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Old 11-17-2013 | 04:57 AM
  #19861  
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Re the amount of steering travel on my M05, I've left my servo alone and haven't reduced the overall travel at all. Is this the norm? Or do people back it off a little? All I've done to reduce travel is use the steering system and hub rear mounting holes. I also set -50% exponential to reduce the sensitivity when on long partial steering sweepers.

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Old 11-17-2013 | 05:05 AM
  #19862  
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Ryan

The numbers refer to how hard the rubber is, referred to as shore. It's normal to run a harder tyre up front. Probably as you did with m and s grips
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Old 11-17-2013 | 05:11 AM
  #19863  
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Originally Posted by markrobinson
Ryan

The numbers refer to how hard the rubber is, referred to as shore. It's normal to run a harder tyre up front. Probably as you did with m and s grips
Ah I see, thank you
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Old 11-17-2013 | 08:43 PM
  #19864  
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Ok so I have had a few good runs with the CA'ed fronts and have been playing with turning down the D/R to additionally tune out the dreaded traction roll. The CA'ed fronts went a long way to taming the car down as has the turning down of the D/R. I have tried many of the tips and suggestions given here. They have all helped LOADS.

My problem is as traction comes up over the day it still gets harder and harder to keep all 4 on the ground. Usually towards the end of the second heat I start 3 wheeling. In the main I look like a stunt driver going around corners on 2 wheels. Now it doesn't seem to me that I am really driving any faster in the corners. But we all know its not often the case.

So here is the question. I remember being told to try CA on the rears to further quell the beast. But inside or outside first? Is there another point of focus I am forgetting? I will review my bookmarks in my online mini info folder to see if I am missing something as well.

Jason
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Old 11-18-2013 | 06:25 AM
  #19865  
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The Honda CR-X Raybrig is very nice, you have pictures more size?
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Old 11-18-2013 | 06:50 AM
  #19866  
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Originally Posted by fresnojay
Ok so I have had a few good runs with the CA'ed fronts and have been playing with turning down the D/R to additionally tune out the dreaded traction roll. The CA'ed fronts went a long way to taming the car down as has the turning down of the D/R. I have tried many of the tips and suggestions given here. They have all helped LOADS.

My problem is as traction comes up over the day it still gets harder and harder to keep all 4 on the ground. Usually towards the end of the second heat I start 3 wheeling. In the main I look like a stunt driver going around corners on 2 wheels. Now it doesn't seem to me that I am really driving any faster in the corners. But we all know its not often the case.

So here is the question. I remember being told to try CA on the rears to further quell the beast. But inside or outside first? Is there another point of focus I am forgetting? I will review my bookmarks in my online mini info folder to see if I am missing something as well.

Jason
Always the outside, occasionally the inside also. Try this on the fronts. Carry the cyano right onto the tread itself and cover just the edge of the 1st rib. It's better on asphalt to go too far than not far enough. The reason being that the cyano will wear back to where it should be in a few batteries. If you go too far the car will push till it wears off. If you did not go far enough, you'll continue to have traction rolling problems.

These suggestions are for asphalt only and particularly Tamiya S-Grip tires. Carpet is a different story cause the cyano takes forever to wear down. If you go too far there, you'll probably have to manually trim it back on something like a tire truer.
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Old 11-18-2013 | 08:00 AM
  #19867  
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Grandpa, I have ca on both inside and out but tested which handled better on our track, Inside only vs inside and out. The inside and out was hands down better. But looks like I need to run it up the tread some more. Will do some more testing on the fronts before I mess with the rears. Thanks for that.

Jason
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Old 11-18-2013 | 10:12 AM
  #19868  
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Originally Posted by fresnojay
Grandpa, I have ca on both inside and out but tested which handled better on our track, Inside only vs inside and out. The inside and out was hands down better. But looks like I need to run it up the tread some more. Will do some more testing on the fronts before I mess with the rears. Thanks for that.

Jason
You can also do the outside of the rears, but it will in some cases make the car "loose". Whether you want to do that depends on what your car is doing or what your set up is. For example, when using the 1.0 blocks on the rear, you usually don't want to cyano the rears. when the 2.0 blocks are used, I generally will use cyano on the rears. Cyano when using the 2.0 rear blocks or rear uprights will help the car rotate better.

Couple of other points, using cyano on the inside doesn't do much, but may help in extreme cases. When using cyano on the rears, don't go as far. Carry the cyano short of the treads.

These are just general suggestions only. The amount and how far will vary from car to car and the amount of grip you have at your track. Where I run, we often have to change tires and change the set ups a bit to accommodate the track conditions on that day.
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Old 11-18-2013 | 10:35 AM
  #19869  
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Personally I have never found CA glue on the rear to work for any condition. The CA glue is there to reduce the traction, once the car rolls over onto the CA, so it doesnt continue to roll over. The benefit of CA on the front tires, once the car rolls to the CA, the car will understeer, which can be controllable. However, if you run CA on the rear, your car will spin out as soon as it reaches the CA on the rear tires.

Also CA only on the outside. Inside of the tire does not work.
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Old 11-18-2013 | 01:13 PM
  #19870  
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Danish M-Chassis race last weekend

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTs82WHcyH8
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Old 11-18-2013 | 09:01 PM
  #19871  
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Originally Posted by markrobinson
Ryan

The numbers refer to how hard the rubber is, referred to as shore. It's normal to run a harder tyre up front. Probably as you did with m and s grips
Do you use additive on the sweeps? Or do they just work on carpet?
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Old 11-19-2013 | 12:25 AM
  #19872  
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Originally Posted by Boons
Do you use additive on the sweeps? Or do they just work on carpet?
I clean and apply additive every run. When I've forgotten to do this I find the tyres "come in" on the 3rd or 4th lap
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Old 11-19-2013 | 01:42 PM
  #19873  
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Hey, not much mini action in this, but a film-maker has begun a documentary series on RC racing in western Canada. He's starting with our WCICS series. (biggest in the world!) The first episode is online. Some of these guys are incredible, world class drivers and a few can completely blitz the competition in mini. Have a look!

Come Drive With Us - Part 1
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Old 11-19-2013 | 02:01 PM
  #19874  
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I have the 54410 lightweight swing shafts fitted to my universal drives but it turns out they are made from blancmange.







Is it possible to get the original swing shaft as a separate item or will I have to but the whole UJ ?
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Old 11-19-2013 | 04:36 PM
  #19875  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Hey, not much mini action in this, but a film-maker has begun a documentary series on RC racing in western Canada. He's starting with our WCICS series. (biggest in the world!) The first episode is online. Some of these guys are incredible, world class drivers and a few can completely blitz the competition in mini. Have a look!

Come Drive With Us - Part 1
Thanks for posting this, good stuff!
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