Originally Posted by metoo

Hobbywing has an 1800. I use that in my RC8.2e.

Originally Posted by Precision1

That measurement is usually shock length (from center of fastener to center of fastenere). But to match this you need to have the shock in the same position on arm and tower.

Better way is to have it on set up blocks with wheels off and measure distance under hubs to ground. You can find the max droop this way and adjust for different shock mount positions on arm so shocks never fully extend when in the air. You want the droop screw to limit travel before shock is at max extension. Otherwise you will destroy shocks pretty quick.

If you don't like the Tekno way of adjusting droop from the bottom, get some of these.

Ball bearing droop screws
A little pricey, but so is a $600 truggy!
They work great, I have them in everything. No more chassis gouging or unreliable droop settings.

Originally Posted by mechanic_dan

Ok here is my finished ET48. Just waiting for the body to come from my painter.

Originally Posted by jones8352

I like the stock body too! If a guy were going to race in muddy or extra dirty conditions I think I would put a stock eb48 body on first to help keep crud out. My painter still has my body so I put one of the Jconcepts eb48 bodies on so I could run it at the track. It looked kind of cool, if somebody made one that would reach the rear tower it would look fine. I was real careful because I didn't want to beat up those beautiful shocks and towers. Congrats on getting your kit, now the fun part!!!

Originally Posted by Optimus Grime

Need to see some pix when it's done Still looking for a paint scheme, the body is always the hard part for me??I love the build, in fact I milk it...lol Almost hate when I'm done. Maybe a Batman Theme, this thing has that kind of Tumbler front end???

Originally Posted by Optimus Grime

Need to see some pix when it's done Still looking for a paint scheme, the body is always the hard part for me??I love the build, in fact I milk it...lol Almost hate when I'm done. Maybe a Batman Theme, this thing has that kind of Tumbler front end???

Originally Posted by jones8352

I'm running the same motor but I'm using a 14t pinion. Take a rotary tool and sand the center dif brace about 1 to 2mm. I don't know for sure it might be possible to get 13 on their but that might involve machining the motor mount.

Originally Posted by Cain

So if I am reading it right, the truck comes with the 44T spur gear. And it appears the lowest pinion size being fit is about a 14T correct?

Is it possible on the truggy to use a larger spur?

using the rc asylum script top speed calculator, unless I am looking at it wrong, putting in 4 for the diff ratio, 44T for the spur, 14T pinion and the 2000Kv Tekin motor (rated on that site at 2100Kv), you are basically at 42mph theoretical (using Proline LPR Crimefighter tires)

Am I doing something wrong in my calculations?

Right now, seems a lower Kv motor, say the 1700Kv Truggy one from Tekin if you are so included gives a better gearing range from the 35mph to 40mph range.

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni

You should be able to sand the center brace down far enough to run a 13T, no machining the motor mount necessary.

Originally Posted by UK.hardcore

The outside of the bulge for the driveshaft.

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni

...
The truggy uses different ring and pinion gears than the buggy. The buggy uses 40/10 for a 4:1 ratio whereas the truggy uses 40/9 to get it down to a 4.44:1.