17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
10-09-2013 | 09:48 PM
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Posts: 576
From: Broomfield
I bit the bullet and I will soon be a Tekno SCT410 owner soon. Just waiting for Tower to ship my kit, then I'm GTG. Tower Hobbies member discount code+SCT410=Win.
How does the Tenshock SC411 compare to the HW Xerun 4 pole motors? I'll be using my old HW SCT esc.
I do have a Tekin Pro 4 4600 that I can use but not sure how the Pro4 will hold up when powering this 6 pounder. On my old Durango, it was a missile.
How does the Tenshock SC411 compare to the HW Xerun 4 pole motors? I'll be using my old HW SCT esc.
I do have a Tekin Pro 4 4600 that I can use but not sure how the Pro4 will hold up when powering this 6 pounder. On my old Durango, it was a missile.
10-09-2013 | 09:57 PM
That makes sense if they are a little longer the edges wouldn't be getting into the out drives as much. Got a project for tomorrow
10-09-2013 | 10:08 PM
Both are strong motors. The TS is a 550 can, the HW is like a 545 can, longer than a 540 but shorter than a 550.
The TS has a smoother bottom end and nice top end.
The HW has tree stump pulling bottom end and a little better top end.
Overall, the HW has more power according to my butt dyno
Any of the 4 pole motors out will have no problem with the Tekno. My Mugen conversion has about a 1/4 lb more weight and the tells run nearly identical. You may find that your temps are lower in this 1/8 based truck than they are in the scte or AE or Durango or whatever 1/10 based truck your coming from.
I have a hard time getting my motor temp over 140° (HW or TS, HW is about 10° less) with stupid ESC timing added in on 10+ minute practice runs.
10-09-2013 | 10:58 PM
Yeah, some run full droop, some limit droop. Read the Hudy setup guide to understand its affect. Generally more droop at an outdoor track than an indoor track.
If your going to setup your truck and follow a setup sheet from Tekno's website, the measurement is from the center of the lower shock mount screw to the center of the upper shock mount post.
So when it says 119mm of droop in the rear, that's 119mm eye to eye on the shock.
I do think shock location on the tower and maybe the arm will affect and throw off that measurement if you are not using the same mounting locations but trying to use the same droop measurement so if your going to follow someone's droop recommendation, you need to use their shock mount locations.
Would probably be best to measure droop the traditional way but I guess that may require people to use a setup board and other tools that come at a cost. So eye to eye you only need calipers which most everyone has and harbor freight has for a couple bucks.
If your going to setup your truck and follow a setup sheet from Tekno's website, the measurement is from the center of the lower shock mount screw to the center of the upper shock mount post.
So when it says 119mm of droop in the rear, that's 119mm eye to eye on the shock.
I do think shock location on the tower and maybe the arm will affect and throw off that measurement if you are not using the same mounting locations but trying to use the same droop measurement so if your going to follow someone's droop recommendation, you need to use their shock mount locations.
Would probably be best to measure droop the traditional way but I guess that may require people to use a setup board and other tools that come at a cost. So eye to eye you only need calipers which most everyone has and harbor freight has for a couple bucks.
10-10-2013 | 12:13 AM
Instead of buying a new bone, replace the pins. I think the Mugen pins are the same size, I have some but haven't tried it yet as their not worn.
Done it a ton of times on my Mugen, you just get a small socket and put it on one side of the bone and put it in a vice. Turn the vice down and the pin will push out till you get it flush with the bone.
Now turn the vice back out and put the new pin on the old pin that's flush with the socket still in place and crank down again. The new pin will push the old pin the rest of the way out and you have a fresh pin ready to go
Hope I explained that ok
Done it a ton of times on my Mugen, you just get a small socket and put it on one side of the bone and put it in a vice. Turn the vice down and the pin will push out till you get it flush with the bone.
Now turn the vice back out and put the new pin on the old pin that's flush with the socket still in place and crank down again. The new pin will push the old pin the rest of the way out and you have a fresh pin ready to go
Hope I explained that ok
Thanks!
10-10-2013 | 12:14 AM
Thanks sramos! I'll have to pick some mugen pins...another order to A Main!
10-10-2013 | 05:14 AM
Yeah, some run full droop, some limit droop. Read the Hudy setup guide to understand its affect. Generally more droop at an outdoor track than an indoor track.
If your going to setup your truck and follow a setup sheet from Tekno's website, the measurement is from the center of the lower shock mount screw to the center of the upper shock mount post.
So when it says 119mm of droop in the rear, that's 119mm eye to eye on the shock.
I do think shock location on the tower and maybe the arm will affect and throw off that measurement if you are not using the same mounting locations but trying to use the same droop measurement so if your going to follow someone's droop recommendation, you need to use their shock mount locations.
