Official Tekin RX8 GEN2 ESC Thread
#1636
oh, wow. I figured it would age out the old logs once it was full or near full. Ok, I will make sure I clear the logs. I cleared my logs on my rs last week, so I might check them again. I am taking my laptop to the track tomorrow and plan to get fresh logs.
Just as an FYI, its pretty standard practice in IT to age out log generally speaking. The theory is that old logs are no as useful, unless for historical purposes. And for that, I would assume if you cares about historical logs, you would off load them to your laptop. As racers, we are often most concerned with what just happened in the last race. Maybe something that can be updated at a later date. Maybe even have the option to fill and stop or rotate and age out.
Just as an FYI, its pretty standard practice in IT to age out log generally speaking. The theory is that old logs are no as useful, unless for historical purposes. And for that, I would assume if you cares about historical logs, you would off load them to your laptop. As racers, we are often most concerned with what just happened in the last race. Maybe something that can be updated at a later date. Maybe even have the option to fill and stop or rotate and age out.
#1638
oh, wow. I figured it would age out the old logs once it was full or near full. Ok, I will make sure I clear the logs. I cleared my logs on my rs last week, so I might check them again. I am taking my laptop to the track tomorrow and plan to get fresh logs.
Just as an FYI, its pretty standard practice in IT to age out log generally speaking. The theory is that old logs are no as useful, unless for historical purposes. And for that, I would assume if you cares about historical logs, you would off load them to your laptop. As racers, we are often most concerned with what just happened in the last race. Maybe something that can be updated at a later date. Maybe even have the option to fill and stop or rotate and age out.
Just as an FYI, its pretty standard practice in IT to age out log generally speaking. The theory is that old logs are no as useful, unless for historical purposes. And for that, I would assume if you cares about historical logs, you would off load them to your laptop. As racers, we are often most concerned with what just happened in the last race. Maybe something that can be updated at a later date. Maybe even have the option to fill and stop or rotate and age out.
Clearing the log doesn't require the Hotwire and is easily done simply by powering up the car, holding the "inc" button down until the unit chimes and reboots. Log cleared
#1640
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 371
From: North Queensland
does anyone have a method for removing the rear bearing ?
I have 2 motors which need rear bearing replaced,but cant see a way to get old one out,ie its stuck in the carrier.
looks like the original bearing is fitted in the carrier ,then the sensor board glued on,not centralised .do we have to cut the board to get it out?
johno
I have 2 motors which need rear bearing replaced,but cant see a way to get old one out,ie its stuck in the carrier.
looks like the original bearing is fitted in the carrier ,then the sensor board glued on,not centralised .do we have to cut the board to get it out?

johno
#1641
does anyone have a method for removing the rear bearing ?
I have 2 motors which need rear bearing replaced,but cant see a way to get old one out,ie its stuck in the carrier.
looks like the original bearing is fitted in the carrier ,then the sensor board glued on,not centralised .do we have to cut the board to get it out?
johno
I have 2 motors which need rear bearing replaced,but cant see a way to get old one out,ie its stuck in the carrier.
looks like the original bearing is fitted in the carrier ,then the sensor board glued on,not centralised .do we have to cut the board to get it out?

johno
I haven't had my gen2 540 motor apart yet but most go like this.
You take the end cap off, there should be screws securing the sensor board to the inside of the end cap, remove.
Heat the oven to about 300°.
Put the end cap in the freezer for a while, that will cool and shink the metal of the steel bearing and the aluminum end cap.
Put the end cap in the oven for a minute on its back so the aluminum is touching the oven grates.
The aluminum should heat faster than the steel bearing and open up a bit to let the bearing that's still relatively cool drop out.
Tap it bearing side down on a couple wood blocks spaced so that the outside edges of the cap hit but there is space in between for the bearing to drop out freely.
It may take a few trys to figure out the time in the oven and the tap to get the bearing to drop out but you'll get it after a few trys.
Last edited by fq06; 01-04-2014 at 08:57 PM.
#1643
It takes a few trys, even after doing it if its been a few months it takes me a couple runs at it to get it. You gotta really bang it down, try to get it to where its just warm and the bearings still cold so you don't have to fuss with oven mitts to hold it.
Once in a blue moon the stars are lined up just right and it pops out on the 1st go... but that's rare
I've heard some have had luck with a hooked dental pick also.
New bearing in: freeze new bearing and heat cap then push cold bearing in warm cap.
Once in a blue moon the stars are lined up just right and it pops out on the 1st go... but that's rare

I've heard some have had luck with a hooked dental pick also.
New bearing in: freeze new bearing and heat cap then push cold bearing in warm cap.
#1644
does anyone have a method for removing the rear bearing ?
I have 2 motors which need rear bearing replaced,but cant see a way to get old one out,ie its stuck in the carrier.
looks like the original bearing is fitted in the carrier ,then the sensor board glued on,not centralised .do we have to cut the board to get it out?
johno
I have 2 motors which need rear bearing replaced,but cant see a way to get old one out,ie its stuck in the carrier.
looks like the original bearing is fitted in the carrier ,then the sensor board glued on,not centralised .do we have to cut the board to get it out?

johno
Gently drive out the bearing. It's a press fit and is required to hold the bearing into place. Support the sensor board on it's bolt flange and lightly tap out the bearing.
FRONT Bearing is located in the front endbell(aluminum):
This bearing is glued in place. Simply support the endbell flange, tap out the bearing. In some VERY extreme cases a little warm up some hot water(you're replacing the bearing anyhow) will help loosen the adhesive.
#1645
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 371
From: North Queensland

I hope i dont break it / them (got 2 stuck) Ive changed a few of these ,but only these 2 very tight .
1 Question .Does a bearing come with the replacement sensor assly.ie is it easier to replace the whole assly ?
#1646
Yeah, sorry, just got home and looked at my Tekin 540 and the back cap is open. Those are the easy ones, the closed caps are a real pain that the above process I mentioned is for.
Listen to Randy, he knows what he's doing
Listen to Randy, he knows what he's doing
#1649
thanks randy ,i have just watched the video ,and will try again.
I hope i dont break it / them (got 2 stuck) Ive changed a few of these ,but only these 2 very tight .
1 Question .Does a bearing come with the replacement sensor assly.ie is it easier to replace the whole assly ?

I hope i dont break it / them (got 2 stuck) Ive changed a few of these ,but only these 2 very tight .
1 Question .Does a bearing come with the replacement sensor assly.ie is it easier to replace the whole assly ?
#1650



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