Thanks.

Not so Trixter.

The avid plate can and will bend just as, if not easier than the stock. The Avid is a nice plate but it has considerably less material which makes it weaker than the stock plate. What the Avid offers over stock are cool looks and superior venting which aides in the way of cooling.

does anyone tested the avidrc motor centering plate ? does it effect the handling ?

any opinions on that new Jconcepts plate?

A plate is a plate, they all bend. Get the cheapest one.

Yeah, I just run the rtr one. I have bent them all, aside from the new JC one, because i dont have it. But I dont see a need to spend $20 on a motor plate.

Not so. Shotta. The cheap RTR Plates offer superior strength and rigidity. Plates that are heavily machined are better suited for intermediate, advanced and professional drivers who rarely have sensational wrecks. In capable hands none of the machined plates will warp or bend, though they can still strip out threads randomly as that has more variables potentially affecting it.

FYI, most companies who make aftermarket plates have excellent customer service and calling them up and explaining issues might land you replacement parts free of charge, saving you money.

yeah, but I rarely have a break or bend that I didnt earn. My avid plate didnt bend, but a couple of the holes stripped out. Since the release of the original b4, I have never stripped a hole in a motor plate, so I was a bit bummed.

Same thing happened to me and I e-mailed them and got a quick response (less than half hour). Spoke to Kurt and explained the issue and he sent me out a new one with a prepaid envelope to ship back the stripped one. Really one of the best and most painless CS experiences I've had in some time. From experience the failure stems from 3 things…

1. Lesser grade alloy
2. Plate is not made from Billet (Billet is much more dense and has more Ping to it)
3. Regular anodizing instead of stage III Anodizing which adds a touch of hardness

I ran the kit at the Clash in stock buggy and I felt a difference. Also put the car on the scales and left to right weight balance is a lot closer than before. Definitely helps the car feel more equal when making quick steering inputs.

The term "billet" is a pet peeve of mine.

"A billet is an intermediate step in metals processing lying between ingot and final shape. It has no place as a technical term for plate or bar stock." http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...tml#post715739

The process you're referring to is tempering. Untempered aluminum is soft and gummy.

I consider myself advanced (), and myself and others faster than I bend plates on occasion. It happens. Never stripped one, but having the buggy land flat on its ass is how it usually happens.

Does the longer chassis (I believe it's 8mm) handle better for 17.5 or the normal length one, I have the shorter one on my stock buggy, but the long chassis on my mod one..and the mod one seems to handle better than the stock one,neither the same setup...but I don't wanna buy the chassis if it will not make a dif!

Depends on what you're looking for out of your car. The longer chassis will calm things down, but some people prefer the more agile "short" car for 17.5.

Try it and see if you like it.