Team Associated B4.2 Thread
#8716
I understand that BUT, my plate is flawless outside of the screw holes stripping out. I inspected it and the alloy feels a bit soft to me so that's what I'm leaning towards as being the culprit.
I have the stock Plate on now but just shot Avid an E-mail. let's see what they say.
I have the stock Plate on now but just shot Avid an E-mail. let's see what they say.
#8719
Hideeho
While were talking about new products failing...
I installed a full set of the JC ball cups, including the angles ones to clear the rear shocks. I had heard they popped on easily, so I wasn't terribly surprised when they were. I used the square ones on the outside rear camber links & both inside & outside front camber links. I used the smaller round ones on the steering links. I also installed the short ones for the steering link. The plastic seems to be a rather hard (but not brittle) plastic. They looked good & had minimal flashing from the casting process.I did this install in the morning of a race day, so I didnt have time to run it before the 1st qualifier.
Our current layout has a jump onto a table top which forces a flat landing. The table top surface is on the same level as the top of the jump, which doesn't throw you too high, & is about 5'-6' in the air. If I land it slightly nose down I don't bottom even though it is a flat landing. In other words it's a pretty easy jump. Before the 1st heat I go out to run a few warm up laps & to make sure everything worked. After running 3 or 4 laps I was on comming back to the start line to get ready to start the qualifier & landed completely flat for the 1st time. To my surprise the car bottoms HARD & stays there. When the marshal picks it up BOTH rear wheels flop out. Both rear inner ball cups (the angled ones) had popped off. I put them back on (after asking for a minutes grace
) & proccede with the race. During the race I popped 2 more ball cups, both rear inner cups.
Needless to say, by the 2nd heat I had RPM cups back on the car. Enough said!
While were talking about new products failing...
I installed a full set of the JC ball cups, including the angles ones to clear the rear shocks. I had heard they popped on easily, so I wasn't terribly surprised when they were. I used the square ones on the outside rear camber links & both inside & outside front camber links. I used the smaller round ones on the steering links. I also installed the short ones for the steering link. The plastic seems to be a rather hard (but not brittle) plastic. They looked good & had minimal flashing from the casting process.I did this install in the morning of a race day, so I didnt have time to run it before the 1st qualifier.
Our current layout has a jump onto a table top which forces a flat landing. The table top surface is on the same level as the top of the jump, which doesn't throw you too high, & is about 5'-6' in the air. If I land it slightly nose down I don't bottom even though it is a flat landing. In other words it's a pretty easy jump. Before the 1st heat I go out to run a few warm up laps & to make sure everything worked. After running 3 or 4 laps I was on comming back to the start line to get ready to start the qualifier & landed completely flat for the 1st time. To my surprise the car bottoms HARD & stays there. When the marshal picks it up BOTH rear wheels flop out. Both rear inner ball cups (the angled ones) had popped off. I put them back on (after asking for a minutes grace
) & proccede with the race. During the race I popped 2 more ball cups, both rear inner cups.Needless to say, by the 2nd heat I had RPM cups back on the car. Enough said!
#8721
This makes me sad, but in all honesty. I have been unimpressed with JC products. Their finnisher bodies are nice, but its a body... I dislike their wheels, tires and hexes immensely. I am on my last set of DD's and then I am done with JC tires. I am sad to hear about these cup issues. I guess I will stick to the rpm's for a while. I have heard a few people locally having issues with the JC cups also. I am sure some people in here are sponsored by JC and will come defend them and that is fine, but I dont like anything but the bodies ATM.
#8722
Hideeho
While were talking about new products failing...
I installed a full set of the JC ball cups, including the angles ones to clear the rear shocks. I had heard they popped on easily, so I wasn't terribly surprised when they were. I used the square ones on the outside rear camber links & both inside & outside front camber links. I used the smaller round ones on the steering links. I also installed the short ones for the steering link. The plastic seems to be a rather hard (but not brittle) plastic. They looked good & had minimal flashing from the casting process.I did this install in the morning of a race day, so I didnt have time to run it before the 1st qualifier.
Our current layout has a jump onto a table top which forces a flat landing. The table top surface is on the same level as the top of the jump, which doesn't throw you too high, & is about 5'-6' in the air. If I land it slightly nose down I don't bottom even though it is a flat landing. In other words it's a pretty easy jump. Before the 1st heat I go out to run a few warm up laps & to make sure everything worked. After running 3 or 4 laps I was on comming back to the start line to get ready to start the qualifier & landed completely flat for the 1st time. To my surprise the car bottoms HARD & stays there. When the marshal picks it up BOTH rear wheels flop out. Both rear inner ball cups (the angled ones) had popped off. I put them back on (after asking for a minutes grace
) & proccede with the race. During the race I popped 2 more ball cups, both rear inner cups.
Needless to say, by the 2nd heat I had RPM cups back on the car. Enough said!
While were talking about new products failing...
I installed a full set of the JC ball cups, including the angles ones to clear the rear shocks. I had heard they popped on easily, so I wasn't terribly surprised when they were. I used the square ones on the outside rear camber links & both inside & outside front camber links. I used the smaller round ones on the steering links. I also installed the short ones for the steering link. The plastic seems to be a rather hard (but not brittle) plastic. They looked good & had minimal flashing from the casting process.I did this install in the morning of a race day, so I didnt have time to run it before the 1st qualifier.