Would probably be best to measure droop the traditional way but I guess that may require people to use a setup board and other tools that come at a cost. So eye to eye you only need calipers which most everyone has and harbor freight has for a couple bucks.
If your going to setup your truck and follow a setup sheet from Tekno's website, the measurement is from the center of the lower shock mount screw to the center of the upper shock mount post.
So when it says 119mm of droop in the rear, that's 119mm eye to eye on the shock.
I do think shock location on the tower and maybe the arm will affect and throw off that measurement if you are not using the same mounting locations but trying to use the same droop measurement so if your going to follow someone's droop recommendation, you need to use their shock mount locations.
Would probably be best to measure droop the traditional way but I guess that may require people to use a setup board and other tools that come at a cost. So eye to eye you only need calipers which most everyone has and harbor freight has for a couple bucks.
10-10-2013 | 06:24 AM
Ahhh... I may swap out my pins before they are due. What the heck, I have about 10 in my box so if that extends the life of the outdrive, I'm in!
That makes sense if they are a little longer the edges wouldn't be getting into the out drives as much. Got a project for tomorrow
That makes sense if they are a little longer the edges wouldn't be getting into the out drives as much. Got a project for tomorrow
1/4" thick pc of aluminum with two 9/64" hole drilled all the way thru.
I made two holes for the Tekno rear drive line since it wears the most.
Set the drive line in the holes and tap the pins down with a small hammer.
Then I use a drift punch to knock them all the way out. Tap the new 3mm x 12.8 Mugen pins back in and your done. You can do this at the track if need be...
10-10-2013 | 06:26 AM
I bit the bullet and I will soon be a Tekno SCT410 owner soon. Just waiting for Tower to ship my kit, then I'm GTG. Tower Hobbies member discount code+SCT410=Win.
How does the Tenshock SC411 compare to the HW Xerun 4 pole motors? I'll be using my old HW SCT esc.
I do have a Tekin Pro 4 4600 that I can use but not sure how the Pro4 will hold up when powering this 6 pounder. On my old Durango, it was a missile.
How does the Tenshock SC411 compare to the HW Xerun 4 pole motors? I'll be using my old HW SCT esc.
I do have a Tekin Pro 4 4600 that I can use but not sure how the Pro4 will hold up when powering this 6 pounder. On my old Durango, it was a missile.
10-10-2013 | 07:46 AM
This is the simple tool I made for removing and replacing the drive pins..
1/4" thick pc of aluminum with two 9/64" hole drilled all the way thru.
I made two holes for the Tekno rear drive line since it wears the most.
Set the drive line in the holes and tap the pins down with a small hammer.
Then I use a drift punch to knock them all the way out. Tap the new 3mm x 12.8 Mugen pins back in and your done. You can do this at the track if need be...
1/4" thick pc of aluminum with two 9/64" hole drilled all the way thru.
I made two holes for the Tekno rear drive line since it wears the most.
Set the drive line in the holes and tap the pins down with a small hammer.
Then I use a drift punch to knock them all the way out. Tap the new 3mm x 12.8 Mugen pins back in and your done. You can do this at the track if need be...
10-10-2013 | 08:57 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Yeah, some run full droop, some limit droop. Read the Hudy setup guide to understand its affect. Generally more droop at an outdoor track than an indoor track.
If your going to setup your truck and follow a setup sheet from Tekno's website, the measurement is from the center of the lower shock mount screw to the center of the upper shock mount post.
So when it says 119mm of droop in the rear, that's 119mm eye to eye on the shock.
I do think shock location on the tower and maybe the arm will affect and throw off that measurement if you are not using the same mounting locations but trying to use the same droop measurement so if your going to follow someone's droop recommendation, you need to use their shock mount locations.
Would probably be best to measure droop the traditional way but I guess that may require people to use a setup board and other tools that come at a cost. So eye to eye you only need calipers which most everyone has and harbor freight has for a couple bucks.
If your going to setup your truck and follow a setup sheet from Tekno's website, the measurement is from the center of the lower shock mount screw to the center of the upper shock mount post.
So when it says 119mm of droop in the rear, that's 119mm eye to eye on the shock.
I do think shock location on the tower and maybe the arm will affect and throw off that measurement if you are not using the same mounting locations but trying to use the same droop measurement so if your going to follow someone's droop recommendation, you need to use their shock mount locations.
Would probably be best to measure droop the traditional way but I guess that may require people to use a setup board and other tools that come at a cost. So eye to eye you only need calipers which most everyone has and harbor freight has for a couple bucks.
I don't have the droop tools so I basically use the measurement listed then tweak the screws by feel.
