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Old 01-12-2014 | 11:16 AM
  #6691  
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Hi i ran since e few month's with the b44.2, therefore the xb4.
Mostly setup sheets of the B44.2 is with in de rear the silver sawybar, or stiffer bar in the rear than the font. In close quick turns it works fine, quick arround the corner. But in long high speed corners, this makes de B44 very instable in de front. you can't puch him through the corner on power or he will tractionroll very soon in front. Befor i drive the Xray xb4, and on high speed with 1.6 front en rear 1.4 mm it was much stable on high grip long corners.
Today i ran front silver an back black en much more stable on high speeds. But even on carpet or astro there is no teamsheet how use this setup. So what are your findings about the swaybar argument.
Lower the car on high grip circuits from 20mm to 17mm will help a lot but not enough.

And yhea in Belgium, BENELUX it's all xray xb4 since this year, but i like the B44.2, but that makes me very 'aso'cial. :-)

Last edited by Svendc; 01-12-2014 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 01-12-2014 | 01:39 PM
  #6692  
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Ok fellas......

I currently have a B44.2 with an Avid Chassis. Car is good but not always dialed...

seems like it just doesnt respond fast enough for me on most indoor tracks...

I'm thinking of switching back to a B44.1.....

or I've heard rumors that Avid made a short version of the aluminum chassis...

I dont mind buying a new rear top place and rear center driveshaft...

anyone gone back and forth between the 44.1 and 44.2
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Old 01-12-2014 | 02:04 PM
  #6693  
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Jason, have you tried the new mod of shaving 2mm off the rear arms and moving them forward? Do that!

Whenever I need the car to respond more just move the ballstud on the steering rack. If you need it to really turn, move it all the way back.
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Old 01-12-2014 | 02:14 PM
  #6694  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
Jason, have you tried the new mod of shaving 2mm off the rear arms and moving them forward? Do that!

Whenever I need the car to respond more just move the ballstud on the steering rack. If you need it to really turn, move it all the way back.
hey Adam,

Actually I haven't. I just made a jig so I can CNC the arms shorter.

But I'm not sure I like the Aluminum chassis on medium and lower bite surfaces.

I'm torn.......

Are you running gear diffs or still on the ball diffs?
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Old 01-12-2014 | 02:21 PM
  #6695  
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Originally Posted by Jason Snyder
hey Adam,

Actually I haven't. I just made a jig so I can CNC the arms shorter.

But I'm not sure I like the Aluminum chassis on medium and lower bite surfaces.

I'm torn.......

Are you running gear diffs or still on the ball diffs?
Ball diffs all the way! They all told me they just make the car feel edges and aggressive.

My car felt instantly better with the alum chassis. The JC steering rack improved response and feel as well. After the rear arm mod, the car just felt right.
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Old 01-12-2014 | 02:38 PM
  #6696  
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It was even better on low bite tracks? I have the Avid chassis also but haven't put it on the car yet..I was wondering if it was a big improvement. I guess I would consider our track to be med bite..
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Old 01-12-2014 | 02:56 PM
  #6697  
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Hi I hope some one can help me I have a b44.2 I have blue spring front green rear hole shots all4 corners the track is dirt packed med traction n the rear is coming around off power to low power it's like doing 180 n sucks tryed removing rear swaybar no help change front spring from green to yellow a little stiffer n made worse I have 35wt oil in rear idk what to do any help please
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Old 01-12-2014 | 03:18 PM
  #6698  
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Originally Posted by Jeepgc
Hi I hope some one can help me I have a b44.2 I have blue spring front green rear hole shots all4 corners the track is dirt packed med traction n the rear is coming around off power to low power it's like doing 180 n sucks tryed removing rear swaybar no help change front spring from green to yellow a little stiffer n made worse I have 35wt oil in rear idk what to do any help please
Try going to 30 in the back and removing the rear ball stud washer.....

sometimes i even run a black rear spring....sounds crazy but it helps.
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Old 01-12-2014 | 03:39 PM
  #6699  
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The washer on the rear ball studs for inner tie rods on the carbon fiber?
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Old 01-12-2014 | 06:37 PM
  #6700  
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I wanted to try mid motor but didn't want to get the C4.2 kit. After a trip to England racing Astroturf I really liked the Rudebits DB2 and the Team C TM2 so I decided to great the same architecture with AE parts. I got a donor B44.1 and merged to two together.







For the nose piece I sacrificed my B4.2 chassis and milled it to fit the 2.5mm carbon chassis plate from the B44.1. I was able to cut down the chassis to fit as well and flip the front top deck to the rear.

The motor position is farther forward that I want and if I decide to go to the VTS slipper I will move the motor rearward. I just need to cut a custom rear deck and mill out new areas for the motor mounts.

Set-ups like the C4.2 should work. I will be testing it this week and racing it next Saturday.
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Old 01-12-2014 | 07:30 PM
  #6701  
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Anyone know of anywhere with the avid chassis in stock? Been trying to find one but so far everyone is out of stock
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Old 01-12-2014 | 07:37 PM
  #6702  
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Out of stock here in ny / north nj. I want one too. Told 3 weeks or so. Befor there in stock
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Old 01-12-2014 | 07:40 PM
  #6703  
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well folks i thought id share
my .2 with you folks, received it for Christmas
just got it finished
7.5 LRP F/W
thx farmer
Attached Thumbnails The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread-madey-rc-cars-152.jpg   The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread-madey-rc-cars-133.jpg   The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread-madey-rc-cars-109.jpg  
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Old 01-12-2014 | 07:44 PM
  #6704  
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Originally Posted by TomErickson
I wanted to try mid motor but didn't want to get the C4.2 kit. After a trip to England racing Astroturf I really liked the Rudebits DB2 and the Team C TM2 so I decided to great the same architecture with AE parts. I got a donor B44.1 and merged to two together.







For the nose piece I sacrificed my B4.2 chassis and milled it to fit the 2.5mm carbon chassis plate from the B44.1. I was able to cut down the chassis to fit as well and flip the front top deck to the rear.

The motor position is farther forward that I want and if I decide to go to the VTS slipper I will move the motor rearward. I just need to cut a custom rear deck and mill out new areas for the motor mounts.

Set-ups like the C4.2 should work. I will be testing it this week and racing it next Saturday.
That is really nice. I would like to try that sometime. What size battery are you using in it?
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Old 01-12-2014 | 08:07 PM
  #6705  
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Like the orange wheels!! Looks good

Originally Posted by BakoFARMER
well folks i thought id share
my .2 with you folks, received it for Christmas
just got it finished
7.5 LRP F/W
thx farmer
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