2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
09-29-2013 | 08:48 AM
#9318
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 39
From: Port Saint Lucie
super lite
09-29-2013 | 02:21 PM
#9319
Thanks for the support guys!
For loose conditions, we recommend putting in the steering stops to limit steering. Recently we've been putting 3 or 4 washers (TKR1221) behind the button head screw to accurately set the steering stops left/right. This is on Step I-1. Make sure to reset your EPA after doing this. This has the same effect as reducing your dual rate, but positively limiting travel and reducing wheel wobble under power.
Another thing that seems to help in all conditions is flipping the outside steering pivot ball so that it is in the down position. We are doing this to create a bump-in condition. Bump-in really smooths out the car. You will need to increase toe-out after you do this.
We've been running A LOT of bump-in lately and the results are pretty remarkable. You can get more bump-in by lowering the pivot ball as much as possible on the steering block (put washers on top), and/or raising the pivot ball on the Ackermann plate (put washers on bottom).
Another setting we've changed has been going to the inside shock mounting hole on the front arm. This creates more steering without upsetting the rest of the car.
Lastly, dial in some more front droop. The car will land better, handle bumps better, and be more stable on-power in loose conditions.
We are testing a couple other things and we will post up a new setup sheet in a week or so. Stay tuned.
For loose conditions, we recommend putting in the steering stops to limit steering. Recently we've been putting 3 or 4 washers (TKR1221) behind the button head screw to accurately set the steering stops left/right. This is on Step I-1. Make sure to reset your EPA after doing this. This has the same effect as reducing your dual rate, but positively limiting travel and reducing wheel wobble under power.
Another thing that seems to help in all conditions is flipping the outside steering pivot ball so that it is in the down position. We are doing this to create a bump-in condition. Bump-in really smooths out the car. You will need to increase toe-out after you do this.
We've been running A LOT of bump-in lately and the results are pretty remarkable. You can get more bump-in by lowering the pivot ball as much as possible on the steering block (put washers on top), and/or raising the pivot ball on the Ackermann plate (put washers on bottom).
Another setting we've changed has been going to the inside shock mounting hole on the front arm. This creates more steering without upsetting the rest of the car.
Lastly, dial in some more front droop. The car will land better, handle bumps better, and be more stable on-power in loose conditions.
We are testing a couple other things and we will post up a new setup sheet in a week or so. Stay tuned.
I tried them all this weekend changed all them at once and it made a massive improvements the buggy was so good I did PB lap times and PB race times.
Very very happy with the changes give them a try for sure.
Thanks for the tips Danny
09-29-2013 | 02:24 PM
#9320
Tech Apprentice
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 99
From: Noblesville, IN
I have an SL. It drives very well. With a 2s pack it is well ballanced, the steering is very precise, it flys flat and is very easy to drive hard. The tracks I drive on are too big for the 2s/SC motor combo and I end up running them to their limits and am still down on power. I put a 4s pack in it just to see what would happen. Got the power but heated up quickly. The extra weight of the 4s pack changed the feel of the car quite a bit, but I didn't get to drive it long enough to really tell exactly how. Since I looks like I'm gonna have to use 4s batteries and 1/8 motors I'm thinking I might be better off getting a EB48.2 for outdoors and save the SL for smaller indoor tracks. Would I be better off getting a EB48.2 for 4s batteries?
09-29-2013 | 06:13 PM
#9321
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,595
From: Covington, La.
after being away from 8th scale racing for more than 2 years i just put in a order for a eb48.2 from tower hobbies. I could not pass it up with the discount codes and free shipping. I have always had my eye on the buggy since it came out and now am glad i will be able to give it a try.
I have not read threw the thread yet but plan to as i wait for it to arrive this week.
I have not read threw the thread yet but plan to as i wait for it to arrive this week.
09-29-2013 | 07:16 PM
#9322
Ok for anyone that has not done these mods do you self a favour and make the changes
I tried them all this weekend changed all them at once and it made a massive improvements the buggy was so good I did PB lap times and PB race times.
Very very happy with the changes give them a try for sure.
Thanks for the tips Danny
I tried them all this weekend changed all them at once and it made a massive improvements the buggy was so good I did PB lap times and PB race times.
Very very happy with the changes give them a try for sure.
Thanks for the tips Danny
I have an SL. It drives very well. With a 2s pack it is well ballanced, the steering is very precise, it flys flat and is very easy to drive hard. The tracks I drive on are too big for the 2s/SC motor combo and I end up running them to their limits and am still down on power. I put a 4s pack in it just to see what would happen. Got the power but heated up quickly. The extra weight of the 4s pack changed the feel of the car quite a bit, but I didn't get to drive it long enough to really tell exactly how. Since I looks like I'm gonna have to use 4s batteries and 1/8 motors I'm thinking I might be better off getting a EB48.2 for outdoors and save the SL for smaller indoor tracks. Would I be better off getting a EB48.2 for 4s batteries?
