Hideeho
What the offset:none is referring to is offset from stock. AE referring to the offset as "none" is similar to them referring to the b4.2 chassis being +8mm. The +8mm chassis is standard now, but it is 8mm longer than the original b4 chassis, therefore it is +8mm. The wheels they make for both the b4.x & b44.x are the same offset as the original wheels, therefore the offset is "none". The stock offset for a b4.x wheel is different from the stock offset of a b44.x wheel. Measure it & see.

Offset is measured from the inside of the wheel hex (not the recessed part, but the part that is closest to the middle of the buggy) to the center line of the wheel. I believe the off set of the b4.x wheel is zero (or close to it). The offset of the b44.x wheel is positive. A positive offset means the inside of the wheel hex is farther from the middle of the buggy than the center line of the wheel.

For a better explanation (with pictures ) go here: http://cocomponents.com/dealer/blog/...set-explained/

The reason people are concerned about this is decreasing the offset increases the track width of the buggy. This is not necessarily a good thing. Increasing the track width will make that end feel more stable (smooth, consistent, easier to control at the limit), but decrease overall side traction (more push both on & off power, lower overall maximum limit of side traction). In some circumstances that may be desirable & tunable with other settings, but not in most. In addition to that if you actually follow roar rules & get your car teched when you race, you may be too wide to be allowed to run.

How necessary do you guys think the Jconcepts alum bell crank is? I know it was a night and day difference having an alum bell crank on my B4 any thoughts?

As far as slop goes, it's not a big difference but the extra adjustment hole works, especially on a tighter or light traction track.

Hey guys I got my bugle boy gear diff conversion coming in the mail any day now .

I would just like to ask what is a good starting point for front a rear diff oil ?

I am running on high traction carpet track .

Thanks in advance
Will,

what dose this do by droping the wing some
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Mount-Set-Blue

I am interested in getting a kit 1/10 buggy and like the B44.2 kit.

What motor/ESC/servo is the best bang for your buck for the B44.2?

Just got my gear diff conversion done and curious about this too. Haven't been able to do any testing yet but someone in an earlier post recommended 10k f/r. I looked at the Durango setups and they run 10-30k depending on the bite. I'm starting with 10k for a medium bite track and tune from there.

If you looking to save money, go with a speed passion reventon pro esc combo with a speed passion 6.5t motor. Just watch your motor temps. Speed passion motors are very sensitive to heat. But if you want a good system that will be competiive and worth the investment go with an LRP Flow works team esc and an LRP motor or tekin gen 2 motor. I have used both systems in my b44.2 and you will be satisfied with them.

Can you post pictures

What about mamba?

I dont have or run gear diffs in mine, but I read that at the worlds (a very high grip track, similar to carpet) Hartson ran 10k front and 7k rear. Besides the gear diffs and avid chassis, it was an all stock car.

The mamba max pro was my first esc in my b44.2. It was good for getting back in to rc, bashing and running sensorless motors and when I ran a sensored motors it seemed twitchy. If you are buying a b44.2 then you are looking to race and you will want a race quality esc. Just look at other racers at your local track, no one runs them for a reason.

I use durango gear diffs, avid chassis and jconcept alu steering bellcrank. I run AE 10k in the front, and 7k in the rear. I would start from this setup. The car has a lot of steering and drives superb. However i drive on high grip carpet, but think it would work great too on clay.

Thanks for the advice. I have the same chassis and will give it a try.

I have the identical setup as him and run on clay. On medium bite 10k front and rear made the ass way to loose. It would over rotate and follow the the front. Dropped the rear to 7k and it calmed it down a lot. Going to try 7k front and 5 rear next and see if thats better as it still has a slight tendency to follow the front and over rotate on power. When the bite s really high its fine, when its loose it needs lighter fluids IMO