Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Tekno SCT410 Thread >

Tekno SCT410 Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree17Likes

Tekno SCT410 Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-26-2013 | 09:26 AM
  #14026  
Zerodefect's Avatar
Tech Champion
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,032
From: Columbus, OH
Default

Originally Posted by Mizchief
Does it stay low to the servo so you still have a level link or do you have to shim up on the steering rack side?
It doesn't have to be level.
Zerodefect is offline  
Old 08-26-2013 | 09:37 AM
  #14027  
Graham11's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
 
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,044
From: Philadelphia, PA
Default

Originally Posted by Fabulous
You have to shim 3mm on steering rack side to get it level.
Are we all talking about the same thing, the new Tekno aluminum servo horn? the link mounts above the horn and I did not have to shim anything. you can read about it here:

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5252-...rn-24t-spline/
Graham11 is offline  
Old 08-26-2013 | 09:41 AM
  #14028  
Bernard_Jr's Avatar
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 750
From: Jacksonville, Fl
Default

Originally Posted by Graham11
Are we all talking about the same thing, the new Tekno aluminum servo horn? Because the link mounts below the horn and I did not have to shim anything. you can read about it here:

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5252-...rn-24t-spline/
I don't think you have to shim anything either but the link does mount above the arm. The horn lowers the mounting point closer to the servo housing. I could take a photo later if necessary.
Bernard_Jr is offline  
Old 08-26-2013 | 09:46 AM
  #14029  
Graham11's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
 
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,044
From: Philadelphia, PA
Default

Originally Posted by Bernard_Jr
I don't think you have to shim anything either but the link does mount above the arm. The horn lowers the mounting point closer to the servo housing. I could take a photo later if necessary.
Yes sorry, I am mixing my words, the link does mount on top of the arm but you do not need shims.
Graham11 is offline  
Old 08-26-2013 | 11:33 AM
  #14030  
xDIEGOx's Avatar
Tech Regular
iTrader: (36)
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 397
From: San Diego, CA
Default

Well after selling all of my rigs and taking a year off from the hobby, I placed an order for the SCT410. It'll be powered by a Pro4 HD 4300 and a RX8 Gen 2. This will be my first kit build. Any tips to make the build go smooth? I'm so stoked to get back in the game!
xDIEGOx is offline  
Old 08-26-2013 | 12:13 PM
  #14031  
XRated SCT's Avatar
Tech Master
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,065
From: SanDiego
Default

Originally Posted by xDIEGOx
Well after selling all of my rigs and taking a year off from the hobby, I placed an order for the SCT410. It'll be powered by a Pro4 HD 4300 and a RX8 Gen 2. This will be my first kit build. Any tips to make the build go smooth? I'm so stoked to get back in the game!
this build is smooth and easy, I got some MIP thorp drivers which made it easier, check first page
XRated SCT is offline  
Old 08-26-2013 | 12:28 PM
  #14032  
Cain's Avatar
Tech Legend
iTrader: (304)
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 35,029
From: West Fargo, North Dakota
Default

Originally Posted by XRated SCT
this build is smooth and easy, I got some MIP thorp drivers which made it easier, check first page
would also recommend NOT using a ball driver on the mount mount screws so you can torque them down without stripping.
Cain is offline  
Old 08-26-2013 | 12:36 PM
  #14033  
ArmySSG's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 172
From: Fort Stewart
Default

@Slotmachine.. when you say thicker fluid in the rear will cause no steering ability what's too thick? I'm currently running 7/7/5 so will this mean that as I enter turns I will consistently spin out?
ArmySSG is offline  
Old 08-26-2013 | 12:48 PM
  #14034  
RCManiac007's Avatar
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (86)
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 933
From: Bradenton Florida
Default

Hey guys, just ran my sct410 for the first time yesterday and really liked it. I already put aluminum hexes on it plus an aluminum rear toe block. I am doing a battery tray mod tonight and want to know if there are any other necessary/relavent mods that need to be done. And yes I have read through the thread for hours.....

Also I was running very hot on the esc (it thermaled) but the motor was perfect. I run an Orion r10 pro 160A esc with the hobbywing 3656 4700kv motor with a 14t pinion. I assumed this esc would work well being a 160A. Was I wrong? Was I under geared?

