The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread
11-11-2013 | 12:29 PM
#6136
Really? Going to the front hole on the JC rack is the single best adjustment I have ever made on this car! Indoor/outdoor the steering just feels right.
11-11-2013 | 12:34 PM
#6137
I was running Panthers all around and was slipping and sliding. Figured I'd experiment a bit and wow, I was glued to the track. I generally try what the top guys run but everyone was a bit loose that day and looking for grip. This is what worked best.
11-11-2013 | 05:07 PM
#6138
It just seemed to dumb it down too much on the high grip inddor I was running. I'm sure I will try it again, only takes a minute to swap and reset end points. Maybe going back to one washer (from 1.5) under the inner rear ballstud and the front ack hole could work out different.
11-11-2013 | 06:46 PM
#6139
^^^ Uhm no.
While I support Associated and love the 44, my Durango is indeed better. Not by much, but better nonetheless. There is a reason team Drivers are running 410 Diff's on their 44's and being that they are competitors, it says a whole lot about the 410. I was skeptical about going with a 410 over the 44 after driving a 44, but I couldn't be happier with the choice. Initially I was not feeling the car and had to throttle steer to whip the rear end around, but a few changes like the 21° blocks, losing the side weights, proper shock oils and and excellent tires and the buggy is flat out better than my 44. Again, it's not by much, but when it comes to racing begin a tad better each lap means you stretch your lead that much more. Over the course of a race it can be as much as a full lap or 2 which is significant.
My Durango is also much more precise int he fitment of parts so it takes input a bit more crisply than the 44. The XB4 from what I understand is heavily based off "another" 4WD with a few refinements and improvements of their own and that car is also excellent. 2 of the local guys run XB4's and their cars a glued to the track but as I hone my skills to what they once were I'm inching ever closer to them. Had my rear hub set screw not backed out on me last Sunday, I'd have come in at least 2nd, possibly 1st. I was on a tear. Behind us were a slew of 44s, Schumachers, a few 410s' and I think a Yokomo.
But mine was hands down the prettiest thing at the track. Not even close! LOL
Sorry, I know it's an Associated thread, but those damn 10+hours of removing ultra-thin mask (buddy of mine screwed me) and the 5 hours of paint… Gosh carnet, I'm dan proud of this paint job!
While I support Associated and love the 44, my Durango is indeed better. Not by much, but better nonetheless. There is a reason team Drivers are running 410 Diff's on their 44's and being that they are competitors, it says a whole lot about the 410. I was skeptical about going with a 410 over the 44 after driving a 44, but I couldn't be happier with the choice. Initially I was not feeling the car and had to throttle steer to whip the rear end around, but a few changes like the 21° blocks, losing the side weights, proper shock oils and and excellent tires and the buggy is flat out better than my 44. Again, it's not by much, but when it comes to racing begin a tad better each lap means you stretch your lead that much more. Over the course of a race it can be as much as a full lap or 2 which is significant.
My Durango is also much more precise int he fitment of parts so it takes input a bit more crisply than the 44. The XB4 from what I understand is heavily based off "another" 4WD with a few refinements and improvements of their own and that car is also excellent. 2 of the local guys run XB4's and their cars a glued to the track but as I hone my skills to what they once were I'm inching ever closer to them. Had my rear hub set screw not backed out on me last Sunday, I'd have come in at least 2nd, possibly 1st. I was on a tear. Behind us were a slew of 44s, Schumachers, a few 410s' and I think a Yokomo.
But mine was hands down the prettiest thing at the track. Not even close! LOL
Sorry, I know it's an Associated thread, but those damn 10+hours of removing ultra-thin mask (buddy of mine screwed me) and the 5 hours of paint… Gosh carnet, I'm dan proud of this paint job!
11-11-2013 | 07:12 PM
#6140
Hey Cherry, maybe you can help me with a small setup issue, my 44 is planted all around the track, feels great except for the 180 degree turn after the triple double, it wants to push wide and makes it hard to set up good for the next double.
It might be my tires, I am running BK bars on the front instead of barcodes
And one more thing, I am running a Trinity revtech 9.5, geared 20/81, no boost, no timing and it is running out of steam on the straight, should I add some ESC timing or just add a bigger pinion? I want to keep my temps manageable.
It might be my tires, I am running BK bars on the front instead of barcodes
And one more thing, I am running a Trinity revtech 9.5, geared 20/81, no boost, no timing and it is running out of steam on the straight, should I add some ESC timing or just add a bigger pinion? I want to keep my temps manageable.
Night and day.
11-11-2013 | 10:48 PM
#6143
Had to watch window installers on Saturday
morning at the building .
Did send you JW & Matesa to help make up for ..
Clark get his MM yet ?
You need to try the Trcr real soon as it is a really good 4w layout .
Will even dust off my pink 4w for U ..
All gone & new layout in 2 weeks ...
morning at the building .
Did send you JW & Matesa to help make up for ..
