There's no burs or flash on the pistons or spacers. I originally built the truck back in February. They werefine when I built it. I've only changed the fluid twice since then. If I back the lower collar off, it does move a little more freely. When I originally built the shocks, I had the collars tightened all the way down and they worked fine. Now, not so much. How loose should they be?

+1 I like the vibe of this thread. If I even suggest an alternative setup or different solution to a problem in the b4 thread I get nasty PM's in my inbox.

Shaft(s) could be slightly bent. Not enough to see but if you pull the worst offending one apart and take the piston off, roll it on a glass table or other flat surface and see if it is still true.

Really? Lame.
If it can't be said publicly, it shouldn't be said.

Or replace the orings. They swell after some time and bind the shaft.

I'll get some on order tomorrow. I'm thinking that's what it is. Shafts are straight. Got to be the orings. Thanks guys.

Thought you said u already put new orings in?

Has anyone run the Kyosho vs Tekno cnc pistons back to back?

1.3 x 8's on the bench, the Kyosho's seem to have a bunch less pack and slightly faster rebound...just something I found curious...

I did put a small amount of black grease on the threads when I started the turnbuckles into the rod ends. Does chapstick work better for this than the black grease that comes with the kit?

Thanks guys! I appreciate the advice!

Ok, I have another noob question...

I've got my body trimmed and I was looking at where I should ream my body mount holes.

Does the front of the body sit over the front bumper by a tiny bit? I have a J Concepts Hi-Flo Chevy 1500 body. To get positioned correctly on the chassis, it has to sit over the front bumper by 1/8" or so.
I'm assuming it does, but I want to double check before I ream some body mount holes.

Thanks!!!

quick question: what size screws did you guys use for the mud guards?

thanks

I used the holes furthest forward to get the body just behind the bumper but that doesn't line the wheel wells up very well. I cut the rear wells to line up with the wheels.

With the bumper lengths on this truck you have a choice of the front bumper sticking out far enough to protect the front of the body but putting the rear of the body in harms way or you can mount it forward and line up the wheel wells, protect the rear of the body but then the front of the body takes a beating.

You can't have your cake & eat it too with this trucks bumper lengths. I hit up t-bone who makes a front bumper for this truck but they modeled it after the stock one. I pointed out that if they extended the bumper a little it would be perfect. The rear is correct length with the wheels centered in the wheel well, its just the front that needs to stretch a little.

They wanted my truck to fab one up but I haven't had my fun with it yet. Maybe in a couple months I can let it got for a few weeks for them to mold another one.

Here's where mine ended up using the furthest forward hole in the front.

Yes it hangs over the bumper. The very end of the body should line up with the very end of the rear bumper too, other than the slash most racing SC bumpers go under body but almost touching on inside

Yep, I see exactly what you're talking (typing) about!!!

Once again, thanks for your help guys!

**This thread is the absolute best thread on RCTech! I've asked some of the worst noob questions and I have not had one negative thing said to me!! Everyone has been very helpful!**

Does anyone know what the 3 holes on the bottom of the Tekin RX8 Gen2 are for?

That's the filler hole for the unicorn blood that runs the gen 2's lol.
Good question though could be mounting holes I guess