Check the slipper ,if it's too tight you can strip the gear.

If using three pads you should about 3 to 4 mm of thread showing above the lock nut.

.

.

Yellow pad is all I will use..

Nothing better available, have made my own garo was not impressed

yeah that what i was thinking about sorry for that confusing there.

WC,

can you look this over and "Red Ink" it and let me know anything I might want to change up. I haven't ran in a "while". The track is outside, med/low traction, 1/8 scale sized track, dusty, some spots loamy.

thanks.

I thought the stock pads sucked (in ALL of my Associated vehicles that is). Pads would glaze constantly and even after cleaning would not hold a consistent setting. They would fade terribly in a single heat. I "bought" the REAL GARODISCS from Mantis (didn't "make my own ") for all of my Associated vehicles and I tell you they're the cat's ass. Like the popular countertop rotisserie on the infomercials, just set it and forget it . No more adjusting them every heat. They do exactly what Mantis claims they do. Made the biggest difference in my FT SC10 4x4 with a Tekin Pro4 4600. Take an opinion from someone who actually tried and now continues to use the product you're asking about, not someone who tried their own "homemade" version of them. The Garos are a great performance upgrade for a small price .

I am new to the SC10 4X4. Mine seems to have a clicking, or skipping, sound on heavy acceleration. Slipper is slipping as you can hear the motor rev a bit before it takes off. I pulled my rear Trans apart to check the idler gear and it is fine. Belt seems tight, any tighter I would be afraid of excessive drag. Motor to spur mesh is good. My front clicker is tight, no clicking during braking. Anyone else experience this?
I did not check my front Trans. I checked the rear because I read on this forum for someone having a problem with the rear idler gear. Figured I would give it a look. But I think that will be my next step.

what kind of shimming does your diffs have?

I just had that issue. It turned out the front tensioner pulley bearing broke. The drag was on that and making something click. I got the STR pulleys now. Maybe check that. I think maybe I put it on backwards. Bearing was on wrong side.

Here, maybe this might explain it better. This is how it is supposed to go. I had the pulley on with the bearing facing out. Worth a look.

The only time I had problems with idler gears is when I put the diffs in backwards. This also led to diff screws loosening. I would get into the book and check that out. I think they both go in with screws facing left. Check the manual though.

Hoosier
You tell me , how is your set - up working for you ?


Brian ,can be just the wrong screw holding the front tower.

Check the top two screws, if too long you can push into the gear box and rub the middle gear.
Not saying this is the problem , but it could be.
Other wise clicking could be one of the diff's spider gears stripping.

also check the screws for front gear case , tighten one down to hard and it can rub the front pulley.

Thanks guys! Looks to be my front diff. Shims? What ever the build instructions said is what I did. I only have one race day on this so looks like I will have to learn gear diff's. This is my first Race R/C with gear diff's.

Are these shims AE, or is there better? A kit with different thickness shims?

They were so nice and smooth when I built them.

.

I was just wondering if you see anything in your opinion that is just wrong/out of place in a general way. I know setups are personal to a driver and one thing can work for you and be terrible for me. Have been out of the hobby for about a year and I know Team Associated has a lot of mods and testing that if you are out for a while they can get you behind in your "homework". So, yeah.

I have been chatting with Cain. I think he has convinced me of trying the M2C rear D plate. Anything you might add/subtract?