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Old 01-07-2014 | 02:46 PM
  #6646  
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Originally Posted by redrash
so i noticed on my drive shafts there is wear rings towards the inside. it looks like as the suspension cycles up, the shaft actually rubs on the end of the outdrive. also, the last time i drove this thing, i clipped(ok...slammed) a pipe and broke an a-arm. when replacing it, i noticed 1/2 the outdrive was gone! so i was thinking that maybe the drive shaft flexed back enough(from the broken arm) and got wedged in the outdrive slot.
has anybody else noticed the shafts contacting the outdrives like this? i was thinking of using some fuel tubing over the shock shafts for bump stops to prevent this. any ideas?
Hideeho
I did something similar not long ago. I slipped the rear on the face of a jump & got SERIOUSLY out of control in the air. I ended up landing sideways (car was perpendicular the ground) & landed directly on a front axle. I broke the outdrive, but did not break the arm or even pop a ball cup (thank you jc!).

I have the same wear, but I don't think it is anything to worry about. I haven't seen it wear into a groove yet. I wear out the pins & the cva ball befor I get that much wear from the out drive.
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Old 01-08-2014 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
did you guys glue the retainer rings on the cvas?
I use CA glue...and also make sure there is no set screw in the CVA while you are there. the set screw will cause a bind.
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Old 01-08-2014 | 10:24 AM
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yeah, I checked. No set screws. I used a drop of CA on the rears. Just need to do the fronts and center driveline
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Old 01-08-2014 | 11:05 AM
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Heat shrink work great too. I still popped a clip the other day and it was previously glued ...
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Old 01-08-2014 | 02:31 PM
  #6650  
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Default CV Boots?

Just wanted to ask if the rubber CV boot covers they sell are worth investing money into? Do they actually prolong the amount of time in-between servicing and rebuilding them (not that it's hard or anything).

Also, one other question. I accidentally threw away the gearbox "Diff bolt cover (part 6575). I thought it was left over plastic when I cut out the T-nut. Anyway, would you guys waste your money on buying a Diff bolt cover (covers the head of the allen bolt) ?
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Old 01-08-2014 | 03:00 PM
  #6651  
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Originally Posted by Benende
Depending on the track I use a 81 spur and a 18 pinion
N00b Alert!! What brand do you guys recommend for the spur & pinion gears? Looks like AE doesn't sell an 18-tooth pinion gear? Thanks for your help in the matter. This is my first kit so please bare with me!

I'm assuming the 81T spur gear that's built into the slipper clutch is what I should use along with an 18-tooth pinion gear of some make/brand? The instructions don't say much other than "not included".

Last edited by Nismo370z; 01-08-2014 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 01-08-2014 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Nismo370z
N00b Alert!! What brand do you guys recommend for the spur & pinion gears? Looks like AE doesn't sell an 18-tooth pinion gear? Thanks for your help in the matter. This is my first kit so please bare with me!

I'm assuming the 81T spur gear that's built into the slipper clutch is what I should use along with an 18-tooth pinion gear of some make/brand? The instructions don't say much other than "not included".
Aluminum black pinion so it's light, and I have the abide slipper concerstion or use the jconcepts spur gear. It's all about less rotating mass!!!
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Old 01-08-2014 | 03:16 PM
  #6653  
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Originally Posted by Nismo370z
N00b Alert!! What brand do you guys recommend for the spur & pinion gears? Looks like AE doesn't sell what's being suggested? Thanks for your help in the matter. This is my first kit so please bare with me!
The spur gears are made by associated. I use a silent speed spur gear by Jconcepts. I'm sure other aftermarket companies also make spur gears. Just make sure they will fit the slipper. Pinion gears are made by many different companies. Any should do, just make sure they are 48 pitch. You can find pinions at your LHS or any online store.
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Old 01-08-2014 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mschumi101
The spur gears are made by associated. I use a silent speed spur gear by Jconcepts. I'm sure other aftermarket companies also make spur gears. Just make sure they will fit the slipper. Pinion gears are made by many different companies. Any should do, just make sure they are 48 pitch. You can find pinions at your LHS or any online store.
Such a critical component and the B44.2 instructions expect the average Joe to know what to get. Least they could have done is provided us with a list of combinations. Anyway, thanks, I'll look for a 48P/18T pinion gear it sounds like (aluminum)