Our current layout has a jump onto a table top which forces a flat landing. The table top surface is on the same level as the top of the jump, which doesn't throw you too high, & is about 5'-6' in the air. If I land it slightly nose down I don't bottom even though it is a flat landing. In other words it's a pretty easy jump. Before the 1st heat I go out to run a few warm up laps & to make sure everything worked. After running 3 or 4 laps I was on comming back to the start line to get ready to start the qualifier & landed completely flat for the 1st time. To my surprise the car bottoms HARD & stays there. When the marshal picks it up BOTH rear wheels flop out. Both rear inner ball cups (the angled ones) had popped off. I put them back on (after asking for a minutes grace
) & proccede with the race. During the race I popped 2 more ball cups, both rear inner cups.Needless to say, by the 2nd heat I had RPM cups back on the car. Enough said!
#8723
LOL Waflet. Marketing is a very powerful sales tool.
I had someone tell me the Dubro Ball Links were utter junk when i know the opposite to be fact being as I used them on all my cars in my past RC life and I still have them on my 25+ year old RC10. Anyhow it was on a friends DEX410 and this guy goes over to his car and says I'll show you how easy they pop off and then proceeds to try and prove his notion correct, only to be met with the most resistance he's likely ever seen from any link and then he flexes his muscle as hard as he could until he finally popped it off and followed it up with a "See?!!?, Told ya so", meanwhile his finger is marred and bruised and he's starting to sweat quite a bit. :facepalm: LOL
I'm going to pick up a bunch of Ball Links and be done with ball cups altogether on all my cars.
I had someone tell me the Dubro Ball Links were utter junk when i know the opposite to be fact being as I used them on all my cars in my past RC life and I still have them on my 25+ year old RC10. Anyhow it was on a friends DEX410 and this guy goes over to his car and says I'll show you how easy they pop off and then proceeds to try and prove his notion correct, only to be met with the most resistance he's likely ever seen from any link and then he flexes his muscle as hard as he could until he finally popped it off and followed it up with a "See?!!?, Told ya so", meanwhile his finger is marred and bruised and he's starting to sweat quite a bit. :facepalm: LOL
I'm going to pick up a bunch of Ball Links and be done with ball cups altogether on all my cars.
#8725
I have no desire to run the dubro. Not saying they dont work, but I just dislike that style is all. Plus to many binding issues from back in the day with full droop. you would need a coned washer to allow clearance, imo.
#8726
This makes me sad, but in all honesty. I have been unimpressed with JC products. Their finnisher bodies are nice, but its a body... I dislike their wheels, tires and hexes immensely. I am on my last set of DD's and then I am done with JC tires. I am sad to hear about these cup issues. I guess I will stick to the rpm's for a while. I have heard a few people locally having issues with the JC cups also. I am sure some people in here are sponsored by JC and will come defend them and that is fine, but I dont like anything but the bodies ATM.
I'm the opposite. I really like JC stuff. I run their wheels, tires (but I do run what ever works best for the track, not always JC), hexes, axles, & when they come back in stock I will be getting their CF ackerman bar. I do highly recommend their other products, but their ballcups are terrible.
#8727
This makes me sad, but in all honesty. I have been unimpressed with JC products. Their finnisher bodies are nice, but its a body... I dislike their wheels, tires and hexes immensely. I am on my last set of DD's and then I am done with JC tires. I am sad to hear about these cup issues. I guess I will stick to the rpm's for a while. I have heard a few people locally having issues with the JC cups also. I am sure some people in here are sponsored by JC and will come defend them and that is fine, but I dont like anything but the bodies ATM.
As for their wheels, at least they are offering something outside from the already dull, boring and personality-less dish style wheels. Tires are nice but there are plenty of options out there so people have plenty to choose from.
For me, I prefer AKA and Avid wheels personally as they feel of better quality, though we could use more colors and of course black wheels as nothing looks so mean.
#8728
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 398
From: Hamburg
I am using the rpm ballcups and i am not really sure if i should like them or hate them. They never popped off during a race, but the resistance of the threads is so high that it's nearly impossible to setup camber. As soon as i turn them, they will pop of.
#8729
Hideeho
I use both. Primarily the short though. I use the long on the rear camber links because they offer a bit more coverage on the rare occasion when I go out on the hub tower. The shorts are fine for 99.9% of the time.
I use both. Primarily the short though. I use the long on the rear camber links because they offer a bit more coverage on the rare occasion when I go out on the hub tower. The shorts are fine for 99.9% of the time.
#8730
The hexes always fell of or stripped out for me. The 2wd buggy tires are a weird blue white matte color, plus I dislike dished wheels. The tires suck, then work for 2-3 weeks then they are done. IMO my tires "look" fine, but they are done at 90% tread. Proline holeshots just last way longer and are more consistent on my track. Impacts also have a very short life span. I used to hate prolines because the rubber was too soft and didnt last long, but even though I burn up more of the tread, they hold the bite longer. IMO avid hexes are the best for the B4 line. They bite hard, stay nice looking forever and have a great fit. I am not saying everything JC is crap, but I have yet to own anything I like. The axles look good, but the ae axles are fine. I have never had issues with them.



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