Well dont try a novak activ8, been there ran 2 qual then it just died and spent 3 months waiting to get back and when it came slip said brain board fried not customer fault I got so upset I had 5 novak speedo's sold them all off and have been using all Lrp's since and working great so though i would give this a try. Got a response from Lrp and they just said that dont sound right send it back but I figure I'm going to run till it goes as long as it is warranty, so far 3 races and really love it just bothers me with that noise.
i was going to try a RX8 but someone at Tekin had the bright idea to come out with a new one and discontinue the old one right at the start of outdoor season, couldn't find new one unless went on ebay and paid $350

Yea. Button issues are the downfall for this esc. I have 2 that work fine, but I cant adjust anything any more becuse the buttons are dead. The first few times I could just take the case off the esc and spray the buttons out with electronics cleaner and they would work again, but eventually that doesn't work any more either. Other than that I really liked the esc. Pitty that something as simple as a button can be the downfall of an otherwise good product.

So.. the last two nights at the track I make it thru my heat race with no issues. 10 minute mains are where I have trouble. Both nights the throttle stops working about halfway thru the main. I have steering but not throttle. Lights on the ESC are the blinking alternately yellow/red with the blue flashing. If you turn the ESC off and back on car takes off with no issues.

First night it happened I charged the same battery after racing and went out and ran for 13 minutes with no issues.

Temps on the ESC and motor have been 125-135 when this happens. Running a 5000 and 5300mag 4 cell battery. Each cell has been around 3.95 when this happens.

Any ideas? It's an IX8 with a Reedy 2100 motor in a RC8.2 E buggy. Running a hitec 7955 servo.

bad switch? bad battery connection? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

check your temp cut-off setting. it reads internal...not external heat. all the tech's i've spoken to say to go up to 220 degrees(F). personally running the dynamic 8 and it overheats in 5 minutes or less with anything close to 1:2 P:S ratio....careful!

15t pinion or below...

Any ideas where I can purchase a switch for this speedo

is there a way to tell the old ix8 against the updated bec version?

Can anyone tell me the feel of this esc compared to a HW SC 120. I use a HW SC 120 for buggy lite on 2s battery and SC motor for indoor on 1/8th scale. However, on 4S with all boost and timing off, the HW controller doesn't feel good. Power application is not smooth like with 2S and SC motor. I have not drivin an IX8 to know how it feel on 4S. I don't want to spend the money on a controller that won't imrpove what I already have/

hello guys,
I am testing top speed of my car by the end of the month, and I wanted to ask you
does the ix8s power profiles (1-5 setting on the esc) effect also top speed, or just punch? Do I have to set it to max in order to be clocked the fastest? Because it causes me a certain level of heat issues and if I could overcome it, it would be only good.

Hi guys, anyone have a link for programming software for this ESC? I found the firmware upgrading program but I'm looking for the one that lets you adjust the settings of the ESC.

Doesn't exist. Only programmable via the esc buttons.

Well that's crap then. My buttons have stopped working and was hoping for another way to program this thing. I might have to try and replace the switches or something.

I have 2 of these that are paper weights now because the buttons don't work. The esc was great when it worked, but the buttons are the downfall on all of them.

I was able to bring the buttons back and get them working again for a little while by taking the case off the esc and then using motor cleaner to wash out the button mechanism. They worked again until the esc got dusty again. But this only worked once or twice. After that they just stay broken. The esc still runs as long as you don't need to adjust anything....

I bought a used unit, the motor turns the wrong way for my Durango. I'm hoping that once I get it sorted I won't need to touch it again. On a good note I'm halfway there. Cleaned the buttons like everyone has done and I've managed to program the mode and direction. The set button looks to be worse as its hard to get a press registered. I will persever with tho. Sounds promising.

for anyone having buttons issues, just use silicon on all the spots and edges through which dust can get it, including the buttons, you can still see their light, you can press them, but no dust getting in and in case of warranty, you can remove silicon easily. hope that helps.

By the way, I am running this ESC with orion 1900kv motor on 6s, gearing 15/46 and experiencing thermal cut offs after like 2-3 laps ( driving the car nowhere near to the pros' times, arround 10s slower). Is this ESC just weak to handle 1/8 power, or what else could be wrong? I see pros using simmilar gearing eg for tekin 1900kv on 4s, I see amateurs running close to 1:2 pinion:spur ratio, I am ~ 1:3 and still cant drive properly. Is it the 6s power or what :/

6S is way too much voltage for 1900kv motors. You might want to go down to 4s, or switch out the motor with a lower KV like a 1400. You might be fast, but most likely just spinning tire everywhere.