set I have been running for rear, softer in the front at 3.83 lbs.

You could also try that too.

My vehicle in general will jump either level or with a very slight nose down which I can easily bring up with no effort, or, slam down with the brakes. This is using a flowtek body that is swiss cheesed.
Definitely will start with the orange rear first. With the green front I can barely get a right height of 25mm. Have to run almost zero preload to achieve it.
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Old 01-20-2014 | 12:11 PM
  #18528  
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that is one thing I would like to see tekno address in the future, shorter springs would be nice.

Its a benefit I liked when running the hot bodies springs I have as they are shorter than the teknos and work well.
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Old 01-20-2014 | 12:40 PM
  #18529  
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Originally Posted by 5errated
care to share your setup? I understand if you don't, but it's always worth an ask!
Box stock set up.
upgraded these parts

**Tekno aluminum servo horn
**air control guard set
** Aluminum rear adjustable hinge pin brace +1.5
**Aluminum center driveshaft
**Pink front springs
**Green rear springs
**Tekno CNC conical shock pistons (8x1.3mm)

all Tekno parts
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Old 01-20-2014 | 04:07 PM
  #18530  
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Originally Posted by mr240
Definitely will start with the orange rear first. With the green front I can barely get a right height of 25mm. Have to run almost zero preload to achieve it.
Yea there real soft springs are shorter and there stiffer springs are longer, kinda backwards...lol
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Old 01-20-2014 | 07:36 PM
  #18531  
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Originally Posted by ChuckTee
Nice job man, thanks for putting in all the pics with all that details. Glad to see that some people out there are organized and make things easier for themselves, too bad Im not one of those guys. LOL
hope it helps someone save money, i would rather spend my money on stuff I want.
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Old 01-20-2014 | 07:40 PM
  #18532  
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Originally Posted by BOLISARIO
Thanks! Time to go shopping.
be sure not to let the chain breaker pin go too far into the drive shaft it can get stuck, thats why i use the new pin to push the old pin all the way out.
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Old 01-20-2014 | 09:03 PM
  #18533  
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Hey guys I was reading thru some of the bots and I noticed people were talking about different bodies they have ran. I have ran the PL EVO with cut out, JC 2011 silverado with cut outs, PL Flowtek with cut and Andy's RC bodies with no cut outs. IMO Andy's rc body was better than them all. I did use an extra piece of scrap lexan and made a small spoiler as well. The truck flew true and straight thru the air, cornered awesome and seemed to just drive a lot better. The PL bodies always seemed to give me the last minute nose dive in the air. The JC body was runner up to Andy's body IMO. Has anyone else tried these bodies?
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Old 01-20-2014 | 09:50 PM
  #18534  
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Question!

I noticed the car has crazy steering range due to cutouts on the front arms, but I can't get anywhere near that much steering because the steering rods hit the front sway bar before it gets to that far. Is that normal, or do I need to bend or adjust something? Seems weird to have that much room for steering but only have half of it utilized due to suspension parts ramming into the sway bar.

For now, I just adjusted EPA on my radio but I'm sad to leave out that much potential steering (which would be nice for the small tight indoor track I run on).
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Old 01-20-2014 | 10:12 PM
  #18535  
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Originally Posted by 5errated
Question!

I noticed the car has crazy steering range due to cutouts on the front arms, but I can't get anywhere near that much steering because the steering rods hit the front sway bar before it gets to that far. Is that normal, or do I need to bend or adjust something? Seems weird to have that much room for steering but only have half of it utilized due to suspension parts ramming into the sway bar.

For now, I just adjusted EPA on my radio but I'm sad to leave out that much potential steering (which would be nice for the small tight indoor track I run on).
Pics please. Something's not together right.
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Old 01-20-2014 | 10:46 PM
  #18536  
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Originally Posted by SC Shaun
Pics please. Something's not together right.
Well now that I go to take a picture of it, it's not happening lol. It still touches but only at the VERY far end of the steering range. Maybe my first run at the track today got everything settled into place lol.
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Old 01-21-2014 | 12:24 AM
  #18537  
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Went to track for the first time today. First time on that track. First time on ANY track, period. First time driving this new truck. Was basically set up for failure lol. It started bad, but then I slowed down and it got much better and I had a blast. Told wife to record me and she translated that to recording a handful of really short clips. Oh well, better than nothing. I cut them into a short video. One clip was using the slow motion mode on the iphone 5s, and that turned out pretty neat.

On my second battery, I was actually overtaking other SCT's fairly easily. Slow is smooth and smooth is fast! Throttle was defaulted to 50/50 on my radio, and didn't know until I got home. Got that fixed for next time. First time I hit the big triple, I launched it off the track. That rx8.2 and pro4hd 4300 combo with 16t pinion really makes this nearly 7 lb truck turn into a missile. I really had to watch my trigger finger when heading up to jumps.

Had slight nose down issues, so I had to burst the throttle just after leaving the ramps to keep it level. Going to order some weights to add to the back to keep it flat.

Ran proline suburb supersofts on this moist hard packed dirt track that was somewhat smooth. Worked great. Had ion clays on for first couple laps and I didn't like them so I put the suburbs on. Also didn't have the vents cut out yet on the flotek body so that might help with the nose diving next time too.

And I already mentioned it once, but remember, THIS WAS MY FIRST TIME lol.

http://youtu.be/IrTcwJS-aOg
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Old 01-21-2014 | 12:45 AM
  #18538  
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Hello 5errated! I see exaggerated pinion 16t/tekin4300 use in circuit video. Although if you're doing fine and the engine is not heated guess it will be fine ...


Bye!
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Old 01-21-2014 | 06:10 AM
  #18539  
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I ran the PL EVO body for the first time this weekend and was pretty happy with it. It was outdoors on a windy day. The jumps weren't huge but big enough where the parachute effect can cause you problems. It also has a long straight followed by a sweeper.

I did all the cutouts and really didn't even notice the body being there which is what I was looking for. I didn't get any nose down issues if anything I was a little nose high.

Durability wise it's only been one race day so hard to say, but no cracks so far. Had a few rollovers but not big crashes.

Last edited by Mizchief; 01-21-2014 at 06:36 AM.
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Old 01-21-2014 | 06:55 AM
  #18540  
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Originally Posted by 5errated
Going to order some weights to add to the back to keep it flat.

Also didn't have the vents cut out yet on the flotek body so that might help with the nose diving next time too.

And I already mentioned it once, but remember, THIS WAS MY FIRST TIME lol.

http://youtu.be/IrTcwJS-aOg
I'd go with different pistons (8x1.4 or 8x1.3) instead of weight, it will make it worse.

Cutting the vents won't help the nose down much, they are more for the parachute effect.

Honestly, there are some locals here that have been racing for years and look way worse than that, you looked pretty good to me!
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