Clark get his MM yet ?
You need to try the Trcr real soon as it is a really good 4w layout .
Will even dust off my pink 4w for U ..
All gone & new layout in 2 weeks ...
JW was looking good out there.
11-12-2013 | 07:51 AM
#6144
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 476
From: Ontario, Canada
Hi.
I'm having a strange problem with my 44.2. If I tighten down the rear two screws on the slipper cover it binds up, preventing it from spinning freely. If I loosen them up, well, if I remove them, it frees everything up and rolls smoothly. For example, with those screws out, if I turn a rear wheel, the entire drivetrain spins. If insert the screws, not even all they, let 's say 25%, the drivetrain binds enough that when I turn a rear wheel it activates the diff rather than spinning everything.
Am I making sense?
This is without the pinion installed, so the motor is not a factor, and I am using the stock plastic slipper cap and the stock rear plastic slipper mount.
I noticed this after I rebuilt my diffs last week.
I'm having a strange problem with my 44.2. If I tighten down the rear two screws on the slipper cover it binds up, preventing it from spinning freely. If I loosen them up, well, if I remove them, it frees everything up and rolls smoothly. For example, with those screws out, if I turn a rear wheel, the entire drivetrain spins. If insert the screws, not even all they, let 's say 25%, the drivetrain binds enough that when I turn a rear wheel it activates the diff rather than spinning everything.
Am I making sense?
This is without the pinion installed, so the motor is not a factor, and I am using the stock plastic slipper cap and the stock rear plastic slipper mount.
I noticed this after I rebuilt my diffs last week.
11-12-2013 | 08:08 AM
#6145
I don't think AE using Durango diffs for an extremely high bite track (sugared) says anything about the Durango. For a high bite track, gear diffs make sense and the 410 diffs fit without much modifications...that's it. If AE develops their own version then they will drop the Durango units faster than third period French.
I think any gear diffs from Associated will only be released when they unveil a totally new 4WD vehicle. As it is I find the 44 ball diffs work perfectly fine as is for any type of surface but you need to fine tune the slippage according to the track which some people find to be too much work even though Associated made it very easy to access the adjustment screw. Sometimes it needs to be a tad tighter, other times looser and the slipper needs to be adjusted accordingly. And while I love my 410 as is, I wonder how it would do with ball diffs. I've always thought about a combination front to rear and how that could potentially affect/improve the fine tuning ability of a car. Maybe it's not a practical solution but if you could adjust slip in the rear independent from the center slipper and be hard geared up front for outright torque, perhaps you can get it to where it's so balanced the car will seem to be glued to the track.
The 413 is all Geared up in all 3 areas and seems to be doing fantastic but I find slippers easy to work on and contrary to what I've read, they last a really long time between rebuilds.
11-12-2013 | 08:11 AM
#6146
Hi.
I'm having a strange problem with my 44.2. If I tighten down the rear two screws on the slipper cover it binds up, preventing it from spinning freely. If I loosen them up, well, if I remove them, it frees everything up and rolls smoothly. For example, with those screws out, if I turn a rear wheel, the entire drivetrain spins. If insert the screws, not even all they, let 's say 25%, the drivetrain binds enough that when I turn a rear wheel it activates the diff rather than spinning everything.
Am I making sense?
This is without the pinion installed, so the motor is not a factor, and I am using the stock plastic slipper cap and the stock rear plastic slipper mount.
I noticed this after I rebuilt my diffs last week.
I'm having a strange problem with my 44.2. If I tighten down the rear two screws on the slipper cover it binds up, preventing it from spinning freely. If I loosen them up, well, if I remove them, it frees everything up and rolls smoothly. For example, with those screws out, if I turn a rear wheel, the entire drivetrain spins. If insert the screws, not even all they, let 's say 25%, the drivetrain binds enough that when I turn a rear wheel it activates the diff rather than spinning everything.
Am I making sense?
This is without the pinion installed, so the motor is not a factor, and I am using the stock plastic slipper cap and the stock rear plastic slipper mount.
I noticed this after I rebuilt my diffs last week.
11-12-2013 | 09:10 AM
#6149
It was posed a little while ago and I think the AE site has the list.
You can also pick up the Avid chassis and their .1 to .2 conversion kit... there is also a spacer for the slipper I think if you are going to keep the 2 pad slipper.
Of course the big bore shocks from AE as well.
You can also pick up the Avid chassis and their .1 to .2 conversion kit... there is also a spacer for the slipper I think if you are going to keep the 2 pad slipper.
Of course the big bore shocks from AE as well.
11-12-2013 | 09:13 AM
#6150
Hideeho
You need:
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
&
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
or you can spend more money buying a whole bunch of parts that won't handle as well or be as easy to drive on 99% of the tracks out there.
You need:
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
&
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
or you can spend more money buying a whole bunch of parts that won't handle as well or be as easy to drive on 99% of the tracks out there.