09-30-2013 | 05:14 AM
#9323
I finally got to run the .2 this past weekend and WOW, the buggy just flat out performs. I raced the the Outback track where the Mugen Challenge was held and last time there I was driving a Tekno D8 and was turning 33sec lap times. This past weekend with the .2 I was able to hit a few 29s and consistenly turn 30-31s no problem.
Running Cpt_Redbeard setup, but had to drop to lower oil weights since the buggy feels so light with the 4s I'm using. TWith the listed oils from the setup it just felt a little too stiff.
Running Cpt_Redbeard setup, but had to drop to lower oil weights since the buggy feels so light with the 4s I'm using. TWith the listed oils from the setup it just felt a little too stiff.
09-30-2013 | 06:34 AM
#9324
I finally got to run the .2 this past weekend and WOW, the buggy just flat out performs. I raced the the Outback track where the Mugen Challenge was held and last time there I was driving a Tekno D8 and was turning 33sec lap times. This past weekend with the .2 I was able to hit a few 29s and consistenly turn 30-31s no problem.
Running Cpt_Redbeard setup, but had to drop to lower oil weights since the buggy feels so light with the 4s I'm using. TWith the listed oils from the setup it just felt a little too stiff.
Running Cpt_Redbeard setup, but had to drop to lower oil weights since the buggy feels so light with the 4s I'm using. TWith the listed oils from the setup it just felt a little too stiff.
Ya that setup was from the diabetes race when it was in the 90's. I'm thinking about dropping it 2.5wt. How far down did you go?
09-30-2013 | 07:06 AM
#9325
I went with 37.5 front and 30wt rear and using 8x1.3 pistons.
I'm almost thinking 27.5 for rear, cause I'm using a smaller 4s 4000 lipo (its skinny and light weight) so maybe lighter rear oil and lighter rear swaybar. A couple times on power the rear would wash out a little.
With indoor season no real need for the big, heavy 4s lipos like outdoors, although will probably pick one up anyways and might have to change oil weights down road.
Racing went good until I broke an A-arm... lol Took off from triple and got crossed up in air and couldn't straighten out in time and BAM!!! right into the landing. The arm is actually fine, it broke at the hinge pin part of the arm
I'm almost thinking 27.5 for rear, cause I'm using a smaller 4s 4000 lipo (its skinny and light weight) so maybe lighter rear oil and lighter rear swaybar. A couple times on power the rear would wash out a little.
With indoor season no real need for the big, heavy 4s lipos like outdoors, although will probably pick one up anyways and might have to change oil weights down road.
Racing went good until I broke an A-arm... lol Took off from triple and got crossed up in air and couldn't straighten out in time and BAM!!! right into the landing. The arm is actually fine, it broke at the hinge pin part of the arm
09-30-2013 | 09:32 AM
#9327
Ok for anyone that has not done these mods do you self a favour and make the changes
I tried them all this weekend changed all them at once and it made a massive improvements the buggy was so good I did PB lap times and PB race times.
Very very happy with the changes give them a try for sure.
Thanks for the tips Danny
I tried them all this weekend changed all them at once and it made a massive improvements the buggy was so good I did PB lap times and PB race times.
Very very happy with the changes give them a try for sure.
Thanks for the tips Danny
Only problem was that when I moved the shocks to the inner hole on the arm the screws on the steering block holding on the pivot ball you just flipped over started scraping the arm and would get hung up, I didn't spend much time trying to find a fix but anyone else encounter this?
09-30-2013 | 10:04 AM
#9328
Agreed, love the way it handles now, much more predictable, the bump screws really help stop the wobble.
Only problem was that when I moved the shocks to the inner hole on the arm the screws on the steering block holding on the pivot ball you just flipped over started scraping the arm and would get hung up, I didn't spend much time trying to find a fix but anyone else encounter this?
Only problem was that when I moved the shocks to the inner hole on the arm the screws on the steering block holding on the pivot ball you just flipped over started scraping the arm and would get hung up, I didn't spend much time trying to find a fix but anyone else encounter this?
09-30-2013 | 12:59 PM
#9329
Tech Addict
iTrader: (71)
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 663
Agreed, love the way it handles now, much more predictable, the bump screws really help stop the wobble.
Only problem was that when I moved the shocks to the inner hole on the arm the screws on the steering block holding on the pivot ball you just flipped over started scraping the arm and would get hung up, I didn't spend much time trying to find a fix but anyone else encounter this?
Only problem was that when I moved the shocks to the inner hole on the arm the screws on the steering block holding on the pivot ball you just flipped over started scraping the arm and would get hung up, I didn't spend much time trying to find a fix but anyone else encounter this?
What position are you running front shock on the tower, when using the innermost arm mount?
09-30-2013 | 02:49 PM
#9330
I was using hole #3 which is 2nd in from the outside but I did not end up using the innermost hole on the arm because the screw on the steering block that holds the pivot ball came down to far and snagged on the arm. I could probably use a spacer but even the nylon bold scrapes a bit even without the screw sticking through.