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Old 09-29-2013 | 05:25 PM
  #15121  
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Ok ya I'm also gonna pick up that Novak heat sink that think looks like it could easily take out 20*
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Old 09-29-2013 | 05:47 PM
  #15122  
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Originally Posted by RokleM
Same. Stock 10x1.2 pistons even with some of the stiffest rear springs and I was nose diving like crazy. Just by going to 8x1.3, I've been able to go down 3-4 spring stiffness on the back with still no sign of nose diving.
+1, the 8x1.3 correct the nose diving for me too.
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Old 09-29-2013 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mydudrevo
Ok ya I'm also gonna pick up that Novak heat sink that think looks like it could easily take out 20*
I forgot to mention that you have to cut it to fit. It's pretty thick so I had to use my angle grinder to cut a notch for the wires, and I also had to cut about an inch off of one side so wouldn't hit the center brace. It's a pretty tight fit but I got it to work, after I modified it I can slip off the motor with no problem.
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Old 09-29-2013 | 06:55 PM
  #15124  
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Ya it's no big deal I have plenty of tools to do the job how much difference in temp did you see with that heat sink? That one makes others look like crap I really like the size of that one
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Old 09-29-2013 | 07:09 PM
  #15125  
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Originally Posted by mo
I was trying to take steering out of the truck so I added front camber, -3, maxed out the front kickup and moved the front inner camber link to the upper inside position. I also raised the ride height. Was trying to run the truck low, at around 25-26mm but wasn't working and didn't land the big jumps well. I raised it to 29mm w/o the body and it did everything better. I think with the low ride height it was bottoming out the shock, causing it to roll over. Maybe with some stiffer springs I could run it lower. I'm currently running Durango buggy front red springs and losi 15mm green springs in the rear. Running the stock pistions with 30wt front and 25wt rear.
If its too aggressive you can move to the front Ackerman position and sweep your arms back. I switched to indoors this weekend and those two changes really helped settle the steering down on the high bite without loosing the ability to turn under others.
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Old 09-29-2013 | 07:13 PM
  #15126  
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Originally Posted by mydudrevo
Ya it's no big deal I have plenty of tools to do the job how much difference in temp did you see with that heat sink? That one makes others look like crap I really like the size of that one
Alright cool, I saw my motor temps drop by at least 15 degrees. It really helps keep things cooler.
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Old 09-29-2013 | 09:03 PM
  #15127  
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hey guys I am a n00b with this truck. A few of my bleeder screw o-rings busted and I did not see any replacement parts for them on any website. What are you guys using for replacements? Also what shock springs are you guys using for nose drives?
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Old 09-29-2013 | 10:00 PM
  #15128  
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I'm running tekno greens front and rear and it's working perfectly
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Old 09-29-2013 | 10:13 PM
  #15129  
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Originally Posted by chrisnitro
hey guys I am a n00b with this truck. A few of my bleeder screw o-rings busted and I did not see any replacement parts for them on any website. What are you guys using for replacements? Also what shock springs are you guys using for nose drives?
Tkr5125 should work for ya.
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Old 09-30-2013 | 06:26 AM
  #15130  
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Thanks guys.. What are you running in the shocks?
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Old 09-30-2013 | 06:32 AM
  #15131  
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Originally Posted by chrisnitro
Thanks guys.. What are you running in the shocks?
Front: Tekno CNC 8x1.4, 40wt AE oil, 1/4in rebound, Tekno yellow spring

Rear: Tekno CNC 8x1.4, 35wt AE oil, 1/4in rebound, Tenko red spring

I have been working on a new setup for the truck since my old one was good, but my buggy prooved its wasn't good enough. I did a bit of testing down in Ramos land and he helped me out quite a bit. I am waiting on some parts before I tear into cleaning and rebuilding, when they get here i'll fill out a setup sheet and share away.

Last edited by cpt_RedBeard; 09-30-2013 at 06:42 AM.
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Old 09-30-2013 | 08:53 AM
  #15132  
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What are the rear toe option's with the stock kit? 1 Out, 0, 1 In? I know they make the +1.5mm plate which says it does 3,4&5, so I am curious if that then means the stock kit is 1.5, 2.5 & 3.5? My curiosity stems from all the setup sheets that indicate 4.5* toe and I don't see how to set that with either of these plates.
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Old 09-30-2013 | 09:00 AM
  #15133  
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first post has a breakdown of toe in settings, its a combo with the rear hub carriers that are +1 or -1 depending on how you orient them.
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Old 09-30-2013 | 10:08 AM
  #15134  
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Default Setup changes during races?

Hey guys I have been racing for about a year now and getting better pretty quickly since changing to Tekno. I feel like I have a good understanding of setup and what different changes do to the truck. I'm looking to take it to the next level and want to get better at making setup changes after qualifiers and before the main's. My question to all of you seasoned veterans, what are the main things you concentrate on when making adjustments after a qualifier if needed. I'm trying to get a feel for what I should be looking for and what I should be focused on with setup changes. I understand tires is one of them, and that's something I do now but looking for other tips on what I should be paying attention to during the race that I may need to address after a qualifier. Hope this makes sense. I see racers making changes all the time and getting better as the day goes on, so I feel like I'm missing something other than tires.

Also, how much do you change setup between outdoor and indoor? Tires I know are usually one place but what other things do you change, shock mounting location, shock oil, ride height, etc.
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Old 09-30-2013 | 10:20 AM
  #15135  
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To confirm, for vented shock build you run bladders, drill the bleed hole at the top but don't screw in the bleeder screws?

If that is true when would you drill the hole in the side of the cap?
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