Tekno SCT410 Thread
Unbelievable piece of shit. I would RMA it if I could.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 796
Hey guys, just purchased a new SCT410. Getting ready to start the build on it. I have a really dumb question...
Can I, or should I paint the air guards? I got the Tekno air guards which are clear. I didn't know if you guys were painting them or leaving them clear.
Sorry, I know it's a dumb question.. LOL!!!
Can I, or should I paint the air guards? I got the Tekno air guards which are clear. I didn't know if you guys were painting them or leaving them clear.
Sorry, I know it's a dumb question.. LOL!!!
Hey guys, just purchased a new SCT410. Getting ready to start the build on it. I have a really dumb question...
Can I, or should I paint the air guards? I got the Tekno air guards which are clear. I didn't know if you guys were painting them or leaving them clear.
Sorry, I know it's a dumb question.. LOL!!!
Can I, or should I paint the air guards? I got the Tekno air guards which are clear. I didn't know if you guys were painting them or leaving them clear.
Sorry, I know it's a dumb question.. LOL!!!
I do not think many of us use them as much as we use to. They are nice for keeping out some dirt but don't see any huge help with parachuting. Since mine became cracked, I never felt the need to replace them.
I have a question for all the Tekno drivers. I'm gonna be holding a colostomy bag for a few months so I can't race until next season possibly. I have a ton of Tekno SCT410 stuff and was thinking to sell now and get back into racing next year if possible. Should I sell as a whole or try to piece out. What do you think I should honestly ask as a package deal for:
1. Brand new Tekno SCT410 still in box, only opened to remove and use the rear shock tower on my other Tekno that was raced
2. Tekno SCT410 used for 1 season (10 races) in great shape. Has a few upgrades like lightened out drives on diffs and lightened center driveshaft. Plus a few spares like hubs, arms and rear spare driveshaft still in bags. Original stock center driveshaft also.
3. Hobbywing SCT ESC used this season only
4. Hobbywing 4000kv used for 1 day
5. Hobbywing 4700kv used for all of 1 race season (9 races) except 1 day I used the 4000.
6. Tekin 4600 bought new and only used at the Roar Nationals where I finished 10th in the B main so all of 1 hour on that motor.
7. Hitec 7940 High Voltage servo
8. 1 new mylaps (new version) bought and used only at Roar Nationals.
9. Plus about 4-5 SMC 7200and 8 nanotech 6500
There's probably a few more things I can't remember but what should I honestly ask for all that?
1. Brand new Tekno SCT410 still in box, only opened to remove and use the rear shock tower on my other Tekno that was raced
2. Tekno SCT410 used for 1 season (10 races) in great shape. Has a few upgrades like lightened out drives on diffs and lightened center driveshaft. Plus a few spares like hubs, arms and rear spare driveshaft still in bags. Original stock center driveshaft also.
3. Hobbywing SCT ESC used this season only
4. Hobbywing 4000kv used for 1 day
5. Hobbywing 4700kv used for all of 1 race season (9 races) except 1 day I used the 4000.
6. Tekin 4600 bought new and only used at the Roar Nationals where I finished 10th in the B main so all of 1 hour on that motor.
7. Hitec 7940 High Voltage servo
8. 1 new mylaps (new version) bought and used only at Roar Nationals.
9. Plus about 4-5 SMC 7200and 8 nanotech 6500
There's probably a few more things I can't remember but what should I honestly ask for all that?
Last edited by USMC STONE; 09-19-2013 at 12:26 PM. Reason: I can't spell
Even though some stuff is barely used and the truck is still a relatively new truck, you take a bath selling rc stuff. I would expect about a 50% discount from online prices for electronic stuff and a little better on the kits (especially the new kit).
If it were me and I didn't HAVE to have the cash and planned to get back into it a few months later or even a year later, I wouldn't sell. The kit will not be outdated a year from now. The electronics will still work as well then as they do now.
You may get a little under $1000 for all and have to spend a couple grand to replace it when you start back up.
If it were me and I didn't HAVE to have the cash and planned to get back into it a few months later or even a year later, I wouldn't sell. The kit will not be outdated a year from now. The electronics will still work as well then as they do now.
You may get a little under $1000 for all and have to spend a couple grand to replace it when you start back up.
Even though some stuff is barely used and the truck is still a relatively new truck, you take a bath selling rc stuff. I would expect about a 50% discount from online prices for electronic stuff and a little better on the kits (especially the new kit).
If it were me and I didn't HAVE to have the cash and planned to get back into it a few months later or even a year later, I wouldn't sell. The kit will not be outdated a year from now. The electronics will still work as well then as they do now.
You may get a little under $1000 for all and have to spend a couple grand to replace it when you start back up.
If it were me and I didn't HAVE to have the cash and planned to get back into it a few months later or even a year later, I wouldn't sell. The kit will not be outdated a year from now. The electronics will still work as well then as they do now.
You may get a little under $1000 for all and have to spend a couple grand to replace it when you start back up.
I tried the +3's with the +1 hexes, just to see what the fuss was about. I had to cut out a lot of the Losi high flow body as well to do this.
Even on the high traction track though, I went back to the +1 hexes and +0 wheels (which is what I ran in the prior posted video), as it handled slightly better and didn't seem to roll over any more...and fits in just about any body. It also had less tire wear due to less slide.
Even though some stuff is barely used and the truck is still a relatively new truck, you take a bath selling rc stuff. I would expect about a 50% discount from online prices for electronic stuff and a little better on the kits (especially the new kit).
If it were me and I didn't HAVE to have the cash and planned to get back into it a few months later or even a year later, I wouldn't sell. The kit will not be outdated a year from now. The electronics will still work as well then as they do now.
You may get a little under $1000 for all and have to spend a couple grand to replace it when you start back up.
If it were me and I didn't HAVE to have the cash and planned to get back into it a few months later or even a year later, I wouldn't sell. The kit will not be outdated a year from now. The electronics will still work as well then as they do now.
You may get a little under $1000 for all and have to spend a couple grand to replace it when you start back up.
That's what I was thinking or just take to my local track and set out on a race weekend. I'm getting lots of offers on individual parts so I think that may be the way to go. Package deal I will lose even more but I didn't mind if it meant I only went to post office 1 time! Thanks everyone
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 796
Ah hah!
I tried the +3's with the +1 hexes, just to see what the fuss was about. I had to cut out a lot of the Losi high flow body as well to do this.
Even on the high traction track though, I went back to the +1 hexes and +0 wheels (which is what I ran in the prior posted video), as it handled slightly better and didn't seem to roll over any more...and fits in just about any body. It also had less tire wear due to less slide.
I tried the +3's with the +1 hexes, just to see what the fuss was about. I had to cut out a lot of the Losi high flow body as well to do this.
Even on the high traction track though, I went back to the +1 hexes and +0 wheels (which is what I ran in the prior posted video), as it handled slightly better and didn't seem to roll over any more...and fits in just about any body. It also had less tire wear due to less slide.



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