LRP IX8
#151
R/C Tech Elite Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,583
The ESC comes programmed from the factory but you must set it up to your configuration (number of cells, brake, punch control, cut off, etc etc). They are quite easy to program with the buttons and leds
#152
Just follow the light sequence and push buttons at the right time.
#153
Dust will jam the buttons, it had once stopped halfway through a main with a thermal error, but it was nowhere near as hot as it is after 10 minutes, internal temp check doesn't work on mine, otherwise it works so far. Programming is very limited (or simplified, if you like it that way), number of cells for lipo cutoff (2-6), brake on/off, reverse on/off, motor direction, power profile(1-5), drag brake level(off, 1-5).
#155
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,068
From: Ottawa, Canada
Hi guys, sorry to hijack the thread, but I just picked up an SPX8 to use in my 1/10th 4WD and the servo wire, negative wire, is pretty frayed - I once tried to replace the same three wire/servo lead on an LRP QC brushed ESC years ago directly to the board, and it never worked again, sent it in to LRP USA - they said I fried the board, no warranty etc. So, all this to say, my SPX8 has a frayed wire, I'd like to replace the entire servo lead - can I do this myself, soldering to the board itself or would I be better to simply cut it at the frayed section, and redo the wires?
Any advice?
Thanks guys.
Any advice?
Thanks guys.
#156
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 27
Hey guys, just picked up an ix8 and I'm having a bit of trouble. The lrp website is of no help so I thought I'd try here. I have it in my rc8.2 with a tekin 1900, spektrum radio/receiver, and I usually tun thunder power battery. 2 issues are baffling me, the first is that when I turn the car on, with the transmitter already ON, the car blips full throttle for about 5 seconds. I've never experienced anything like it. After that it runs correctly. Except that when I try to adjust the travel down to 80 the car then wants to creep forward until I adjust the throttle trim to ~-10. The transmitter/receiver have been bound correctly and I've calibrated the esc with the radio correctly, as far as I can tell. The only other things I've done include setting the voltage cutoff for 4s and setting to be able to go in reverse. Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks guys!!
#157
Now I know what happened. The problem was not with the software, but with the button. The Mode button was not working. After a few days using the ESC the plastic button started to shrink and doesn't reach the point of contact inside the ESC. I disassembled the ESC's bottom cover and took the button off, and now it is working. I just have to use a small allen wrench to press the mode button inside the ESC, until I can get a new button.
Thanks!
#158
My buttons stopped working after a couple really dusty race days. I opened the esc case and blew the dust out of the buttons with some canned air and then sprayed them out with some electronics/motor cleaner and they were fine again. On mine the little buttons on the board wouldn't push without cleaning them out. The little plastic buttons in the case had nothing to do with the problem.
#160
It should turn on for 3 seconds when you first switch on the esc, then it stops and only comes on at 130 degree's? I think it only turns on at startup if everything is connected up though (motor, sensor etc).
#161
it doesn't come on at start up. not sure if it comes on after it warms up since i didn't run it with the fan yet. i just installed it last nite and bench tested it.
#162
Ok, I think it will only come on at start up if you have it fully wired up to both receiver and also motor...the fan at start up is a "test" that everything is ok...I have vey rarely had mine reach the 130 to get the fan going once hot but I do think it should work at start up or there is an issue...not sur did anyone can chime in!?
#164
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 68
have been having problems with the wire holders on motor coming off , today i had all yhree come off at once, any one had this prob and have a fix, not much room for soldering on these motors , wish they had normal solder tabs.
#165
i currently run a LRP ix8 paired with a LRP 2200 Dynamic 8. lately, i have been having problems with it cutting off. it started with jumps, then small jumps, not it just cuts on straights. sometimes only at 1/4 or 1/2 throttle. the switch has been cut off. and once it stops, you can unplug and plug the battery, and it works fine until it quits again.
car: Rc8e.2
ESc: Lrp Ix8
Motor: Dynamic 8 2200kv
Battery: Reedy 4s 60c 5500mah with EC5 connector
Servo: Savox 1283 with novak cap
radio: Ko Propo was Spektrum dx3r pro (cut off on both radios)
LVC is at 6v and overheat is on. it made 2 laps saturday in the mains on a 23 sec lap track typical is 26-28 sec lap...so that gives you an idea
any input would be great before is send this thing back to LRP for repair!!
thanks
daniel
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car: Rc8e.2
ESc: Lrp Ix8
Motor: Dynamic 8 2200kv
Battery: Reedy 4s 60c 5500mah with EC5 connector
Servo: Savox 1283 with novak cap
radio: Ko Propo was Spektrum dx3r pro (cut off on both radios)
LVC is at 6v and overheat is on. it made 2 laps saturday in the mains on a 23 sec lap track typical is 26-28 sec lap...so that gives you an idea
any input would be great before is send this thing back to LRP for repair!!
thanks
daniel
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