You can try the shorter steering rack. It will give you more turn in.

Cam doesn't move and end points are set properly.

Does the shorter rack (Ackerman right?) make the wheels turn more? Is that why there is a short and long rack in losa4412 package?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ng-Hardware-20

I run the short 100% all the time.

The shorter Ackerman does not make the wheels turn more; it makes the angle between the wheels open more when turning and that causes the inside tire to scrub which makes the car turn more quickly. I agree with integra. It's the way to go for everyone that knows how to steer.

I just read my post above and realized in take myself way too serious. Lol.. Any way I did something I never had before. The inner bearing on the front diff pinion was pushed through the housing down and to the right about 1mm.

Been trying to figure out why my truggy isn't turning especially on power (even off power too).

Completely new steering hardware and Ackerman. 12degree caster block and spindles. EPA set properly. Aluminum servo arm and saver set towards the tight side. 2 degrees negative camber all around.

From the pic below you can see the wheels come about 1/3 to 1/2 an inch from touching the arms. I've read ALOT of this thread and many people state how good the truggy turns. Many people say how their wheels touch their arms and a few where the wheels touch the turnbuckles. It just seems my wheels aren't getting full turn. It's turning radius at low speed is wide.

What am I missing?

I once had the caster blocks backwards and caused a similar issue...
And might want to ditch those purple springs for racing...

Make sure your camber links are the correct length. If your lower links are too long, you will lose steering.

you can grind the steering knuckles and caster block a little to get more steering angle. i had to do the same with the inclined blocks. even grinded the palastic ones too. you dont want too much steering angle though as it will make the car suddenly make a U turn.

lol, caster blocks are on properly. Yeah been watching the front end at the track recenly and going to try softer ones.

they are the proper length (2 mm too short actually) and will adjust juuuuust to make sure but I doubt 2mm would do it.

I ordered the stock casters and carriers to see if the aluminum ones I have are the issue. I had even dremeled the inside of the knuckles where it touches the carrier.

any other thoughts?

you guys that have/are responding do your wheels touch the arms when turned full lock? If they don't touch how close are they? pic?

thx

Are the knuckles black and aluminum?
My wheels can touch.

yes.

I bought the roller with most of these parts on them. Got the stock plastic knuckles and blocks arriving today and will check. Mixmatched aluminum casters and knuckles maybe?

Yep. Sounds like you have the Inclined spindles/knuckles which are black and aluminum.
They do not go with those castor blocks. They need to be paired with the black aluminum castor blocks.
The silver set (12*) of castor blocks can go with the plastic spindles (2.0 not 3.0) but not with the black aluminum spindles.

With the hopups this is one of the best turning truggies Ive ever driven.

Is your servo traveling enough. Ive seen this several times where people dont extend the travel of the servo when needed.

You sure its the right