Tekno SCT410 Thread
I agree and would love to see some more 1/10 rides i am trying my best to hold out on getting into 1/8 just dont want to start all over and have to get new everything, if money was not an object i guess no problem but thats not the case.
Also when was the last time anyone has "broke" anything on their sct410? Me personally would be never, in almost 3 months of running 2x a week aand a race night. Lucky tuning really affects the way it drives and there is lots of stuff to tune.
Also when was the last time anyone has "broke" anything on their sct410? Me personally would be never, in almost 3 months of running 2x a week aand a race night. Lucky tuning really affects the way it drives and there is lots of stuff to tune.
I agree and would love to see some more 1/10 rides i am trying my best to hold out on getting into 1/8 just dont want to start all over and have to get new everything, if money was not an object i guess no problem but thats not the case.
Also when was the last time anyone has "broke" anything on their sct410? Me personally would be never, in almost 3 months of running 2x a week aand a race night. Lucky tuning really affects the way it drives and there is lots of stuff to tune.
Also when was the last time anyone has "broke" anything on their sct410? Me personally would be never, in almost 3 months of running 2x a week aand a race night. Lucky tuning really affects the way it drives and there is lots of stuff to tune.
yes I did, but they are not the correct ones. I just wanted to see if they made a difference. I should have stated that. I think I know the problem though. I almost hate to say it too. Lol. I think I put the black o rings limiters that go on the shock shaft in instead of the plastic spacers. I'll check it out tonight after work. I was working on a bunch of cars and had parts everywhere. Think I found the spacers. doh!
With all of the piston talk and trying to compare pack I think this video is appropriate. It would be a good way to see how the pistons stack up against each other vs just trying to tell by feel while running them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aU_0wvD2m7E
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aU_0wvD2m7E
To continue the piston theme, did you guys catch Fred's thoughts on pack. Interesting, also how my B44 is set up... 1.6 front 1.7 rear.
Didn't want to quote it, the post is 1/2 a page.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12617585-post1287.html
Didn't want to quote it, the post is 1/2 a page.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12617585-post1287.html
TSR should have orings for Tekno soon, best shock orings I've run in any car they make them for.
They usually have a club orings that's a little less stiction than stock but zero leakage. Then they have a pro orings for those that don't mind a little more maintenance and a little leakage for the least possible stiction in your shock.
I go with the club orings just cuz I don't earn a living at this but those that are super into it may want to check out the pro orings.
They usually have a club orings that's a little less stiction than stock but zero leakage. Then they have a pro orings for those that don't mind a little more maintenance and a little leakage for the least possible stiction in your shock.
I go with the club orings just cuz I don't earn a living at this but those that are super into it may want to check out the pro orings.
Quick spring question.when I bought my truck it had came with a set of front white Durango springs td330414 and rear black td 330194 springs will these work better then the stock springs,or should I order up the green springs from tekno?
The Durango grey/white spring is very close to the Tekno green by the stated spring rate, that's what I am running.
The Durango black rear is quite a bit stiffer than the Tekno green. You may or may not like how it performs but there are a number of people that seem to like the Kyosho yellow and Tekno red and those are in the ballpark of the Durango blacks... by the spring rate number.
Spring rates are are not an exact science, different companies use different machines to measure and also the same rate spring may have different wire thickness and coil count so it will feel different even though the two companies state the same spring rate. Just saying.
This is a good reference to know where your at vs other springs available
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12467712-post13781.html
The Durango black rear is quite a bit stiffer than the Tekno green. You may or may not like how it performs but there are a number of people that seem to like the Kyosho yellow and Tekno red and those are in the ballpark of the Durango blacks... by the spring rate number.
Spring rates are are not an exact science, different companies use different machines to measure and also the same rate spring may have different wire thickness and coil count so it will feel different even though the two companies state the same spring rate. Just saying.
This is a good reference to know where your at vs other springs available
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12467712-post13781.html
I personally have not broken anything on my sct410. I've loaned out my spare plastic hexes to team drivers that had spun thiers. I don't have any spare parts right now and I've had mine for at least 7 months. The only thing I need to replace is the tiny rear dog bone as the pins have worn about half way through. I HOPE I DON'T START BREAKING NOW! (KNOCK ON WOOD)
The Durango grey/white spring is very close to the Tekno green by the stated spring rate, that's what I am running.
The Durango black rear is quite a bit stiffer than the Tekno green. You may or may not like how it performs but there are a number of people that seem to like the Kyosho yellow and Tekno red and those are in the ballpark of the Durango blacks... by the spring rate number.
Spring rates are are not an exact science, different companies use different machines to measure and also the same rate spring may have different wire thickness and coil count so it will feel different even though the two companies state the same spring rate. Just saying.
This is a good reference to know where your at vs other springs available
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12467712-post13781.html
The Durango black rear is quite a bit stiffer than the Tekno green. You may or may not like how it performs but there are a number of people that seem to like the Kyosho yellow and Tekno red and those are in the ballpark of the Durango blacks... by the spring rate number.
Spring rates are are not an exact science, different companies use different machines to measure and also the same rate spring may have different wire thickness and coil count so it will feel different even though the two companies state the same spring rate. Just saying.
This is a good reference to know where your at vs other springs available
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12467712-post13781.html
I personally have not broken anything on my sct410. I've loaned out my spare plastic hexes to team drivers that had spun thiers. I don't have any spare parts right now and I've had mine for at least 7 months. The only thing I need to replace is the tiny rear dog bone as the pins have worn about half way through. I HOPE I DON'T START BREAKING NOW! (KNOCK ON WOOD) 

Done it a ton of times on my Mugen, you just get a small socket and put it on one side of the bone and put it in a vice. Turn the vice down and the pin will push out till you get it flush with the bone.
Now turn the vice back out and put the new pin on the old pin that's flush with the socket still in place and crank down again. The new pin will push the old pin the rest of the way out and you have a fresh pin ready to go

Hope I explained that ok
I bit the bullet and I will soon be a Tekno SCT410 owner soon. Just waiting for Tower to ship my kit, then I'm GTG. Tower Hobbies member discount code+SCT410=Win.
How does the Tenshock SC411 compare to the HW Xerun 4 pole motors? I'll be using my old HW SCT esc.
I do have a Tekin Pro 4 4600 that I can use but not sure how the Pro4 will hold up when powering this 6 pounder. On my old Durango, it was a missile.
How does the Tenshock SC411 compare to the HW Xerun 4 pole motors? I'll be using my old HW SCT esc.
I do have a Tekin Pro 4 4600 that I can use but not sure how the Pro4 will hold up when powering this 6 pounder. On my old Durango, it was a missile.
Instead of buying a new bone, replace the pins. I think the Mugen pins are the same size, I have some but haven't tried it yet as their not worn.
Done it a ton of times on my Mugen, you just get a small socket and put it on one side of the bone and put it in a vice. Turn the vice down and the pin will push out till you get it flush with the bone.
Now turn the vice back out and put the new pin on the old pin that's flush with the socket still in place and crank down again. The new pin will push the old pin the rest of the way out and you have a fresh pin ready to go
Hope I explained that ok
Done it a ton of times on my Mugen, you just get a small socket and put it on one side of the bone and put it in a vice. Turn the vice down and the pin will push out till you get it flush with the bone.
Now turn the vice back out and put the new pin on the old pin that's flush with the socket still in place and crank down again. The new pin will push the old pin the rest of the way out and you have a fresh pin ready to go

Hope I explained that ok




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