Last edited by RCManiac007; 08-26-2013 at 01:47 PM.
RCManiac007 is offline  
Old 08-26-2013 | 12:48 PM
  #14035  
colormegone's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 207
From: Lake Oconee
Default

Originally Posted by ArmySSG
By the time I sold my Slash the only thing made by traxxas that was left was the diffs and maybe body posts. It was tricked out to the maxx and I still sucked really bad driving. WIth this Tekno I dropped my average lap times from 45-47s to 34-33s consistently! I wouldn't even move the battery tray back I'd focus on your electronics, camber, ride height etc, let the battery mod be the last change u have to make only because your really concerned about weight distribution..
I haven't had a 2wd slash in yrs and it was all but stock too.. No matter what you did the thing was still junk for racing. I run a SC10 in two wheel drive now a days..
I like being able to move the battery a bit to help with tuning so I'll see how it goes once I run this thing. Still have to pick a motor and servo for it and wait for the weather to cool down
colormegone is offline  
Old 08-26-2013 | 01:50 PM
  #14036  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 77
From: South Texas
Default Looking for setup tips

Could use some setup ideas for ROAR Regional at "the biggest track in North America" aka Thornhill in Hutto, Texas. The track is ginormous. I've been once, and struggled with only a couple of hours to practice. I remember it's big and fast. Traction is pretty good. Can get a little dusty on top. A good size triple; big table top, signature "The Dirt" step up with brickyard run up. There are a number of turns where I feel some drifting would help... my truck turns; it doesn't drift ;-). My local track just changed layouts. It's tight, bumpy and dusty... Both cars seem ass happy... so I don't feel like I'm starting with a good tune anyway. Taking both SCT410 and EB48.

I think I'm hoping for insight on roll center, shock position, etc., but I have plenty of pistons, springs and oils as well.

SCT410 has as of today...
Motor/ESC - HW SCT-Pro+4k(16t)
Shocks - RCShox dual-stage - Front/Green/425 Rear/Orange/375
Diffs - 7f/10c/3r <-- down from 5r looking for better high speed cornering
Options - 17mm hexes, lightened outdrives, chassis, shock towers, new rear diff and straight gears

EB48
Motor/ESC - Tekin RX8+2050(17t)
Shocks - Tekno 10x1.1 - Front/Yellow/425 Rear/Red/325
Diffs - 7f/10c/5r

Hope this is enough detail to solicit some ideas. Thanks.
Boss Ross is offline  
Old 08-26-2013 | 02:24 PM
  #14037  
nanoverse's Avatar
Tech Addict
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 650
Default

Originally Posted by RCManiac007
Hey guys, just ran my sct410 for the first time yesterday and really liked it. I already put aluminum hexes on it plus an aluminum rear toe block. I am doing a battery tray mod tonight and want to know if there are any other necessary/relavent mods that need to be done. And yes I have read through the thread for hours.....

Also I was running very hot on the esc (it thermaled) but the motor was perfect. I run an Orion r10 pro 160A esc with the hobbywing 3656 4700kv motor with a 14t pinion. I assumed this esc would work well being a 160A. Was I wrong? Was I under geared?
Do you have the 4-pole firmware?
nanoverse is offline  
Old 08-26-2013 | 02:32 PM
  #14038  
fq06's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 5,646
From: Los Angeles
Default

Originally Posted by RCManiac007
Hey guys, just ran my sct410 for the first time yesterday and really liked it. I already put aluminum hexes on it plus an aluminum rear toe block. I am doing a battery tray mod tonight and want to know if there are any other necessary/relavent mods that need to be done. And yes I have read through the thread for hours.....

Also I was running very hot on the esc (it thermaled) but the motor was perfect. I run an Orion r10 pro 160A esc with the hobbywing 3656 4700kv motor with a 14t pinion. I assumed this esc would work well being a 160A. Was I wrong? Was I under geared?
14t is too small and usually a motor that's cool and ESC hot is an indicator that your under geared. I have that same motor and used the biggest pinion from my Mugen... 15t and it was too small even for an indoor track. I would say try a 16t and see how it goes.
fq06 is offline  
Old 08-26-2013 | 02:39 PM
  #14039  
fq06's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 5,646
From: Los Angeles
Default

Thanx for the tips Cain & Slotmachine. I will try both directions.
Makes sense for thicker fluid though as tightening a ball diff will calm down the rear end entering a turn.
fq06 is offline  
Old 08-26-2013 | 02:43 PM
  #14040  
jhautz's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (86)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,264
Default

Originally Posted by fq06
14t is too small and usually a motor that's cool and ESC hot is an indicator that your under geared. I have that same motor and used the biggest pinion from my Mugen... 15t and it was too small even for an indoor track. I would say try a 16t and see how it goes.
Usually when you are under geared the motor runs hot and the ESC runs cool.

14T seems about right to me. I run a 16T on a large outdoor track with the 4000kv motor and have plenty of top end. 14T on the 4700 would be about the same top end.
jhautz is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.