Wildcat, I got tired of replacing 1-2 arms per weekend so without knowing about the O-ring trick I simply pulled out carbon fibre rowing from my previous life (RC airplanes) and wrapped it around the front, added epoxy…

I had one major crash with plenty of collateral damage to the front end, but overall much less time in the pits replacing arms...

do the new "hard" arms hold up a little better?

In my opinion, yes. they don't seem to be nearly as brittle as the carbon arms can be, and have held up very well for me so far. That said, I didn't tend to break arms very often before, so YMMV

I drive fairly conservatively. My track does not have huge triple or anything of the sort. In fact 17.5 sc can clear everything. I would hope the car holds up well for me. In my b4, my outdrives were not even slightly notched after a year. so I will cross my fingers, lol.

I would say it is because your chassis is not balanced. This is a big problem in onroad cars if you are not close to a 50/50 weight distribution side to side. Try rearranging your electronics to get a better weight distribution before adding weight. It is a good idea to check for tweak too. While the chassis being warped is the largest problem, it could be tweaked elsewhere such as in the upper deck or tower mounts. Ensure all of this is straight as well.

No problem. I installed 5k both front and rear and tossed it on the track yesterday morning. First impression was AWESOME! Turn in felt better to me and without worrying about stripping gears I felt more comfortable getting on it harder.

First race, felt really good. About 4 minutes in I landed on the face of a double and my right rear tire was locked up. Once the race was over I checked it out. Somehow the dog bone came right out of the diff outdrive and wedged itself between the arm and battery box. There isn't much droop and the outdrives sit pretty far in so I am unsure as to how that happened.

Second race, again, it felt good. I wasn't pushing it as much and noticed that in my lap times that weren't as fast. Finished this race without issue.

Third race, was around mid pack, trying to pick out good lines and be smooth and consistant. I landed on power (I think) awkwardly on the face of another jump and the car seemed to be three wheeling. I pulled off and upon inspection the right front Durango diff outdrive was split. One portion was completely gone and sheered off. I was baffled so I grabbed my spare diff and put it in. Upon further inspection the diff case top was cracked on that side so the front right diff case screw wasn't securing the case correctly. I put the blame on that allowing the case to flex/move. I will say the gear teeth looked mint, and I thrashed on it pretty good.

Main comes up and there are 11 of us out there. I'm one of two running gear diffs in a B44.2. The other kid is a partially sponsored AE driver who is very fast! I finished the main, but stupid mistakes put me in the back of the pack.

After the main I took a few more rips around the track. I felt it was a good idea, but in hindsight I should have quit. In my third or fourth lap I come onto the straight and peg full throttle. My buggy drifts towards the inside pipe, left tires go over and I go nose first into a bolt sticking out of the pipe. All looked ok, but once i pulled the body off I accesed the damage.

Spur gear - I hit so hard that my esc ripped off my servo tape and the capacitor hit the spur stripping the teeth.

RX - again hit so hard it ripped off the servo tape holding it down

Cam mount- the cam attached to the motor actually broke in two.

I pulled the cam mount out of my other 44.2, replaced the spur and tested it. All seems fine.

The AVID chassis is incredible! I absolutely feel it is a great upgrade. Before the race I swapped over my Lunsford Punisher turnbuckles/ball cups to my gear diff'd 44.2 and had no issues with them whatsoever. I was also in the mood to swap out the stock battery straps with the Jconcepts straps.

I have since ordered another AVID chassis, set of Lunsford Punisher turnbuckles/ball cups, Lunsford Ti hingepins, Lunsford Ti shock mounts, and the motor cam/plate assembly. Some parts are for the 2nd 44.2 and some are for this one.

I now have no really desire to touch my Durango. It's a great buggy, but with the new gear diffs installed in the 44.2 the one thing that made me drive the buggy too easy isn't a worry any more.

I'll be sending out another set of pinions/CVA shafts to Bugle Boy so I can get another conversion done. It is that good IMO.

I think so. I did it and broke one arm in practice yesterday. I took some gnarly hits and crashes so that was impressive. Lets just say I was getting some MAJOR air. If only I had filmed yesterday you would see what i'm talking about.

My b44.2 and Serpent Spyder ready for next week

Wildcat dont worry youll be fine, people are talking like this car is destin to break and it is poorly designed? They must be noobs.... Just don't crash into the wall at full throttle an font launch and land on pipes sideways and you will be fine. Like I said I'm not the greatest driver but I haven't broken anything on this new car yet except a cva pin.

Ps. And don't try to quad the double doubles if you haven't seen it done yet. Lol

Making a cow plow bumper with O rings , never gona break a arm again ...


Braaaaaaa ......

Here is the broken Durango out drive.

well, my used roller arrived. Spent an hour removing servo tape.....serious who even uses that foam crap. The dives feel smooth, but I fear they might be too loose. Both fell like they are about 1/4 turn back. How tight should I run them? After 20 minutes I was able to get the mesh I liked....not fun... I had some issues with the wiring. the speed passion cap is soooo big. Its sandwiched between the servo and the esc for now. How do I go about setting the slipper for a wheeler. I am sure the hold the rear wheels and blip it if fail. Also, I dont think the previous owner sealed the CF........ I will google a video on how to do it, but do I really need to? lol.



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What oils are you running bud? Ive just fitted these in my avid b44. Ill be running them indoors on slippy floor/carpet and a medium to high bite, gym running floor. (like a textured rubber almost). Running 10k front 7k rear to start.

Sanding and sealing the edges of the carbon fiber on modern off road RC cars is a waste of time and CA. This was done back in the day with early pan cars that hit asphalt and concrete really hard and the old cheap carbon would split. I've never seen a modern off road car chassis delaminate or even the shock towers split. The shock tower will snap clean off and no amount of CA will save that.

Don't waste your time. My .02's

Agreed. You don't need to seal the carbon at all. I haven't on my B44.2 or on my touring cars. It will hold up just fine and not delaminate. If you really feel compelled to still seal it though, apply CA to a qtip and run it along the edges, or place a drop and let it slide down the edge of the chassis.

Wildcat1971 - I didn't seal any of the carbon. A bit of an issue on the shock tower but nothing major. The ball diffs after a rebuild I usually tighten very tight then just back up a 1/12th a turn at a time till I get them where I want.

Your best bet is to rewire the buggy. There is so much extra wire on your buggy you can drop. Get rid of the deans too. Low-pro bullet connectors are your best bet.

Also check the slipper nut. It looks like its right up against the front out drive which is going to be too loose. You'll have to get a feel for how tight you need it.

Make sure the diffs, especially the rear, is shimmed nice and tight. Start with the manual spec'd shims on each side. I almost always have to add one or two to the ring gear side.

I'd turn your esc so the motor wires are facing the motor. Then solder them under the front deck.

Redo the jumper wire a bit shorter and run it under the deck. Your battery pack won't allow it to hit the driveshaft.


Here is how my two sit for now. Notice the minimal amount of wiring. I ran extra servo wire between the servo and esc. So far I haven't had any issues.