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Old 09-28-2013 | 10:50 AM
  #9811  
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the lower hole is no washers and the upper is the 2mm washer.

its the front shock tower. why wing and body mounts?

there is just enough space for the shocks.
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Old 09-28-2013 | 10:54 AM
  #9812  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
if you made a good one for the t4 sc10 with a 4th hole in the rear, you could probably sell a few.
+1!
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Old 09-28-2013 | 10:58 AM
  #9813  
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Ya your tower looks nice but too compliacted and what are you making it out of if aluminum id give up on it now bc thats way too much weight a) up that high b) up front ontop of the wheels c) mid air its going to suck if you make it out of carbon fiber id consider it make it similar to ae with the camber link/mounting system and the fourth hole is def a nice touch i was considering moding my tower with that
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Old 09-28-2013 | 10:59 AM
  #9814  
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1. i dont have any sc10 or t4 for the design.
2. its not cheap to make so there isn't really a space for profit.
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Old 09-28-2013 | 11:07 AM
  #9815  
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Set Up Tip


Those of you who are using the shelf should stick with the current rear camber link location ...

If you are running the ESC in the center & inside the battery tray ?

Try moving to the outer stud hole on the rear chassis U brace for improved rotation in the turns ...
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Old 09-28-2013 | 11:13 AM
  #9816  
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Originally Posted by rc car guy
Ya your tower looks nice but too compliacted and what are you making it out of if aluminum id give up on it now bc thats way too much weight a) up that high b) up front ontop of the wheels c) mid air its going to suck if you make it out of carbon fiber id consider it make it similar to ae with the camber link/mounting system and the fourth hole is def a nice touch i was considering moding my tower with that
i wrote its made in 3D printing from fiber glass reinforced nylon.

the way the ballstud is in the stock tower is ugly.
i cant even tell the difference between different ballstud holes so its not that critical. and im just trying to customize my buggy.
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Old 09-28-2013 | 11:44 AM
  #9817  
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oh, and my part is 5g lighter then the stock one. (still dont have the part, its by solidworks calculation)
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Old 09-28-2013 | 12:14 PM
  #9818  
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Hmm, i appreciate the work you have put into it (and i know how much because i design my own parts with the very same program everyday), but does it have any purpose except for the fourth hole? I would also like to know if it is durable enough because i don't know how flexible 3d printed parts are.

I think if you wanted a new light, cheap and still durable design, the way to go might be a 3-layer-composit shocktower from thin aluminium sheet and molded reinforced plastic. You would have a thin aluminium sheet in the middle that can be laser-cut or stamped out for cheap and 2 layers of plastic reinforcement on both sides. Even without molded but 3d-printed parts that would make the tower very much stronger than a single-moulded/printed tower, cheaper and lighter than milled aluminium, cheaper and more diverse than carbon (without splintering!) and you could even finish your main when the plastics is already broken and still held together by the aluminium sheet in the middle.

Some racers at my track already reinforced their upper part of the tower with a very thin alu or steel sheet (0.5-1.5mm) and report a better durability. (i wouldn't build on that though as it is really hard to evaluate if a not-reinforced tower would've broken in the same crash)

Maybe i'll try to find someone who has a 3d printer and try that... i can laser a prototype alu part for that tower together with the batch of alu-parts i need for my midmotor-conversion
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Old 09-28-2013 | 12:28 PM
  #9819  
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its not the "typical" 3D printer. it uses a laser to melt nylon and glass fivers powder in layers to create the part. its not to make models like other 3D printers. its an industrial machine to make the final parts.
i believe it will hold up. ill update with pics and after run impressions.
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Old 09-28-2013 | 01:13 PM
  #9820  
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Originally Posted by ebay007
i wrote its made in 3D printing from fiber glass reinforced nylon.

the way the ballstud is in the stock tower is ugly.
i cant even tell the difference between different ballstud holes so its not that critical. and im just trying to customize my buggy.
If you cant tellcthe difference between the two locations on the tower than I would say there is something wtong with your car... but ya how much is it costing you to make one?
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Old 09-28-2013 | 01:55 PM
  #9821  
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Originally Posted by rc car guy
http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=708

just looked under ball cups and checked the pics out they are similar but its like a ballcup with a hole drilled in the end... i might just drill holes in mine haha
Used the new JC on rear of. B4 cento conversion. Worked good, was nice to check without popping cups.
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Old 09-28-2013 | 02:12 PM
  #9822  
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What nut drivers do i need for the b4.2??
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Old 09-28-2013 | 02:13 PM
  #9823  
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3/16,1/4 and 11/32
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Old 09-28-2013 | 02:42 PM
  #9824  
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Thanks poppa wildcat
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Old 09-28-2013 | 05:08 PM
  #9825  
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Why the heck did they use the Mid motor conversion to race at the Worlds? After all the wins with the standard rear motor why the @#$^ go with mid conversion. Very bad decision IMO.
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