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Old 09-11-2013 | 07:30 PM
  #9331  
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Ok, for everyone wondering about droop, shock shaft length, and limitiers, here are my findings.

.030" limiters = .76mm

Front:
-bottom e-clip to eyelet threads = 32mm
-exposed shock shaft length with no limiters to eyelet threads = 22.25mm
-exposed shock shaft length with no limiters with shock eyelet screwed all the way in hand tight = 21.25mm

Rear:
-bottom e-clip to eyelet threads = 38.5mm
-exposed shock shaft length with no limiters to eyelet threads = 29mm
-exposed shock shaft length with no limiters with shock eyelet screwed all the way in hand tight = 27.75mm

On the eyelets I turned them pretty hard. They're definitely as far as they will go.
These measurements were on brand new in package big bore shocks.
These are my findings, take them with a grain of salt, miles my vary, etc.
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Old 09-11-2013 | 07:34 PM
  #9332  
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Originally Posted by Autocratic

On the eyelets I turned them pretty hard. They're definitely as far as they will go.

These are my findings, take them with a grain of salt, miles my vary, etc.
Just touching on that topic, I have noticed and other may have also noticed this as well. If you screw the shock end/eyelet in too far it will clamp the pivot ball in the eyelet and stop it from freely moving and in turn bind up the shock movment. If anyone has had the shock bottom screw come out or loosen off, this is usually cause my the pivot ball binding and as the shock moves it forces the screw loose.

I usually do the "wiggle test" to see if the shocks are pivoting on the shock eyelet ball.

Bit of useful or useless info for ya
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Old 09-11-2013 | 07:50 PM
  #9333  
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Originally Posted by kyle3333
I'm not sure if anyone on here has mentioned these, 9452K311 - Buna-n O-ring from McMaster Carr. They are basically the same as the factory O-rings for the bleeder screw as far as the dimensions, but they are black and definitely hold up better. They don't "balloon" out as easily when you are tightening the bleeder screw and they seem to last a lot longer.

I have run 4 different cars with and without O-rings and I have never had a leak. I prefer to run O-rings because I just want to be on the safe side I guess. But also because part of me thinks that over time the bleeder screw may start to wear and that could potentially create a situation for shock fluid to leak out if there isn't something else there to help the seal. This of course is just a thought. Like I said, I have run big bores without the O-rings and they were fine. But they were also pretty new.

Here is the McMaster Carr O-ring part# again 9452K311 - Buna-n O-ring.
Replying to an old post here. Been looking for a good replacement for stock orings for just this reason, they're too squishy. Anyone try these with good success?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3470/=ogwhcj
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Old 09-11-2013 | 07:59 PM
  #9334  
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Those look a little excessive. Those type of o-rings are used a lot in automotive applications, and their hardness is probably going to be too much for RC situations.

I love the Reflex Racing o-rings. Super smooth and seal really well.

$3 for 8 o-rings

http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-3mm-...cs_p_1208.html
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Old 09-11-2013 | 08:00 PM
  #9335  
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lol, so wtf does the 21mm on the package mean for the fronts? it cant be the exposed amount, thats just to complicated, lol.
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Old 09-11-2013 | 08:01 PM
  #9336  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
lol, so wtf does the 21mm on the package mean for the fronts? it cant be the exposed amount, thats just to complicated, lol.
lol...well my measurements are close, so I guess that's what it's supposed to be with no limiters.
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Old 09-11-2013 | 08:20 PM
  #9337  
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ok, stroke with no limiters and assembled, I guess that makes sense
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Old 09-11-2013 | 08:23 PM
  #9338  
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
Those look a little excessive. Those type of o-rings are used a lot in automotive applications, and their hardness is probably going to be too much for RC situations.

I love the Reflex Racing o-rings. Super smooth and seal really well.

$3 for 8 o-rings

http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-3mm-...cs_p_1208.html
Maybe, but $3 for 8 vs $3 for 100...

How soft are the reflex orings vs AE ones?
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Old 09-11-2013 | 11:21 PM
  #9339  
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Shock Piston Marathon


1st learned best not to mix shaped pistons with flat .

use one or the other keeping the cars shock performance balance & equal...


Started with the standard 2 x 1.6 flat , 35 w front , 30 w rear

They feel very reactive & responsive , car rolls quicker & faster.

Then our traction came up , the 1.6 became too planted and the car rolled hard in the turns..

solution

switched to 1.7 x 2 flat , 40w front , 37.5w rear

1.7 feel very stable , easier to drive , more forgiving..
The heavier oil slow down the roll , pistons add a bit more grip..

Works so good I'm hating
changing , but Lol gona do just that ..

Everyone around here even agrees the flat 1.7 pistons are a favorite of their's .

Now trying as my Ae Team mates are doing & suggesting ....


Front

1.4 x 3 shaped , 35w

Rear

1.6 x 2 shaped 32.5w

Will see how they really perform on Fridays club race

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 09-11-2013 at 11:35 PM.
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Old 09-11-2013 | 11:52 PM
  #9340  
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Wild cherry

I may not say much on these forums, but I want to thank you for all the clearly written test data that even a idiot like me can follow

So a big thank you

Ed
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Old 09-12-2013 | 12:08 AM
  #9341  
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Feel like showing off my baby
Check her out...

Edit:KFactory bits
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Old 09-12-2013 | 12:22 AM
  #9342  
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Edwin
TY

trying .....

Mass knowledge can be shared & this threads creditability soar's if we work like a team .....
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Old 09-12-2013 | 01:52 AM
  #9343  
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Default B4 front sway bar

I know this is a bit unusual but does anybody know of a company that makes a front sway bay setup for the B4, B4.1 or B4.2?
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Old 09-12-2013 | 04:50 AM
  #9344  
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Originally Posted by fatbear
I know this is a bit unusual but does anybody know of a company that makes a front sway bay setup for the B4, B4.1 or B4.2?
Jconcepts just release one.
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Old 09-12-2013 | 04:52 AM
  #9345  
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I wonder if you could make the JConcepts one work on the front: http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=696

Maybe use the rear bars on the front mount to clear the shocks? Not seen this before, just a thought.
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