Last edited by Nismo370z; 01-08-2014 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 01-08-2014 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Nismo370z
Such a critical component and the instructions expect the average Joe to know what to get. Anyway, thanks, I'll look for a 48P/18T pinion gear it sounds like (aluminum)
Robinson Racing and Precision Racing make good pinions among other companies. I'm pretty sure almost all will be aluminum though. This is a very advanced high end kit, so they probably assume you know some things already. If you haven't already, check out the first page of this thread because it has links to great videos to walk you through the build process and answer any questions you may have. While you are online or at the hobby shop grabbing a pinion gear invest in some new ball cups (jconcepts, RPM etc.) and a couple sets of front arms for while you are learning the car.
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Old 01-08-2014 | 03:47 PM
  #6656  
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Hey guys Im having a little bit of an issue here . I just finished the build on my B44.2 and Im having some setup issues . I have built the car using this setup for my local track as it is what I feel that best suits my track conditions.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...und2013041314/


* However the kit say to use the 5mm offset spring cup with the build . However I can't seem to achieve the 18mm ride height that is stated in the setup sheet I am going off of . Not sure if I should use the 0mm offset spring cup or the smallest out of the three that are included in the kit . Right now I got the middle size (5mm offset cups installed). I have my shocks eyelets bottoms out or screwed all the way in on the shock shafts I have set my toe,camber and everything else and double checked all my shims and shock hole locations .

So Im not to sure how to get the lower right height out of this buggy .

Any help would be great

Thanks in advance
Will,
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Old 01-08-2014 | 04:00 PM
  #6657  
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Originally Posted by yunowill
Hey guys Im having a little bit of an issue here . I just finished the build on my B44.2 and Im having some setup issues . I have built the car using this setup for my local track as it is what I feel that best suits my track conditions.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...und2013041314/


* However the kit say to use the 5mm offset spring cup with the build . However I can't seem to achieve the 18mm ride height that is stated in the setup sheet I am going off of . Not sure if I should use the 0mm offset spring cup or the smallest out of the three that are included in the kit . Right now I got the middle size (5mm offset cups installed). I have my shocks eyelets bottoms out or screwed all the way in on the shock shafts I have set my toe,camber and everything else and double checked all my shims and shock hole locations .

So Im not to sure how to get the lower right height out of this buggy .

Any help would be great

Thanks in advance
Will,

Do you have the shock spring collars all the way up? That is how you set the ride height. If they are topped out then try the 0mm spring cup, but you should be able to lower it using the collars. With the 0mm spring cups I can get the buggy to about 8mm ride height with a couple turns on the collars for a carpet track with no jumps.
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Old 01-09-2014 | 10:46 AM
  #6658  
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Default Charging Saddle Packs

Okay, n00b question again - Is it possible to charge both Saddle Pack batteries at the same time (with one charger)? I have the Reedy 5700mah 65C SP batteries for my B44.2

The instructions for the battery SUCK saying basically don't blow the battery up, don't overcharge and all sorts of other safety common sense. Yet, it didn't explain how the heck to charge the batteries nor did it explain how to hook the batteries up.

I've got three cables if I recall correctly. One black cable has a small metal tube taped alongside the wire. I'm guessing that's supposed to be a ground of some sort? The other cable(s) has the lipo balancing cable integrated with them but I honestly have no idea how to charge these things. One end of the cables has pre-soldered connections (i'm guessing for the ESC) and the other have bullet/tube connectors (not sure what they are called).

For what's it's worth, I'm using a Thunder Power Lipo charger with external balance board. I've charged Lipo's for Airsoft guns and RC Airplanes with no problems in the past. Clearly I've been out of the RC car hobby way to long if I can't figure out how to charge a dang battery.
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Old 01-09-2014 | 11:02 AM
  #6659  
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i TYPED A LONG MESSAGE AND MESSED IT UP. WHAT MODEL CHARGER AND CHECK YOU TUBE FOR CHARGING VIDEOS. FING CAPS LOCK.....

also with saddle packs you need connector and jumper with a balance connector
like this: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...llet-Connector

start with this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNTL8-y0hYs
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Old 01-09-2014 | 11:15 AM
  #6660  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
i TYPED A LONG MESSAGE AND MESSED IT UP. WHAT MODEL CHARGER AND CHECK YOU TUBE FOR CHARGING VIDEOS. FING CAPS LOCK.....

also with saddle packs you need connector and jumper with a balance connector
like this: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...llet-Connector

start with this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNTL8-y0hYs

Thanks man, yeah, the TP610c with DC inputs only is what I have - I know how to use my charger no problem, it's just the funky Reedy batteries. I'll just google it, ty.
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